Santa...I want that sig underneath the tree for christmas...lifesize, not digital. :santa:


So how much filing do you need to do and what are you going to use to make the hole bigger? I also wonder how much of a pain filing will be since I have a rhino liner sprayed in.

I mean we could just as easily zip tie it up under the rail but it'd look so much more OEM and slick having that switch fit in the hole. I'm going to stop by radio shack on the way home and see if they have a smaller switch.

Also, can someone with an ARE cover w/ electric lock check the wires that run to the power lock? I'm almost certain that one of them is a constant "hot" wire.

My installer ran the wire from up under the bed through the left brake light and into the bed for the power lock. I'll check to see where it originates. But then again where ever it does, it works with the power locks so the second push on the unlock button unlocks it. Where is ChrisAdams when you need him?

Duke

 

RP, have you considered pulling power from your running lights? You could put a switch in the bed somewhere that gets its power from the tail lights, you could even use the one in the trailer harness. That way whenever you needed to power the lights, you could unlock the truck with your remote (at night it turns on the running lights) and that would allow you to power up the bed lights.

I pulled power from my park lights for the switch for my grille lights. The switch feeds a relay in the grille for the lights, but the remote is pulled from the park lights.


The lock/unlock wires are not a constant hot. In order for the 2 wires to both lock and unlock, they have to reverse polarity. In other words, +12v on one wire and ground on the other locks the door and vice versa for unlock. Also, its a momentary +12v, not constant.

 

Hmm, sounds like the easiest thing to do then is run one from the cab down the side rail and then out the rubber groument at the back bottom part of the cab. Then along the underside to the back of the tailgate. So none of the trailer light harness wires is a constant hot wire?

Duke

 

Not with the key off.

 

I don't think it will be very hard at all nor will it require much filing. I mean the back of the switch fits in the hole. It's just that it flares out a bit and gets to tight. I've been looking for a different switch and can't seem to find anything I like, small enough to fit in that hole.


BREW

 

if you have a 7 way there should be a constant hot back there...

 

Ummm,,,sortta, it's only hot when the key is in the on position.


BREW

 

He must not have read the previous posts.


BTW Brew, I know you have heard this a bunch already, but Im loving the new sig. It makes me wanna

 

HAHAHA, yeh..Ive heard it a few times. It's all good as long as you don't wanna me...



BREW

 

Anyone find a hot with a bed cover with power lock?

I have the LEER with power lock. Want to find a hot lead from that harness so I can wire my setup. Bought the same product that Josiah did.

 

Thanks Monkey... much appreciated!!

The only flaw in that is that I may want to open the top and not hit the key fob to kick on the lights. Miniscule worry, I know. But, by pulling off the block on a constant hot source, I can remove that issue from the game.

 

My power lock is the same as the regular locks... it's only hot for a 'pulse' to activate the locking mechanism.

What fuse should I utilize to run the rear lights? Which is 'always hot'?

 

I'm thinking I'm just going to go in at my Z1 radio harness and pull from that hot wire. That was I don't have another wire running off the battery.

Duke

 

When I say 'block', I mean 'fuse block'. Very easy add on with an 'add a fuse' type of setup.

 

oh.....so this would down at the kick panel on the passenger's side? Or are you doing a setup off the battery which has a bunch of different locations to put wires and then only one goes to the battery?

I'd be interested in either.

Thanks,

Duke