If you within ~1000 ft, it is a two way pager. One cool thing about it is, you can check the interior temperature of your vehicle via remote. That way if it's too cold/warm you can start the truck. If it's something you can live with temperature wise, then there is no need to waste gas starting it and letting it idle. On my remote I push the "option" & "trunk release" buttons at the same time and it displays the interior temp.

 

If you wire up the door keypad, you will also be able to continue using your ford keyfobs. So in your case, you can have the alarm key fob and still use your fusion key as well and it won't create any problems. The only downside to your fusion key is it won't remote start the vehicle unless you can figure out a way to set the trunk release to the remote start.

 

Yep, I forgot about that feature...pretty cool too!!!!

 

i was curious how long it would take, on my mom's suburban onstar has taken up to 10 minutes to pop the locks. there have been several times where i can't remember if the doors are locked and i have to drop what i am doing and go double check. it would definitely come in handy.

 

I know the feeling. I'm in the military and stationed on San Clemete Island, I fly out to the island during the week and come home on the weekends. Many times my hands were full when leaving my truck at the terminal or just get that feeling (out on the island) that I forgot to lock it. Having the Car Link, I can call from the island and lock it. No worries.

 

So you guys with the 680 think it is worth the extra money over the CA630? I don't need the keypad compatibility deal because I don't have it on my old 99.

Just wondered if the gadget effect of the dot matrix two way pager wears off after a while and I might want to keep the price difference in my pocket.

Thanks

 

for lack of time reading all this at work. I have the Ca670 alarm in my truck and working for about a year now. Works with the keypad. What's the benefit from whatever is going on here?

 

The 630 will work fine on your truck unless you are interrested in a two way system or want the Car-Link added. - have a neighbor that I installed the CA670 on his 2000 F150 and he also bought the stick on keypad for his door. Now he can arm/disarm his alarm from the keypad on the door as well.

You'll have to hit Travis up for that info though.

Keep in mind the CA550/670/680 are all the same system. They just have different remotes.

A step down from the CA630 I believe is the CA610. It gives you the Car-Link port but you loose the car honk feature I think. Don't take my word for it though. You'll have to hit Travis up at kcautosound.com for that.

 

I bought the CA670 from autoalarmpro.com for $219 and it came prewired for my truck and instructions specifically for my truck. You can find it cheaper but not with instructions for your specific application and prewired for you. At least I couldn't find it any cheaper. The install was a piece of cake, minus a few small issues. I spoke w/ Derek (tech support for autoalarmpro.com) and he walked me right thru my questions. Great customer service and very knowledgale and friendly. My wife is even impressed w/ this alarm / remote start system.

 

I got my ca670 from powercallsirens.com same thing as GB150, they prewired it for me and the directions we vehicle specific. Even came with an extra LCD remote. Only issue I had was false alarms because of the BCM going to sleep. Simple diode fix.

But what is the deal with the remote? i see the dot matrix thing, but what's so neat about them as compared to my LCD one? Just the inside temp?

Is the car-link thing a module or what? I'm so damn lazy today.

 

The false slarms wouldn't happen to be the chirping all the time. That is solved by pluging in the CA9492 shock sensor and turning off the internal shock sensor. Problem solved.

The CA670 and CA680 both will show you your vehicle temperature. Press the trunk and opt button together.

The Car-Link is a module that plugs into your alarm and allows you to arm, disarm, and remote start your vehicle via telephone and a 1-800 number. No monthly fee. Just the cost of the unit up front.

 

I took the plunge and ordered the CA550 Elite from Travis. Real good guy, I talked to him for probably a half hour about alarms. I figure it is a good choice for me since I can add the 670 or 680 remotes later if i choose or the Car link module. I also got the leveling sensor since I am rolling on Harley 20's that I don't want jacked
Thanks guys!

 

I got my 670 from them also. It came with great instructtions and they have good tech support.

 

Nope, the false alarms were caused by the BCM going to sleep. Diode isolated both door triggers and problem solved. I have no issues with my onboard shock sensor. I set it pretty low. I also mounted the external on the other side of the truck. I don't think I have ever had a false yet because of the shock. Though I do always set it off when I put stuff in the bed and shut the tailgate. I keep forgetting the thing is armed

I think I looked into the car-link when I oringally bought it however long ago. I use to have that module with one of my vipers in my mustang. But then DEI decided to start charging a monthly fee.

Does anyone have any issues with their sirens? Mine seems to every now and then not work. I checked all the wires, even put the siren direct to the battery. Seems it's flakin out. Sometimes she works, and sometimes she doesn't. I'll have to pick one up someday. I also hate the backwards chirps. Once for disarm, and twice for arm. Makes it confusing since all the other cars at the house are the oppisite. Another pet peeve I have with the alarm is that my remotes are starting to crap out. One has no more display on it, but still functions. The other one has the LCD, but I have to press the buttons about 5 times for the command to register. I tried new batteries and re-programming the remotes to the alarm. Have to pick up these new dot matrix deals.

 

What do you mean by the "BCM going to sleep"? What are the signs/symptoms of it going to sleep other than false alarms? And I thought the external shock sensor over rides the the internal sensor making it inactive and using only the external shock sensor. Am I wrong?