Nitto TG 295/70/17's are on stock rims (for now). Heading over to buddy's house in the A.M. to install the spacers. He has a flat driveway and my floor jack. I stopped by Wally World today and bought a pair of GM Goodwrench jack stands; $18. I hope they don't mind holding up a Ford. Also got a 30mm deep socket, 1-1/16" socket and 3/8-1/2 adapter; $19 from Star Auto Parts.

I've downloaded the install.doc with pics that someone did a good job of creating. Also read a bunch of posts about the install. Any last minute advice that might make things go smoother?

And a big thanks to all the guys around here who patiently (and repeatedly) answer all the newb questions posted here!

 

I am installing my 2.5" in the morning also I have printed out some pics along with the instructions that came with it. Going to coworkers house he has all the tools, air, everything. Any other tips will be apprrciated!

 

Take before and after pics.

I have a different spacer than the one you're installing but the install should be the same. Pretty straightforward install.

The only other tip would be to make sure the floor jack you intend to use will be able to lift your truck high enough after the install to put the wheels back on.

 

The only other thing ya need is a big long cheater bar. That strut bolt is a tight little *****. And just be careful not to tare the upper ball joint boot. I'll really be suprised if that 3/8 adapter holds up, especially on that strut bolt! Just take ya time it's an easy project & good luck

 

Since I will have air can I use an impact on the 30mm LCA bolt?

 

I would have, but my gun/compressor was just to weak woulden't budge it! so I went with the cheater bar set up. Either way, what ever works for ya

 

You will have fun doing it, its an easy mod. The longest part about it is the first side after that the second side will only take you about 30 mins. Remember to retorque everything after you are done.

Also make sure you have the truck on a jackstand or have a second jack availiable, you will need the jack to raise the lower A arm up to reattach it.

 

After you remove the nut for the ball joint, whack the casting where the tapered stud passes through it. Use a heavy ball peen hammer and the ball joint will pop right off. Make sure there is nothing supporting the control arm, so it will fall right off. You got to hit it square and with great force. It won't damage a thing. This works great with tie rod ends too.

 

Funny, I just broke mine loose with the 1/2 inch drive ratchet with ease.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I've turned a wrench or two in my day. Just never worked on IFS before. Not worried about breaking loose any bolts, or any other aspect of this mod. But I don't want to damage the ball joints. From my reading here it seems everyone says to force the spindle down as opposed to tapping up the ball joint from below, right?

It always seems like stubborn nuts and bolt come loose a little easier in cooler weather than in the summer. Of course, it never fails; the bolt breaks free and your knuckles find the hardest, sharpest thing in the project.

I'll get pics tomorrow, but I didn't get any of the truck before I had the new tires mounted. Oh, well. I'll get some before/after pics now, and later when I can scrounge up the duckets for wheels. Dang kids say they don't want rims for Christmas... Go figure!

 

Good luck and have fun... I love doing my mods too.

 

Let me clarify where to whack it. You need to hit it on the SIDE of the casting, not on the ball joint whatsoever! Not on the top side either like you are going to beat it off. It is the vibrating force on the SIDE impact that Magically pops it loose! A heavy ball peen hammer is a must, with a strong direct hit. (no sissyboy swing) Hit Only the Side of the casting where the tapered part of the stud passes through it. It won't damage a thing! No torn boot either. I do this all the time, I was a semi truck mechanic for about 15 years. The first side will take you a little while to figure out, but you will do the other side in about half the time. Start with the passenger side first. Also use lock tight on all of the spacer nuts. Some people have had popping noises afterwards. One other thing, make sure you tighten the sway bar links tight, they will pop too. Use silicone spray in the removal of the links.

 

Yea follow these steps and youll be fine. I put my 2.5 autospring on about a week ago, after the first side is done the second is a breeze

 

any problems so far with the king ranch?? i want to do mine but afraid of the premature ball joint failure

 

Don't worry about the BJ. Thousands of people have put the leveling kits on, from what we have heard only a few have had problems. Those ones are also running a lot bigger tires too. I had a 3" coilover on, removed that and am now running a 2.5" leveling kit with a rear add-a-leaf and have not had any problems to date. Even if I do in the future, the new upper control arms with the ball joint are only $75 from a couple online ford parts dealers. The improved stance and look are worth it.