I bought a 4x4 for the extra traction available for winter driving and where I work the road out is about a 35 degree angle and in the winter it can be rather difficult to get out and having a 4x4 helps. I don't need all that extra wheel clearence, I just need 4wd in the winter.

Now for adding a spacer, I've already posted my response. If you don't like the way my truck sits, that's your problem, but I'm not going to jump on the leveling kit wagon just to satisfy you. Down the road, when you have to replace your ball joints prematurely, you will think twice about putting in that stupid spacer just for looks. If you want more tire clearence, put in a real lift, don't take the cheap way out, you'll pay for it later.

 

I also agree with lowering the rear to level it... best thing I have done to my truck as of yet. It looks and rides better, lower center of gravity = more stability. Plus I can now almost reach inside the bed I use the 4x4 for getting around my farm and for bad roads, I don't need it up in the air for that... these trucks already have plenty of ground clearance.

 

actually, my statement was just a rhetorical statement. I wasn't questioning why you bought your truck. It just seems to make more sense to save some money initially to buy and lower a 4x2 than buy and lower a 4x4.

Your right, I don't like the low slung stance of your truck. You do though. I hope anyways.

Did I ask you to jump in my rickety old worn out wagon that has 2 front wheels about to fall off? I am merely pointing out that the FX4=offroad just like a Corvette=muscle car. FX4 doesn't = street truck. I was trying to play devil's advocate and prevent defacing a nice offroad capable truck.

what do you base your ball joint info on? I haven't seen anything that says they'll wear out quicker. I have heard alot of people just throwing that statement about ***** nilly, but nothing concrete. If you've got something factual, please send it my way. That would be usefull to know about if true.

the spacer actually is a real lift. it does the equivalent as getting the 3" coil-over "lift". besides, why should I pay thousands of $ to get room to fit ~35" tires, when I can spend <$100?

wanna agree to disagree?

 

hey 05RedFX4, I forgot to ask. What all do you have bolt-on wise to get that 248 RWHP and 309 RWTQ? I've been looking into getting some custom dyno tuneing done and want to maximize my dyno efforts.

 

I used to have an A.S. 2.5" kit on my 05 red FX4 (hence my screenname) and I saw firsthand how close the ball joints are to the limit in range of motion. Couple that with several members with an AS having ball joint problems with only 25K-30K-40K miles and that was enough to convince me. That was around a year-year and a half ago.

The 3" coil over lift is basically a glorified leveling kit any way, it does the same thing. A spacer kit adds to the length of the stock coilover assy to give lift, a 3" coilover lift is just a longer coilover assy. Six of one, half a dozen of the other. They both put your ball joints at or near their limit.

A real lift lowers the lower control arms, the front diff, gives you longer spindles, and longer coilovers and keeps your stock ball joint geometry.

An Air Force One intake in the 3.5" size, a Magnaflow after cat exhaust system, and custom tunes from Mike Troyer at Troyer performance. You can get everything from them, what I have is their stage 1 performance package. Your price may vary if you upgrade your exhaust like I did. If you mention you are an F-150 online member, you get a discount. Don't take my numbers as an example, my truck a little on the low side, it only had 1400 miles when I put it on the dyno. Thier is some members around who have the same mods and are putting down as high as 260 hp and 325 tq.

 

I understand what you are saying, but i disagree b.c i do not have a 400Hp vehicle. hell i dont even have 250 ponies.... Nor do i do any kind of extreme axle flexxing that may put more stress on the axle. For the axle to come out from under the truck, it would take 4 U bolts to fail, and a U joint. I highly doubt that on my set up that will ever happen, even if i keep reusing them....

 

+1

There was a thread recently about someone prematurely replacing ball joints. They believed it was because of the spacer but how do you prove that? I'll drop the rear of my 4x4 before I stick a spacer in there.

 

I noticed the angle on the ball joints also, but it isn't too extreme unless you're wheelin' and have a wheel stuffed or hangin off the ground...I don't get to wheel that often, so I fully expect 60k before I get any ball joint problems.

thanks. I've already got a pretty good CAI and it looks like we have the same SIDO. I just need to get my hands on an X-Cal2 and get some dyno work done. Although the Edge does look very nice installed. Maybe I'll buck up for that new Livewire thingy. Decisions like that with $500 on the line suck. I've got 13,000 miles now, so the motor should be just about done breaking in.

 

Well I am going to be lowering the rear of my truck this up coming weekend and my bolts should be in on Wednesday. I was wondering do the bolts come with new nuts or do I use the old ones?

 

Since I got my truck back today I was looking at the blocks. Or I guess I was. Are you guys talking about the block that the bumpstops are attached to?

 

No, they don't come with new nuts, I just reused my old ones.

Yes, they sit on top of the axle, under the leaf spring.

 

ok i got the standard 2 wheel drive ones . i just want to make sure the nut is the same. did you have any problems useing the old nuts?

 

Yes, the nut is the same. No problems what-so-ever.

 

thanks so much for all the help. ill post pics as soon as its done.

 

cant wait to see the pics