Greetings!

I apologize in advance for this long post.

I'm about to embark on a rotor and pad replacement on my 2004 F-150 SCAB 2WD, 5.4L V-8, HD payload (7-lug hubs). I am experiencing the vibration and pulsating sensation that other people have come across. I've had the rotors replaced once per TSB 05-6-21, which I've learned has been superceded by TSB 05-21-19. At this point I'm going to do the fronts because that seems to be where the problem is, then if all goes well I'll do the rears. I've never done a brake job/rotor job before, so I'm a little hesitant, but I'm fairly mechanically inclined, and after reading through lots of posts here and on other forums, I think it's something I can handle.

A few questions:

(1) As far as I can tell, the rotors for these 2WD trucks are a one-piece assembly. Fordparts.com has them for $177.33 (PN 5L3Z-1102-BA). I plan on getting either some Brembos or Powerslots, not the crappy OEMs that got me to where I am. It looks like I can get Powerslots at Tirerack for $160 per rotor (PN 8779PSL and PSR). And will these aftermarket rotor assemblies be of the one-piece variety?
(2) Regarding pads, I'm thinking of getting Hawk LTS pads. Others have mentioned they are happy with them. When you buy them, do you get 2 or 4 pads in a box (IOW, pads for one wheel or two)? I know, stupid question! Looks like Pep Boys has them for $80, and the picture shows 4 pads.
(3) I have learned that the large spindle nut must be removed, discarded, and replaced with a new one (which I've found at Fordparts.com for about $14 ea). The torque on that thing is very high - like 295 ft-lb! Have people had problems getting it off or back on? Cheater bar?
(4) It looks like there is a castle nut and some cotter pins that go on after the spindle nut - do those need to be removed and replaced also? If so, anybody know the part numbers and torques for those?
(5) What type/brands of anti-seize, brake cleaner, high-temp grease, and anti-squeak goop would you recommend for cleaning, lubing slide bolts, etc.?
(6) Will it be necessary to bleed the brake system? I've read that you do, and that you don't need to. Any harm in not doing it (pedal mushiness, death)?

I better stop now. I'm thinking too much. I gotta get the parts together and a few more tools (like that 36mm socket for the spindle nut), but I wanted to gather as much info as possible before I get started. Thanks in advance for any tips, advice, and suggestions!

 

Bump

 

I went with Napa's Ultra Premium rotors. And yes they are expensive because they are an integrated hub & rotor assembly, including the bearing. I think I paid just over $100 for each of them.

I went with Bendix TitaniuMetallic pads. They are a premium semi-metallic pad. They stop excellent, and noise is almost non-existant. However, dusting continues to be problematic, just as with OEM pads.

Do you have an impact gun? If so, it makes it real easy. If not, then a cheater bar would probably be best. As for installing it, my torque wrench only goes up to 250 ft-lbs. So I torqued it to 250 ft-lbs, then gave it an extra tug. Just be sure to follow Ford's workshop manual when installing the new nut, as there is a certain procedure (torque to certain ft-lb, rotate rotor so many times, torque again to certain ft-lb).

The retainer is re-usable, but you do need a new cotter pin.

Use just about any brake cleaner that your parts store carries. The Bendix pads come with anti-squeel compound. I don't use anti-seize on my brakes.

Bleeding the brakes is not necessary, unless you do something you shouldn't... Like don't disconnect any brake lines. Make sure the piston doesn't come out of the caliper (don't do something stupid like step on the brake pedal when the caliper is not on the rotor)... Replacing rotors and pads do not require bleeding the system.



BTW, welcome to the site!!!

 

Excellent post, bamorris! Thanks!

 

Thanks for the response, bamorris! Very helpful.

I don't have an impact wrench, but a friend might have one that I can borrow.

Just so I'm clear, the rotor assembly has the lug studs protruding out, right?

 

Correct.

 

 

Cool! Thanks a lot for picture.

Does the spindle nut require a special socket (other than the honkin' 36 mm size)?

 

It has to be a 'deep' socket... Standard-depth socket is too shallow. I used an impact socket...

 

It's looking more and more like I need to get me an impact wrench and some sockets. Hey, an excuse to buy a kick-*** tool!

 

well, it's our turn for this.

i called the local dealer. they said they can not turn the rotors on this truck, either on or off. They actually recommended aftermarket rotors. I read where others have had their rotors turned by the dealer, but mine won't do it. then i read some more that a couple peoples started warping pretty quick after.

so i am going to get some aftermarket from rotorpros. Sounds like i will be giving the torque wrench a little extra turn, since it doesn't go to 295! And for $12-15 i will replace the nuts too, hopefully i can save mine during the retorquiing!

this site is GREAT for help. with people including part numbers and such, it is very easy to get all the parts needed. So a special thanks for you guys out there trying it for the first time! Saves those of us with limited time and money!!