I'm going to pick up two fans (not real sure what ones yet). I'll look into specs on my one for those.

Then I'm going to make my own mount. not a shroud. Something to effect of two stainless bars that go parallel (sp?) across the radiator. Then mount the fans to that. Then I'm going to get two controllers and two probes. I'm going to go with two cheap controllers. Both fans will have different temps. I will probably set the one fan to 200 and that's all it does. the other fan I will set to about 225 as a fail safe. But I'm also going to wire it to a relay that gets switched from the ac clutch. Whenever that clutch is shut, the fan will be on.

In theory this seems like what i would get for the $400, but i'll end up at have the price. As for the LED's, I haven't researched it yet, but I'll find something on the net. probably someone over on the12volt knows exactly what i'm looking for.

The only issue I'm having is that when you pop off that factory fan shroud, what are you left with. I really don't want to hack the thing apart. But i don't want the top of the radiator to look like crap either. Maybe i will just get a piece of stainless and make a cover. I think I just saw them do that on Trucks. The project s10k had efans, and they just happened to have new SS scrap with the wrapper thrown in a corner. I'll have to go check the corners of my house, lol.

 

Good ideas, but depending the speed of the vehicle (mine is ~55mph and up) the fans will spin and give a false feedback...but then again at that speed the fans are not often on..

I figure if you can at least know there is voltage going to the fans and they are new and in good clean condition you can safely assume (I know) that they are spinning. Plus, if you have voltage going to a "stuck" fan you will get the burning electronics smell...which can only be mistaken for roasted desert iguana..

R/
Craig

 

I was thinking much easier. I think I figured out exactly what i'm going to do, just have to figure out my wiring for the dual led's.

I'm going to get a limit switch and mount a small little ear on it. I'll get it tensioned correctly to where wind from driving doesn't affect it. When the fan blows it bumps the switch. causing my green LED to light up. When the switch is not depressed it causes my red LED to light up. The key to the simple side is that the switches power line is the fans power. So if the controller isn't sending the power, there are no LED's lit. But when the controller sends that power, I'll know what's happening.

It's really simple, but I had hard time relaying that into works. My brain is faster then my fingers.

 

I like the idea and look forward to seeing pics of it...but, you are using something mechanical to give you positive/negative feedback on something else mechanical...my only concern would be one or the other failing and getting a false feedback. For instance: the switch gets dirty and gets stuck, either open or closed.

Either way, good luck and I look forward to seeing your progress..

R/
Craig

 

I realize this too. I need the fans and for them to be installed. then the brain just clicks and run with it. I think mechanical is the only real way. Electrically, fans are good for shorting out. So it's way to easy to get flase positives. But I really think the mechanical side can be worked. There's tons of switches out there as well. Maybe, I'll just put a webcam on top of my alternator and watch the fans ;^)

 

Or a microphone...you could listen to them come on..

Craig

 

won't hear em over the radio. Cut some holes in my hood, and use streamers attached to the fan grilles. Or I could mount some kazoo's to the fans.

 

My secondary fan is not associated with any A/C wiring because if I'm actually moving at 40MPH or above.. like highway speeds, I don't need either fan on.. air speed will cool the radiator and AC condenser.

The second fan is only for when I'm at the track wanting to cool down a little bit, or in heavy traffic with the AC on... That's it..

 

So they updated their controllers, but fail to publically own up to the problem? Are us Troyer customers who have burnt out controllers going to have them replaced? I'm very curious because I am running my truck with 2 non-working fans right now, luckily it's almost winter. Watching my temps is a task on it's own until I can wire them to a relay.

Both controllers are damaged in every case that I've heard of.

 

J;

Can't help you with that, if the Q was directed at me - this is old news from you - and I'm just passing along what was stated in another post ...

Not all their controllers have failed - I have an 'old' version still running fine after 2+ years in another application. Lots of other folks do as well.

To me it seems your solution is simple - manual overrides PLUS another brand of controller or the new & improved ones.

In retrospect, I hear ya - the design could have been better, and the replacement could have been handled better - I know I was real careful with mine, and I used an external relay from the start.

BTW - How are your mounts holding out with all that bashing?

Cheers
Bubba

 

They're holding up ok, no leaks yet knock on wood. Some pins have came out, but not enough to cause too much concern. The rubber grommet backings do not work terribly well when put to abuse but I knew this method going into it so who am I to complain. I agree, the controller issues should be handled better but what can we do. The solution is simple, but I'm going to wire a switched on with manual masterswitch/override somewhere in cab, and a couple indicator lights.