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Big 3 - Electrical Upgrade

Old Aug 6, 2006 | 11:13 PM
  #16  
ONE04FX4's Avatar
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From: houston
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i have done the battery cables to the starter. ground and power. also replaced the ground strap to the frame at the front suspension with 4 guage power wire. when i put 4 guage on the alternater i get a battery light on. has anyone else had this problem?? what size wire did you use on the alternater??
 
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 11:21 PM
  #17  
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From: Temecula, CA
Originally Posted by ONE04FX4
i have done the battery cables to the starter. ground and power. also replaced the ground strap to the frame at the front suspension with 4 guage power wire. when i put 4 guage on the alternater i get a battery light on. has anyone else had this problem?? what size wire did you use on the alternater??
Did you replace the ground that goes to the firewall as well? It seems like that's the only one you didn't mentioned.

I used 1/0 cable (those are my pics the TXf150 posted). I never had a problem or a battery light, but I have the yellowtop and not a stock battery.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 01:07 AM
  #18  
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From: Lenexa, KS
Ok. So this is supposed to be a cheap upgrade. Is 1/0 cable and connectors expensive. Would this be a good setup
1. Battery Ground to firewall, chassis, engine block
2. Battery + to Alternator and power
 
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 03:16 AM
  #19  
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From: Temecula, CA
Originally Posted by xplorgee
Ok. So this is supposed to be a cheap upgrade. Is 1/0 cable and connectors expensive. Would this be a good setup
1. Battery Ground to firewall, chassis, engine block
2. Battery + to Alternator and power
I used 1/0 cable from www.weldingsupply.com it's not as pretty as the fancy colored clear stuff...but works just as good!

The terminals can be a little expensive not bad though...like $10. The crimp style ones are cheap.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 11:38 PM
  #20  
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From: houston
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ok got it done now and working.
battery to starter--4 guage stinger high strand wire
battery to starter mount--4 guage stinger
battery to firewall--4 guage stinger
starter mount to frame at front suspension--4 guage stinger.
alternater to battery--4 guage stinger

it looks a little crowded at the batery. i have some stinger battery terminals on order along with cable ends. on the alternater wire that i kept having problems with there is a sense wire in the harness. after i stripped all the covering away i found it. now she is all 4 guage wire.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 02:28 AM
  #21  
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From: Lenexa, KS
As I look at the cables going onto the battery, there are 2 for the negative and 2 for the positive. One of the ground goes to the chassis. Where does the other go. On the Positive, I see one goes to the alternator. Where does the second one go? I found some cable on ebay for about 2.50 a foot. About 5 dollars of connectors and 20 dollars for battery terminals. Going to do that after I find out where the cables on the batteries go.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 02:40 AM
  #22  
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From: Northern CA
I've had problems lately with my damn lighting surging...as if the alternator was going out. That may very well be the case but I need to cleanup all the wiring going to my yellowtop as well...many custom mods
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 03:20 AM
  #23  
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From: Temecula, CA
Originally Posted by xplorgee
As I look at the cables going onto the battery, there are 2 for the negative and 2 for the positive. One of the ground goes to the chassis. Where does the other go. On the Positive, I see one goes to the alternator. Where does the second one go? I found some cable on ebay for about 2.50 a foot. About 5 dollars of connectors and 20 dollars for battery terminals. Going to do that after I find out where the cables on the batteries go.
The other neg cable is grounded on the firewall...you can see in the pic next to the PCM (if this is the one you are talking about).

The other pos cable goes to my amps.

EDIT: The easiest way to do this upgrade is...as you take off your stock cables...just see where they all go and put you upgraded cables in the same place. I just took off the stock harness and cut the lengths I needed...it was easy.

Also, you need about 8-10 ft of positive cable and about 7-8 ft of neg cable to do the Big 3.
 

Last edited by brypink2; Aug 8, 2006 at 03:39 AM.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 09:56 PM
  #24  
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From: Lenexa, KS
So, Im looking at where the stock cable from the battery goes to the alternator. It goes to the back of the alternator. How in the world do you get and put the cable on. Do you ahve to take the belt and alternator off? here is the wire i bought
1/0 ground from battery to firewall
1/0 ground from battery to block
1/0 ground from chassis to block
1/0 + from battery to Alternator

pretty crimps for alternator and cheap ones for the chassis, firewall and block. Does this sound like a good idea?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 10:54 PM
  #25  
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From: houston
Talking

sounds good. my next project is to trace the cable from the battery to the central junction box. i will have to pull the battery to follow it and possibly the passenger side fender skirt. if i do trace her down and get her replaced ill do a write up on it. im thinking that will work great if i can get her replaced to. especially since almost everything runs off of it. oh yay. dont forget that the orange wire with a stripe on it in the harness for the alternater to the battery will need to be removed and reused. or run another one to the battery with a fusible link on it so the alternater will know it is charging.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 01:14 PM
  #26  
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Where is the engine to chassis ground strap?
 
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