That's just a regular brake line which you can match up at your local parts store for around $5 (It'll be straight and you bend it). There's a bender you can buy as well which is cheap but I find it easier to bend them to form with hand. Whoever said you only have to bleed if the master cylinder ran dry is completely wrong. If there's fluid coming out then there's air going in. When you do bleed the brakes start with the one furthest from the master cylinder and work your way towards it. If you don't have someone with you then you can gravity bleed them but usually takes about an hour and doesn't always work (about a 50% success rate). Whereas the old school method of someone pumping and another bleeding is fool proof. So overall you're looking at a couple hours of your time and about 10-20 bucks for everything. You'll probably have to take the line up to the parts store so they can match the fitting. If it was the black hose it could get up there in price but the steel line is a nothing job.

 

actually, you are completely wrong. air coming in and fluid coming out doesn't mean it's easy to bleed properly. The master cylinder can get air bound rather easily also and be a big PITA to get fluid filled. There is a little warning note on most aftermarket master cyclinders that tells you how to properly fill and bleed them on initial install.

btw, I said ABS brake proportioning block. If that gets air into it, you are screwed. There are little bitty passageways with check ***** and it takes special tools to completely bleed it. 99% of the backyard mechanics cannot do this properly. If not done properly, your ABS WILL NOT WORK and you will get a CEL.

You are right about how to properly bleed the rest of the system though. The gravity method is useless. The only true way is to have a buddy press the pedal while you crack the bleed port.

start with the drivers front tire, then the passenger front, then the drivers rear, then the passenger rear. you'll need 2-3 bottles of brake fluid and lots of patience. about 10 pumps per brake once you get fluid out to ensure no air bubbles are in there.

 

I think you took what I said out of context. Someone said the only time you have to bleed is when the master cylinder goes dry and I said that's not the case and it's very easy to get air in the system even if the master cylinder is full. I haven't bled a ton of vehicles (40-50 maybe) but I've never ran into ABS getting in the way and nor should the original poster. You also said to start with the front but you should start from the furthest from the master cylinder and work your way towards it (unless something changed). This is the way I've always done it and haven't had one I couldn't get done yet. His situation should be a very easy bleed job. It's cool you can get all technical with an ABS proportioning block but in reality if you start the truck and the ABS light is off then this is completely irrelevant and regular bleeding will do just fine.

 

Gravity bleeding still works.

Air pockets in the ABS valve body will not disable your ABS, nor will it turn the check engine or ABS lights on (it will on a hybrid Escape/Mariner, but that's a completely different brake system).

Don't worry about bleeding the master cylinder unless you replace it.

 

Well I understand I was charged way too much but I've had a crazy week with work, a 4 hour professional certification course to prepare for that is Saturday, and way too many other things in the next week to take care of this.

I do however, appreciate everyone's help!

The next time I do run into a problem like this I will do it myself and not fork over a ton of money. However, like I said, each hour of my time is worth a ton to me this week as I'm completely over worked.

Thanks again fellas, I really appreciate all your help!

Duke

What I should have done:

Go to salvage yard or auto parts store and buy the line
Read up on how to bleed the brakes and put brake fluid back in
Buy necessary lube for brake slide pins and lube appropriately
Check pads for wear

 

I buy parts from salvage yards every now and then. And maybe it's just me, but brake parts aren't one of the things I want off a junked vehicle.