Quintin and all Ford techs: please help
#17
03-28-2007, 12:25 AM
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You should get a set of these factory manuals I got mine for about $65.00 on ebay. The only one I did not get is the wiring diagram book. I personly dont like the chilton or hanyes manuals because they dont cover everything. heres one on ebay right now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...mZ220095569333
and here is the wiring book.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...mZ220095502966
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...mZ220095569333
and here is the wiring book.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...mZ220095502966
Last edited by highridin4x4; 03-28-2007 at 12:30 AM.
#19
03-28-2007, 09:22 AM
Originally Posted by xlint1
Not sure if you read my first post, but here it is. 04 F150 XLT 5.4L 2 WD My batt. light came on when I was going to work. I drove with the light on to get a new battery hoping that was it, it wasn't. I got home and put the multimeter across the battery, it read 12.1v. So I ordered, and then replaced the alternator. I put the multimeter on it, and it's charging 14.6v. BUT the batt. light is still on!! Using my Diablo tuner diagnostics, it showed a P0622- general field terminal circuit and a P1000- OBD systems readiness test not complete. I checked the wires and all are good. I tested the wires all the way to the box mounted on the firewall and the fusible link is fine. Everything is working, so I don't think it's a fuse. Is it possible my computer got toasted since the alt. quit charging and I kept driving it? (prob. around 19 mi. with it on) Thanks
What's your voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at around 2000 RPM?
With the key on and the engine off, disconnect the connector at the alternator and check the voltage from the battery sense wire (should be the far right pin, with the locking tab on the connector facing up and the connector facing you) and ground, this should be battery voltage, give or take half a volt.
Start with this first, if all this checks okay, you've got a problem somewhere in the harness between the PCM and the alternator, or you've got a problem with the PCM itself.
#20
03-28-2007, 09:46 AM
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#21
03-28-2007, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Quintin
Okay, first thing's first, did you put a Ford or an aftermarket alternator on it?
What's your voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at around 2000 RPM?
With the key on and the engine off, disconnect the connector at the alternator and check the voltage from the battery sense wire (should be the far right pin, with the locking tab on the connector facing up and the connector facing you) and ground, this should be battery voltage, give or take half a volt.
Start with this first, if all this checks okay, you've got a problem somewhere in the harness between the PCM and the alternator, or you've got a problem with the PCM itself.
What's your voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at around 2000 RPM?
With the key on and the engine off, disconnect the connector at the alternator and check the voltage from the battery sense wire (should be the far right pin, with the locking tab on the connector facing up and the connector facing you) and ground, this should be battery voltage, give or take half a volt.
Start with this first, if all this checks okay, you've got a problem somewhere in the harness between the PCM and the alternator, or you've got a problem with the PCM itself.
Last edited by xlint1; 03-28-2007 at 11:03 PM.
#22
03-31-2007, 12:46 PM
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After doing the tsets you guys provided me with, I think my PCM is not good. The middle pin on the alt. connector to ground test will not give me an accurate, or within specs reading. Everything is working fine (except a little high idle) on the truck. Do you think I can damage something else if I keep driving it like this? I'd hate to buy a new PCM because of a light being on, if everything else is working. Your opinions please
#26
03-31-2007, 08:50 PM
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#27
03-31-2007, 11:58 PM
Originally Posted by xlint1
I'd like to just get another alt, but they aren't very cheap, and the original didn't even outlast the battery. Now I think the PCM is toast because the airbag light on the dash is now on. This is terrible, not even 59k mi!
Your original alternator failed completely, wouldn't charge. You replaced it with an aftermarket alternator that appears to be charging, but now you have unexplained charging system DTCs and a fault in the SRS system.
So far, it seems like the only variable before then and now was the alternator.
An alternator is an electrical component, they can and do fail at any mileage they full and damn well feel like it regardless of who makes it.
Ditch the Autozone alternator, then come back. Or keep running around in circles, the choice is yours.
#28
04-01-2007, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Quintin
Okay, first thing's first, did you put a Ford or an aftermarket alternator on it?
What's your voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at around 2000 RPM?
With the key on and the engine off, disconnect the connector at the alternator and check the voltage from the battery sense wire (should be the far right pin, with the locking tab on the connector facing up and the connector facing you) and ground, this should be battery voltage, give or take half a volt.
Start with this first, if all this checks okay, you've got a problem somewhere in the harness between the PCM and the alternator, or you've got a problem with the PCM itself.
What's your voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running at around 2000 RPM?
With the key on and the engine off, disconnect the connector at the alternator and check the voltage from the battery sense wire (should be the far right pin, with the locking tab on the connector facing up and the connector facing you) and ground, this should be battery voltage, give or take half a volt.
Start with this first, if all this checks okay, you've got a problem somewhere in the harness between the PCM and the alternator, or you've got a problem with the PCM itself.
Sorry, the DTC was there after I replaced the batt. and before I replaced the alt, hence the reason I replaced it.
Last edited by xlint1; 04-01-2007 at 12:37 AM.
#30
04-02-2007, 12:48 AM
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Same situation so far... Went back to autozone and had them test the alt. It charged 14.5V and totally passed the load test. Now I have a used PCM coming in the mail, and will prob. get a Motorcraft alt. to please the Ford techs. Here goes another $450. My guess is the PCM, with the airbag light now staying on, a P0622 AND P1000 DTC being set? I can't see an aftermarket alt. doing all that while still charging the battery. Just a FYI: someone did mention about disconnecting the battery before you remove any wiring harnesses from the PCM on the firewall. It may create a spike that might harm the computer.