Can't help you on the who, we don't operate in Wisconsin, but make sure they install a Carlite replacement third visor w/ F150 logo... DW1529 part number and we only use Sika Products (urethane and primers) same as OEM

http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-autoglass-agr

this is what I install with... SikaTack® -Ultrafast II

 

sound like youre on top of it, if its a Ford Shield its 'black butyl' thats what they use...you may have to clean it some more, but it will get better....

 

Thanks for the info, that is exactly what I was looking for.

 

Glad to help....

 

F150Truck'in,

I have a water leak that the dealership said is from the windshield. They contract out the glass work and I have to take the truck back on Wednesday. Do you think they will have to remove the dash to reseal the windshield? Will they have to remove the windshield itself? I want it fixed but I don't want my dash all hacked up in the process.

 

Dash would NEVER be removed to reseal a shield... period...
All dealer contract out the glass work.. at lease around here..

top and sides can in most case be resealed from inside by removing trim, "A" pillows molding, sun visors and visor clips, center overhead console and lower head liner down a little to get a caulking gun in there...

The bottom is a horse of another color, that will mostly require removing windshield ( and replacing because there is a slim to none chance in saving it on these trucks...) also if they do "save it" check it good for scratches from the cut out tools...

and make sure the top molding on the shield hasn't been replaced with a universal molding like 100B or 101B, I use these molding on a lot of car and trucks... At customer request to save them from buying a new shield just fo a molding that can't be bought...

I myself would not except universal molding on a warrenty job ( i'm a picky SOB) and you can't just buy the molding from Ford, it comes on the shield... hice, new shield if molding is damaged.....

Alot of dealers use some jackleg in a van or truck that has Glass on the door..
because they want you there with a hours notice to fix something and a big company may be two or three days before they get there... like us, we stay booked 3-5 days... always.....

Tim

 

F150Truck'in,

Now I know what to watch out for. Thanks for the information, Tim.

 

Anytime....

 

Well, they removed the windshield without breaking it and resealed and reinstalled it. I didn't see any scratches on the windshield or the truck. They did replace the windshield top molding, though. The part number for that molding is: 4L3Z-1503144-AA. I will leak test it tomorrow myself and see if they fixed it or not.

 

Good deal... sometimes they can be saved, it just depends on how much room or seal thickness you have to work with.... when the shield is what we call " slammed to the pinchweld" meaning very little sealer between the glass and metal...most any cutout tool will crack the shield, game over....

Glad to see Ford has the molding available now... I have to keep than in mind for future needs....


Glad you got it worked out.....

 

Good news is: they didn't break the windshield. Bad news is: they didn't fix the leak.

 

is it still leaking in the same place, if so I highly dought its the shield, to have a shield leak water and pull it, then leak again in the same place... well let say, it would be
10000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 0000 to 1 chance..

where are you seeing water come in at and is it on the pas side, also do you have the conector block on the door harness if it is pas side.. ford has had some leak problem on this block on the pas side, there is a TSB on it....

 

I don't think it was the windshield to begin with. I am see and feeling water running down the seam between the floor and the kick panel where the fuse box is. I felt up as high as I could reach along that joint and it was wet all the way up.

 

ok, that sound like a open seam where factory seam sealer didn't bond or is missing, I would remove the cowl, grab a garden hose, run a stream of water in the cowl pan aera... there are seams in there where the firewall, A pillow, and door jam meet.... they are spot welded and seam sealed....

if thats not it move to the top of the A pillow and roof seam... remember when leak testing with water, always start low and move up... if you start at the top, everything is getting water and telling you nothing as to where the leak is....

 

I'll give that a try and see if I can narrow down where the leak is. Thanks.