For the strongest cam (127350) Comp Cam says:
1) Low gears
2)Exhaust upgrades
3)3000+ stall for automatics.
4)New tune.

 

Jeeees....was that in the PDF?

I thought so.

 

So is an edge considered a new tune? SCT? SCT custom? or something else?

 

Cams are da' bomb!

Best mod I ever did to my Goat.

You would not believe how your engine/exhaust sounds too.

Best bang-for-bucks you could do . . . period!

Worth every penny.

 

Did you go with stage I, II or III Cams ?

 

???

 

i am sticking to my guns recommending the 127300 as the largest most of you should go. these stock springs are a joke along with the cams.

as far as tuning... i can tell you what i am going to do and you decide for yourself.

i will limp it to the dyno for a custom SCT tune.

datalogging with widebands at the track and you might get lucky with A/F being within adjustable parameters. injector upgrades are a 20 minute job. 400 fwhp is really the limit of 30lb at 40 psi. and 24 lb stocker are less. 36-42 lb for more. along with fuel pump.


keep the expectations real. if you stick to 5500 or less rpm and 380 or less fwhp it keeps the expenses down.

the number one thing these 5.4 3v's needs is bigger cams. second is bolt ons, and third is porting.

if you do all of the bolt ons first you get more reward for the cams. i have all of the boltons and the next step us the cams.

if you are a mudder ...127350

if you are towing ......127100 remember the engineers have realized the largest gains ever with just cams.

same but more horses 127150

street performance 127300

make note of the rpm band of the cams. and also the advance to retard range.

the 127100 has 100- 128 degrees or 14 degrees advanced to 14 degrees retard for a 28 degree range. thats what the VCT does for you.

the 127350 has a 31 degree range.

your motor will require forgings and other mods for max hp and more than 6000 rpms. it isn't cheap.


it is hard for me to quantify just how much rthese cams are holding you back.

we all know the rwhp dynos are disapointing at the least, especially for all of the mods we all have. for me to add everting short of electric water pump and still only get 325 fwhp at the track, it obvious something is wrong. it's the 176/198 duration @ .050 / .436 lift cams in these motors.

also the 4.6 3v guys are finding it almost impossible to get 300+ rwhp SAE even with turning theirs higher. CAMS

if you want to keep it as cheap as possible, and want some gains then get the smallest cams and enjoy the torque these 5.4 can have. $1100.00 for the cams/springs right now. the price will drop with time as long as ford sticks with MOD 3v's. no need for expensive upgrades.

 

Which one of those cans can provide more low end torque ?
Will be that one the best option to lower 0-60mph times ?

Thanks Assasinator .

 

i need to add one more thing about these profiles and why they are different.


the comp engineers noted the intake valves are particularly light. if you look at the specs/dimensions of the intake valves you note the tiny stems and overall small size and weight. this gave comp-cams a rare opportunity to plat with ramp rates, or the acceleration off of the seat.

i pointed out the .200" mid lift values as impressive. In particular the most agressive i can remember is about 110 @ .200" degree for a 222 @ .050 cam profile. these cams have a 169 degree duration at .200" for a 222 @ .050 cam.

what that means is, the cams lift a little off of the seat, and immediately WHACK to full open. spring are mandatory not really just a suggestion. there is (IMO) a good probability of valve bouncing on the cam lobe with stock srping at open and close. opening is not going to hurt anything as the cams will retard away from the piston at higher revs, but closing on the exhaust cycle is not to be fooled with. PTV crash won't be the cam's fault. im mt experimentation on the dyno sim i was able to appriach the ramp angles with max lift cheaters to check PTV and bounce issues. it took a large soring like the comp cams 26123 specs to keep it safe at higher than 6000 rpms.


my readings in ENGINE MASTERS magazine show the same thing where the followers bounce at lift and seating. that magazine is fantastic reading. in all of my days fooling with these things, they have it right. they explain pulse tuning, valve events, and velocity vs. total volume filling. get it and study it. walmart sells it.

 

Can you answer those Assasinator ?

Which one of those cans can provide more low end torque ?
Will be that one the best option to lower 0-60mph times ?

 

your needs are different than most... you already have the idea and the gearing it takes.

here is my final combo. it is a word document with all of the combo pictures. this is what it takes for 500 fwhp with 3v. the heads are ported.

250 cfm @ .500"
269 cfm @ .600" intake

195 cfm @ .500"
208 cfm @ .600" exhaust

these are fox lake numbers. there might be better from elsewhere at some point. we will never see 300 cfm from 3v. maybe 270 some day.

http://home.att.net/~bill.fisher/5_43v500hp.doc

 

i haven't entered the specs for all of their cams.

 

"your needs are different than most... you already have the idea and the gearing it takes."






Didn't get it ?

 

It looks like these cams can be changed without pulling the heads, correct?

What about the springs?

Are they held with ordinary retainers?

If so, can you use the Air Pressure in the Cylinder trick to hold the valves up while changing the springs?