A while back, a member asked me about what anti seize to use on 3V spark plugs. Ford calls for a high temperature nickel anti seize, part number XL-2, over the more common graphite/copper based anti seize compounds like Permatex's 80078 (which is what I originally used when I replaced my plugs at 27K miles).

There's a 1000 degree difference between the two; the nickel anti seize protects up to about 2600 degrees F, the graphite stuff up to 1600.

As I mentioned earlier, when I replaced my plugs I used graphite/copper anti seize mainly because at the time, spark plugs breaking off in these engines wasn't a well known or acknowledged problem at Ford, and I didn't have any nickel anti seize on hand. I first heard all the hubbub about these plugs through F150online, not Ford.

Fast forward to 60K miles on my engine. I figured I'd pull a couple plugs and see how they came out. They came out hard...almost like there was no anti seize or lube on them at all. Made all kinds of scary noises, I thought for sure one was gonna break. When I finally did get a couple plugs out, there was practically no trace of anti seize on them - I guess it must have burned off or something in the heat of the combustion chamber. For whatever it's worth, my truck sees about 90% highway miles daily, little to no stop and go traffic, always gets up to operating temp and is meticulously maintained.

So, if any of y'all replaced your plugs and used graphite/copper based anti seize, be forewarned - treat removing those plugs just as if you were pulling them for the first time. Get the engine warm, loosen 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and spray some good penetrating oil down in there and let them sit for 10 minutes or so. I honestly don't know if the nickel anti seize will make a big difference, but I guess I'll find out in another 30K miles when I check/replace them again.

 

Thanks, Q.

Luckily, I used the Ford stuff, and, like you will discover how effective it was in another 20K or so.


MGD

 

Thanks for the tip. I used some 2,400 F graphite anti-seize at 15k miles. I'll probably replace the plugs at 30k and anti-seize them with the Ford stuff.

Hopefully, they didn't put anything on the plugs from the factory, because they were dry when I took them out.

 

Another note of caution, only break them loose 1/8 turn and use the Kroil penetrating oil. And personally I would let the penetrating oil soak for as long as possible, like break them loose and spray them at night then try removing them the next morning.

 

I used the Permatex 1333AR. It’s a blend of aluminum, copper and graphite and its rated 1600°. I originally changed them at 25,776K and now have about18K on the news ones.

I hear tell there is a new plug for the 3-valves that's been R&D and approved by TP. They’re one-piece construction and the gap is adjustable

 

Hi JP;

Long time no 'see'...

If you want to stay with Permatex, they have the proper stuff as well - #77124 - Hi-temp Nickel - good to 2400 deg F.

Don't use that other chit.

The plugs - yes they are Brisk Racing plugs - and it's what I'm ordering from them to replace mine @ next plug change.


MGD

 

Brisks have been out for some time now...Not a Troyer only product as some here have been lead to believe...

 

Hi Marc;

Yes, I know - I've seen the other posts.

It's primarily a confidence thing for me - as you know TP tests everything throroughly, and I was looking for an alternate plug that would work in a stock 5.4 3V. So as timing would have it, this announcement coincided with my needs.

I don't think there is any intention to mislead here.

Thanks.

 

Has anyone on here had any experience running the Brisk plugs on a NA 3v 5.4 F150?

 

i have done 11 sets of plugs now and have yet to break one by doing it as per the TSB. most of the trucks had around 90,000 and the plugs have never been pulled previously. dont be shy to use LOTS of kroil. i usually blow the cylinders out with compressed air when the plugs are out to blast most of the excees out and change the oil afterwards. if any seem really hard just keep threading in and out untill they come all the way. the trick is do the drivers side first with the engine WARM not hot. it also doesnt hurt to keep the block heater plugged in while working which I usually do. then once that side is done start the truck and warm it up again. then remove the pcm and bracket and do the passenger side.

 

Just to bring up a point in regards to Brisk plugs, I've searched the website and they do not list any new plug info on 2004 (new 3V) engine. They do have ones for supercharged version, which isnt the same as natually aspired. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong, it's time for me to get some new plugs for my 5.4 engine. Thanx.