Need Help Programming Steering Wheel Controls - PAC Thing
Need Help Programming Steering Wheel Controls - PAC Thing
Hey Guys,
I'm finally getting time to install my PAC-SWIS (or whatever they're called) controls to use my steering wheel controls with the Z1.
I connected the red to the hot wire, black to the black ground wire and then the white wire as it specifies to the "blue and red wire". However there are two blue and red wires in the OEM harness.
I know what you're thinking, go for the certain one that is in the right pin. However, both blue and red wires have been snipped for awhile now in use of the Pioneer Z1. So I don't know which one goes to which pin.
So once I have the right blue and red wire, I need to know which side to connect to. Do I connect the white wire from the PAC to the blue and red wire that runs into the little connector or the one that runs off into the OEM harness?
I've tried one of them on the OEM side of the harness (not leading into the pin) and then when programming, the PAC light comes on when I go to program but then immediately turns off when I release the button on the PAC controls.
I've also tried the one leading into the OEM connector and when I go to program the PAC, the first programming of the button works, but the LED won't turn back on once releasing the button on the steering wheel.
I'm completely lost and tired. Can anyone help?
Duke
I'm finally getting time to install my PAC-SWIS (or whatever they're called) controls to use my steering wheel controls with the Z1.
I connected the red to the hot wire, black to the black ground wire and then the white wire as it specifies to the "blue and red wire". However there are two blue and red wires in the OEM harness.
I know what you're thinking, go for the certain one that is in the right pin. However, both blue and red wires have been snipped for awhile now in use of the Pioneer Z1. So I don't know which one goes to which pin.
So once I have the right blue and red wire, I need to know which side to connect to. Do I connect the white wire from the PAC to the blue and red wire that runs into the little connector or the one that runs off into the OEM harness?
I've tried one of them on the OEM side of the harness (not leading into the pin) and then when programming, the PAC light comes on when I go to program but then immediately turns off when I release the button on the PAC controls.
I've also tried the one leading into the OEM connector and when I go to program the PAC, the first programming of the button works, but the LED won't turn back on once releasing the button on the steering wheel.
I'm completely lost and tired. Can anyone help?
Duke
This is funny.....thanks for the responses guys...not everyone at once!
I actually got it working by changing a few things up.
I also fixed the sub-crackle noise I've been getting. Everything was working fine last night.
I say "was" because this morning the sub wouldn't work.
It seems like something goes wrong with my wiring every week. Maybe the sub turn on wire got disconnected. I'll check it tonight.
Talk about a pain in the rear end.
Duke
I actually got it working by changing a few things up.
I also fixed the sub-crackle noise I've been getting. Everything was working fine last night.
I say "was" because this morning the sub wouldn't work.
It seems like something goes wrong with my wiring every week. Maybe the sub turn on wire got disconnected. I'll check it tonight.
Talk about a pain in the rear end.
Duke
That was going to be my suggestion -- the sub wire (probably blue?) got pulled apart from the connection or something.
Sorry I'm no help on the SWIX device. I tinkered with my SWI-ECL a couple of times before I got it to work the way I wanted to as well and, like you, it was trial and error to a certain degree. Now that it's working though, I can tell you that I LOVE still having my steering wheel controls!
Sorry bud... wish I could be more of a help.
-RP-
Sorry I'm no help on the SWIX device. I tinkered with my SWI-ECL a couple of times before I got it to work the way I wanted to as well and, like you, it was trial and error to a certain degree. Now that it's working though, I can tell you that I LOVE still having my steering wheel controls!
Sorry bud... wish I could be more of a help.

-RP-
Originally Posted by RockPick
That was going to be my suggestion -- the sub wire (probably blue?) got pulled apart from the connection or something.
Sorry I'm no help on the SWIX device. I tinkered with my SWI-ECL a couple of times before I got it to work the way I wanted to as well and, like you, it was trial and error to a certain degree. Now that it's working though, I can tell you that I LOVE still having my steering wheel controls!
Sorry bud... wish I could be more of a help.
-RP-
Sorry I'm no help on the SWIX device. I tinkered with my SWI-ECL a couple of times before I got it to work the way I wanted to as well and, like you, it was trial and error to a certain degree. Now that it's working though, I can tell you that I LOVE still having my steering wheel controls!
Sorry bud... wish I could be more of a help.

-RP-
Then my bypass came undone again so I had to fix that. Then I've had background noise on the sub because the two RCA connectors (red and white) were too close together and the grounds were affecting each other.
Then I tested it last night and everything worked perfectly for the first time. I should have known it was too good to be true.
Hopefully it's just the blue and white wire coming lose on the sub and not something else that'll take forever to trouble shoot.
Duke
Originally Posted by RockPick
What kind of connectors did you use? Geesh man -- seems like they're all falling apart!
I was soldering all my connections and covering them with heat shrink. Only problem was the tip on my solder was covered in some type of wax which was mixing with the solder.
Somebody "borrowed" my soldering iron and played with it in wax, then tried to clean it off. You couldn't see the wax, only smell it on the tip. Problem being my nose was stuffed up and couldn't smell anything.
The wax mixing with the solder made for joints that some what held together but fall apart under any stress. Guess I just found another bad joint in the sub wiring. At least thats what I hope the problem is.
Duke


