Everything went very well and I used the National RP6408 repair kits, which were $29.00 each. I also was loaned the bearing removal tool from the parts store, which made removing the old bearings a simple chore.

I got the replacement pinion shaft lock bolt at the second dealership I stopped at for $2.92. The first dealer told me I could only get the bolt by buying the pinion shaft also, for a total of $92.00. Of course, this was the same dealership which rounded off the bolt to begin with!

The truck runs SO quiet now I couldn't believe it. I really had gotten used to the noise from the bad bearing(s) over the last year and would have never given it a thought except for finding this How To.

Again, thanks for the original post and pictures, made things very easy!

 

I have just bstarted to change rear seals in 1997 F150 RWD 4.6 triton and when i removed the diff cover i have noticed what appears to be a shiny steel piece which looks like a letter N..... there are 2 of them..one each side and i can see what appears to be a spring type essembly which seems to push the spiders into place..it would seem i have to remove both of these odd things to be able to get the right axle pushed in so as to remove the c clip..but my concern is over what these springs do and would it move my spiders out of sequence..before i remove any more..i.e the pinion shaft bolt and then the c clip from the axle should i remove this piece as well..could really appreciate a fast reply as i need to get her up and running within a few hours..thanks guys.

 

its ok...panic over...i stopped thinking ...lol....i went and pushed the axle in then got c clip off......dummy .....put to screw things up...i went to put in new seals and the muppet gave me the wrong ones..so have to swap in morning......in the mean time i can do lots of cleaning and replace brake shoes

 

Question: Do you really need to remove the rotors from the axle? Can you just remove them together without taking them apart?

 

Question: Do you really need to separate the rotor from the axle if you are just going to replace seals and wheel bearings? Can you just remove them together?

 

Well, you already have the lug nuts off because you removed the tire. The caliper had to come off in order to remove the axle. I don't think there is really any reason of having to remove the rotor but I really don't see why you would not.

If the seal was leaking, you will want to remove the rotor and clean all of the axle grease off which might be on the rotor and the hub of the axle.

 

Anyone ever use the lucas oil diff fluid that clames to be limited slip compatible with no friction modifier additive needed?

 

Just did mine today. I got axles out and seals out in 30 minutes, if seals was all your were doing this is a 45 minute job (minus the hour needed to let rtv try) But I spent more than an hour getting the old bearing out and new one in, this was mainly because all the parts to my schools puller are scattered about.

The real challenge was pressing the new bearing. To get it started you need to somehow hit the whole bearing at once, which you cant do with the old bearing. I ended up having a teacher hold a 1/2" metal plate over the bearing while I hit it with a sledge.

Be aware: If using a repair bearing it stops FLUSH with the axle tube, I spent another 30 minutes wondering why it wouldn't go further.

All in all with this guide and proper tools this job shouldn't take more than 1.5 hours other than the hour for rtv

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! This is a fantastic how-to. The photos were key.

My 2001 F-150 S-Crew with 162k had a rumbling in the rear which I narrowed to the rear bearings. Had absolutely no problems following this guide although I had never opened a diff or pulled axles before.

Everything went well and I'm happy to report the rumbling & vibration are gone. Took about 2.5 hrs including a run to Adv Auto to exchange the 9.75 oil seals for the 8.8's needed.

BTW, my '01 calls for 5.5 pints/2.75 qts lube. Used Mobile1 75w 140 LS and did not add additional friction modifier. Can add it later if there is any cornering chatter.

Total cost was $113 (20% entire order) including diff gasket & blue LockTite. Saved a bundle no doubt.

 

Just finished this job with my 2002 F-150. I have it all buttoned up and waiting for fluid. I hope I did everything right. The only issue I had was getting one axle back in and pushed in enough to get the clips on. Lol. You have to make sure the ebrake adjustment or bracket goes BETWEEN the stud bolts or you won't be able to push it back in all the way lol. I simply pulled the axle out to clear the gears and turned it a bit to clear teh studs.

As soon as I got the axle clips off and the axles pushed out, I put the pinion shaft in and bolted it down to prevent anything getting out of whack.

Cool write up. I had no reason to replace my bearings, but with seals and bearings with 225,000 miles, I figured, why the hell NOT replace them. They weren't bad or sloppy...maybe a little sloppy, but not much to worry about. The new National Bearings have 2 more rollers than the ford and they have no 'cage'. The axles are a little tighter in there I guess. Anyway, gonna fill it up with Royal Purple and hope I didn't screw something up. The axles had a little groove worn in them from the seals, but I believe the new seals sit a little outside of that spot, so they should be fine.

Thanks for the write up! Local shop wanted $500 + tax.

 

Thanks for the step by step instructions. Made the process much easier

 

Is there any way possible to tell whether my ring gear is 8.8" or 9.75" without taking it all apart? I'd like to order the parts BEFORE I take it apart.

 

just wanted to say was a great right up, thanks !

 

Im replacing my axle bearings and seals on rear of 2010 f150 while I change diff bearings. The inner axle has some pitting/scratches where the bearing seats. Is this a huge issue? Should I run some 320 grit sandpaper on there? Axle shafts look ok.