I need Some Help On Deciding!!!
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I need Some Help On Deciding!!!
Ok guys heres the situation, I put a system in my truck, running 2 10's under the seat, bass is ok, but want more! I have two option Run a box that sit on the seat for 2 more 10's (Same model as ones under the seat, JL W1) or run a single 10 (JL W3) higher watt, that sits behind the seat... can some one help me out
PLZ
PLZ
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From: Anchorage, AK
You have two tens mounted inside a space as small as a truck cab, and you need MORE bass? You understand that you're going to kill your ears right?
That setup should provide more then enough bass, so I'm guessing one of three things is going on:
1)Your box is either of low quality, or it isn't ported. Normally a sealed box is better as it provides tighter bass and higher fidelity, but a ported box will give you more bass volume. I'm not sure what kind of box you have or where you got it, but you might want to have it looked at by a professional and see what they think.
2)Your subs might be crap. I'm no fan of JL anything, so I'm not sure what the specs or performance of your particular subs are, but considering they are JL I am going to assume they are overpriced and underpowered, as most of their products tend to be. Once again, a professional would be a good judge of whether or not you are getting the most bang for your buck. My advice would be to dump them on ebay and pick up some Alpine type R's, Infinity Kappa's, Polk's or Rockford Fosgates.
3)Your amp isn't putting out enough juice to power your subs properly. People underpower their subs almost as often as they overpower them. A friend of mine works for a local installer, and he said if he had a nickle for everytime someone has come in complaining about their new components sounding worse then the stocks they replaced, only to find they were trying to power them off the headunit, he'd be able to buy a Z3 by now. His rule of thumb is to have at 200w per sub, but anything more then 150w per sub should work fine. Personally, I would go with the Alpine PDX-4.100 4 channel bridged to two channels if you can afford it. The thing is tiny for all the power it puts out, and fits perfectly in most tight spaces such as behind the seat back or under the passenger side seat. The Rockford Fosgate P600-2 or P400-4, or the Polk Momo C400.4 are also all good choices.
Anyway, I hope this helps. If you think your setup is plenty powerful, and you're just lacking enough speakers, then go ahead and add a couple more. Personally I cringe at the thought of a sub box just sitting on the backseat like that, but if you don't normally put people back there, I guess it doesn't really matter. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
That setup should provide more then enough bass, so I'm guessing one of three things is going on:
1)Your box is either of low quality, or it isn't ported. Normally a sealed box is better as it provides tighter bass and higher fidelity, but a ported box will give you more bass volume. I'm not sure what kind of box you have or where you got it, but you might want to have it looked at by a professional and see what they think.
2)Your subs might be crap. I'm no fan of JL anything, so I'm not sure what the specs or performance of your particular subs are, but considering they are JL I am going to assume they are overpriced and underpowered, as most of their products tend to be. Once again, a professional would be a good judge of whether or not you are getting the most bang for your buck. My advice would be to dump them on ebay and pick up some Alpine type R's, Infinity Kappa's, Polk's or Rockford Fosgates.
3)Your amp isn't putting out enough juice to power your subs properly. People underpower their subs almost as often as they overpower them. A friend of mine works for a local installer, and he said if he had a nickle for everytime someone has come in complaining about their new components sounding worse then the stocks they replaced, only to find they were trying to power them off the headunit, he'd be able to buy a Z3 by now. His rule of thumb is to have at 200w per sub, but anything more then 150w per sub should work fine. Personally, I would go with the Alpine PDX-4.100 4 channel bridged to two channels if you can afford it. The thing is tiny for all the power it puts out, and fits perfectly in most tight spaces such as behind the seat back or under the passenger side seat. The Rockford Fosgate P600-2 or P400-4, or the Polk Momo C400.4 are also all good choices.
Anyway, I hope this helps. If you think your setup is plenty powerful, and you're just lacking enough speakers, then go ahead and add a couple more. Personally I cringe at the thought of a sub box just sitting on the backseat like that, but if you don't normally put people back there, I guess it doesn't really matter. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
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Originally Posted by JohnnyCashAK
You have two tens mounted inside a space as small as a truck cab, and you need MORE bass? You understand that you're going to kill your ears right?
That setup should provide more then enough bass, so I'm guessing one of three things is going on:
1)Your box is either of low quality, or it isn't ported. Normally a sealed box is better as it provides tighter bass and higher fidelity, but a ported box will give you more bass volume. I'm not sure what kind of box you have or where you got it, but you might want to have it looked at by a professional and see what they think.
2)Your subs might be crap. I'm no fan of JL anything, so I'm not sure what the specs or performance of your particular subs are, but considering they are JL I am going to assume they are overpriced and underpowered, as most of their products tend to be. Once again, a professional would be a good judge of whether or not you are getting the most bang for your buck. My advice would be to dump them on ebay and pick up some Alpine type R's, Infinity Kappa's, Polk's or Rockford Fosgates.
3)Your amp isn't putting out enough juice to power your subs properly. People underpower their subs almost as often as they overpower them. A friend of mine works for a local installer, and he said if he had a nickle for everytime someone has come in complaining about their new components sounding worse then the stocks they replaced, only to find they were trying to power them off the headunit, he'd be able to buy a Z3 by now. His rule of thumb is to have at 200w per sub, but anything more then 150w per sub should work fine. Personally, I would go with the Alpine PDX-4.100 4 channel bridged to two channels if you can afford it. The thing is tiny for all the power it puts out, and fits perfectly in most tight spaces such as behind the seat back or under the passenger side seat. The Rockford Fosgate P600-2 or P400-4, or the Polk Momo C400.4 are also all good choices.
Anyway, I hope this helps. If you think your setup is plenty powerful, and you're just lacking enough speakers, then go ahead and add a couple more. Personally I cringe at the thought of a sub box just sitting on the backseat like that, but if you don't normally put people back there, I guess it doesn't really matter. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
That setup should provide more then enough bass, so I'm guessing one of three things is going on:
1)Your box is either of low quality, or it isn't ported. Normally a sealed box is better as it provides tighter bass and higher fidelity, but a ported box will give you more bass volume. I'm not sure what kind of box you have or where you got it, but you might want to have it looked at by a professional and see what they think.
2)Your subs might be crap. I'm no fan of JL anything, so I'm not sure what the specs or performance of your particular subs are, but considering they are JL I am going to assume they are overpriced and underpowered, as most of their products tend to be. Once again, a professional would be a good judge of whether or not you are getting the most bang for your buck. My advice would be to dump them on ebay and pick up some Alpine type R's, Infinity Kappa's, Polk's or Rockford Fosgates.
3)Your amp isn't putting out enough juice to power your subs properly. People underpower their subs almost as often as they overpower them. A friend of mine works for a local installer, and he said if he had a nickle for everytime someone has come in complaining about their new components sounding worse then the stocks they replaced, only to find they were trying to power them off the headunit, he'd be able to buy a Z3 by now. His rule of thumb is to have at 200w per sub, but anything more then 150w per sub should work fine. Personally, I would go with the Alpine PDX-4.100 4 channel bridged to two channels if you can afford it. The thing is tiny for all the power it puts out, and fits perfectly in most tight spaces such as behind the seat back or under the passenger side seat. The Rockford Fosgate P600-2 or P400-4, or the Polk Momo C400.4 are also all good choices.
Anyway, I hope this helps. If you think your setup is plenty powerful, and you're just lacking enough speakers, then go ahead and add a couple more. Personally I cringe at the thought of a sub box just sitting on the backseat like that, but if you don't normally put people back there, I guess it doesn't really matter. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Professional shop built the box, subs are powered enough... not sure if im being to picky, but can you answer this for me, will it sound funny if i add another 10" sub that isn't in the same box?
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From: Anchorage, AK
I guess it all depends on where you want to put that other box. If you have a center console, you could probably mod it into there. I've seen it done before in these forums, and you can probably find the thread if you do a quick search on 'sub center console' or something like that.
It's really your call man, as it's your truck and your ears. If you're not happy with what you've got then that's all there is to it. I get my mod ideas from going to some of the local shops that routinely enter their own cars in local competitions, and talking shop with them and looking over their photos. These guys love to brag about their work, and they always have albums full of their stuff. I've seen some pretty creative and over the top installs. This one guy had so many subs stuffed into his rig that he installed a second battery and even his top of the line aftermarket alternator ran hot enough to cook christmas dinner on.
They also usually have a book of shame too... absolutely insane or completely retarded installs. When I was getting my amp swapped out in my old bronco (which had died because the guy who owned it before me was a genius apparently and mounted the second amp ontop of the first, driving the screws straight down through not only the casing but the circuits inside in the process) and this girl came in complaining because the subs she her bf had bought from them and installed in her civic were 'shorting out the rest of her car.' Apparently he'd somehow crammed 4 12's in the trunk and back seat, but was driving the 1000w amp he had powering them off the stock alternator without any caps inbetween. The guy called me over to the shop and was like 'check this out.' Anytime the subs hit a decent low, the lights would dim, and when they cranked it up a powerful low stopped the engine completely. The guy spend a thousand bucks on speakers and amp, but couldn't foot a couple hundred on caps or upgrade alternator to power it all.
It's really your call man, as it's your truck and your ears. If you're not happy with what you've got then that's all there is to it. I get my mod ideas from going to some of the local shops that routinely enter their own cars in local competitions, and talking shop with them and looking over their photos. These guys love to brag about their work, and they always have albums full of their stuff. I've seen some pretty creative and over the top installs. This one guy had so many subs stuffed into his rig that he installed a second battery and even his top of the line aftermarket alternator ran hot enough to cook christmas dinner on.
They also usually have a book of shame too... absolutely insane or completely retarded installs. When I was getting my amp swapped out in my old bronco (which had died because the guy who owned it before me was a genius apparently and mounted the second amp ontop of the first, driving the screws straight down through not only the casing but the circuits inside in the process) and this girl came in complaining because the subs she her bf had bought from them and installed in her civic were 'shorting out the rest of her car.' Apparently he'd somehow crammed 4 12's in the trunk and back seat, but was driving the 1000w amp he had powering them off the stock alternator without any caps inbetween. The guy called me over to the shop and was like 'check this out.' Anytime the subs hit a decent low, the lights would dim, and when they cranked it up a powerful low stopped the engine completely. The guy spend a thousand bucks on speakers and amp, but couldn't foot a couple hundred on caps or upgrade alternator to power it all.
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From: Dfw, TEXAS
switch subs.. there are way better subs out there for the money that will deliver a better response.. Probably cheaper than what you paid too. Pick up some treo ssi's.. great sub for the money with more than enough punch
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Originally Posted by FX4REACTION1
Are they firing up or down?
Originally Posted by weazel
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Originally Posted by weazel
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Originally Posted by FX4REACTION1
Switch em around, from my experience they bump more firing down. I have 2 10" Kicker CVR's firing down connected to a kicker 1500 W. Amp, with built in crossover. No one belives me there 10's they bump loud, try firing em down and make sure your box isnt ported it'll sound better with 10's
i cant make them go down, the box is built for it up and bolted down, i think im just gonna ad another box and ad a 10"!
How are the new Rockford Fosgate Shallow mount subs?
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...n_US&p_status=
Last edited by weazel; Mar 17, 2007 at 07:19 PM.
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From: mobile, Al
Originally Posted by weazel
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