UPDATE: The ARE lock is *NOT* always hot. I was able to get my test light to 'flash' when I push my keyfob to unlock and, vice-versa, when I lock.

There it is... thanks Brew.

That's what I bought tonight and plan to use Sunday for this install...

Still not sure which fuse to snag.

 

Well that's too bad! Figures though.

Guess I'll need to make a trip to Radio Shack for one of the fuse things.

RP,

What are you doing for a switch?


Brew,

What are you using to make that hole larger? I really think that round switch will look AWESOME in that hole and very OEM. Not to mention the LED will help you find the switch in the dark.

Duke

 

I haven't installed mine yet, but I bought a 7-circuit fuse box setup (3 constant hot, 4 ignition hot) from Painless Wiring. I'm sure most of you know about these already but thought I'd throw it out there.

You basically run a lead to the battery for your constant hot, and run a fuse tap to get your ignition hots. The block is pre-wired, and the wires are labeled constant hot or ignition hot. The version I have even has a weather-resistant cover on it so it can be mounted in the engine bay if you wanted to. I'm going to use it so I'll have easy wiring options later if I add accessories. No need to re-tap the stock fuse block or the battery later if I add something else.
Although a lot of peopel that posted said they didn't want to run anything to the battery, this option would at least let you add more mods later without having to do it twice. Just my 2 pesos.

 

What is the PN? This is exactly what I'm looking for..

Guys that are doing a multi light setup - are you wiring the lights in series?

 

I think I found it.

Part# 70107
Cirkit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block / 7 Circuits
Part # 70107

The safe way to add electrical accessories is with CirKit Boss, the first circuit isolator that provides both constant and ignition hot circuits. Kit includes an in-line circuit breaker, relay, mounting hardware and terminals. Protects your OEM warranty and is easy to install.

3-constant hot and 4 ignition hot circuit. Uses a 30 AMP relay

#70117 - 7 ignition-hot circuits. Uses two 40 amp relays.

7-CIRCUIT WEATHER RESISTANT FUSE BLOCK
#70207 - 3 constant-hot and 4 ignition-hot circuits. Uses one 30 amp relay. (Includes cover for fuses)

#70217 - 7 ignition-hot circuits. Uses two 40 amp relays. (Includes cover for fuses)

70207 is what I want.. $58 from Jegs.

Birdman - How difficult was this to install?

 

Looks cool and an easy way to clean up wiring, but then again I'm trying to keep the cost down on this project, so another $58 won't meet the budget.

Good idea though!


Duke

 

Maybe a better way to power up the "hot with ignition" side of the Painless Fuse Box would be to use a fuse tap to trigger a relay - which would then be powered off the battery. That way you avoid drawing way too much power off of the original circuit. Make sure you put a master fuse in line between the battery and both the "always hot" and "hot with ignition" sides too.

How does Brad get away with having the same post in two forums? Man, he's keeping me busy hopping back and forth trying to answer questions. At least he's worth it.

 

You know I'm also wondering if there is a way to build a timer to this circuit.

I mean "what if" you accidentally leave the switch on?

Granted the LEDs pull a VERY low amount of voltage, but say you leave the truck for awhile and for whatever reason it drains your battery. That would really stink.

EDIT: I realize you can do a pressure switch so they only light when the ARE cover is open and then build in an over ride switch so they can be turned off if you were taking the ARE cover off for some reason.
HOWEVER, those pressure switches fail pretty easily. I have one on the hood for my Viper alarm and I'll be darned if that thing doesn't seem to bend every couple of times that hood is opened. I'm also betting people open their ARE cover more often then they open their hood.

Duke

 

That's why my initial suggestion to RP was to simply tie the LED bed lights in to the parking lights (brown wire) in the tail light assembly with a switch. The low current draw won't require any changes to the circuit and our lights turn out automatically if you happen top leave them on by mistake. Yes, you would have to turn on your parking lights to use your bed lights, but ...

 

Point taken. I'm also going to stop by radio shack this weekend and look for a timer of sorts. Something you could set so at 10 minutes or so it would turn off.

But then again for those of us (me) who like to just leave that switch in auto and forget about it, it would require us to move the switch. But at that point we're just REALLY splitting hairs.

Duke

 

Not a bad idea.. I may do this...

Where is this tail light assy at? What is the best way to tie in? One of those wire jacket puncture splice thingys..?

 

My plan is to simply tap the cigar lighter circuit... put an inline fuse (5A)... run out of the truck via the quarter-grommet at the rear door... back to the rear... ground off of anything back there (splice connector probably).... switch is a LED rocker switch...

You guys with the timers and such... fancy-schmancy! LOL!

I'd have to admit, the brown wire in the tail lights is sounding more appealing...

I guess the theory in using that was to use the remote to kick on the lights as you approach the vehicle thus illuminating the box as well (if the LEDs are run off of that same circuit? No need for switching or anything at that point...

Hmm... the easy way or the hard way...

 

The only negative I see to the taping of the brown wire is the time out on the running lights or headlights. UNLESS you were to walk to the driver's side and turn the headlights or running lights on. Which defeats the purpose of just wanting to walk back to the bed. Not to mention if you like keeping your headlights in AUTO, the timeout is something like 2 minutes.

I think I'm going to go for the cig lighter fuse. RP, let me know when you find out what fuse that is.

Duke

 

Haven't installed it yet, have it sitting here on my desk calling my name. I got it cuz I've been adding power locks and windows to my STX, and was getting tired of tapping a fuse for each one. So getting the Painless Wiring block will make it much easier and in the future.

Oh, and I got the 70207. If you want me to take any photos of it, let me know.

 

I gotta order that... I plan on adding some various different things (hard wiring radar detector, hard wiring sirius radio, etc) and that block will make life easy.

RP/Duke - I think I'm still going brown wire.. but where is it?