? for those who removed rear 4x4 block
? for those who removed rear 4x4 block
How hard was it? Is it a 2' drop? Do your shocks still work well, and how much did handling improve? Do any of you have the rear Heliwig sway bar? and does it still fit fine?
Just do it! I don't recall reading anything bad about doing it.
i'm sure the sway bar will still work fine.
*DISCLAIMER* I have no personal exprience with removing the rear blocks on a 4X4 or experience with the rear sway bar. This statemen was simply to give condifence in removing the blocks.
i'm sure the sway bar will still work fine.
*DISCLAIMER* I have no personal exprience with removing the rear blocks on a 4X4 or experience with the rear sway bar. This statemen was simply to give condifence in removing the blocks.
It is a 100%, no questions asked, 2" drop. If you have a helper it will be easier, the rear end is heavy and cumbersome, thus hard to get to line back up with the pins when going back with it. No problems so far!
I did this mod recently and have noticed the rear seems stiffer than it used to. Looking into new shocks that would fit a 2wd. i believe the shorter shock should help... anyone else run into this? i still havne't gotten pictures of the truck lowered- been busy with everything else...
The biggest difference I noticed was the truck was 2" lower in the rear and maybe just a tad stiffer.
Must have tools are a floor jack, a 2 pound hammer and big screw driver(excluding the obvious).
Also, keep in mind when going for parts that there are 2 different sizes of u-bolts for the heavy payload pack and normal payload.
Must have tools are a floor jack, a 2 pound hammer and big screw driver(excluding the obvious).
Also, keep in mind when going for parts that there are 2 different sizes of u-bolts for the heavy payload pack and normal payload.
I did it, zero issues, see gallery for a side shot. It sits great, maybe .5 to 1" higher still in the rear. Its a genuine 2" drop. Didn't affect rear handling at all, shocks still work "fine" but then again they are stock and they sucked before and they still suck now, I want Bilsteins. I don't have a rear sway bar.. I think thats all your questions. It took me all of 15 minutes doing it by myself using an impact, a hammer and a floor jack. I didn't even replace the U-Bolts so right now they are sitting there w/ the excess length sticking and the nuts spun past right up to the end of the thread. I wanted to make sure I liked the ride and stance and now that I do, next time I have the Sawzall out I'm cutting off the excess and touching up the face w/ a grinder to make sure there are no sharp edges.. totally free mod.
Jerry
Jerry
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Originally Posted by JerryK
I did it, zero issues, see gallery for a side shot. It sits great, maybe .5 to 1" higher still in the rear. Its a genuine 2" drop. Didn't affect rear handling at all, shocks still work "fine" but then again they are stock and they sucked before and they still suck now, I want Bilsteins. I don't have a rear sway bar.. I think thats all your questions. It took me all of 15 minutes doing it by myself using an impact, a hammer and a floor jack. I didn't even replace the U-Bolts so right now they are sitting there w/ the excess length sticking and the nuts spun past right up to the end of the thread. I wanted to make sure I liked the ride and stance and now that I do, next time I have the Sawzall out I'm cutting off the excess and touching up the face w/ a grinder to make sure there are no sharp edges.. totally free mod.
Jerry
Jerry
So you said the back is still .5-1.0 higher in the rear after the block removal? OK so if I ditch my blocks and still use my Ground Force shackles and use the bottom hole I should be about dead level in theory? Right now with using the top hole i actually got 1.5" of drop not 2".
Thanks.
Originally Posted by AirborneRacer
Jerry,
So you said the back is still .5-1.0 higher in the rear after the block removal? OK so if I ditch my blocks and still use my Ground Force shackles and use the bottom hole I should be about dead level in theory? Right now with using the top hole i actually got 1.5" of drop not 2".
Thanks.
So you said the back is still .5-1.0 higher in the rear after the block removal? OK so if I ditch my blocks and still use my Ground Force shackles and use the bottom hole I should be about dead level in theory? Right now with using the top hole i actually got 1.5" of drop not 2".
Thanks.

1.5" MIGHT be too much.. I could try to check tonight w/ a tape measure..
Originally Posted by JerryK

1.5" MIGHT be too much.. I could try to check tonight w/ a tape measure..
I took the blocks out of mine with no regrets whatsoever. If it stiffened up at all it was minimal. I also have the Hellwig sway bar, and the combination of sitting (nearly) level and having the sway bar on is great!
One thing to remember is you will need to readjust your headlights after removing the blocks. I used tape on the garage door to mark where the beams hit before and then adjusted the lights down to that point afterward.
Originally Posted by AirborneRacer
Yeah if you could check for me i would appreciate it since i wont be back home form Korea for anothe 1 1/2 months. That why I mentioned removing the blocks and using just the bottom hole(est 1") of the shackle rather then the top(1.5"). Bottom hole would be around and inch I will guess and romoval of blocks so around 3" total. Would that be level to front at stock height or a bit to low? Curious about that. Thanks man.


