Ok here is the dilema. I have my 2005 F-150 all wired up and power windows installed. Problem is i need to find a Keyed ACC port to tap into so that power isnt going to the windows 24-7. Other problem is how do i connect my connection to the fuse box. I purchased a fuse bridge wich looks like a fake fuse with a cable comming out of it but it was way too big for my truck so it didnt work. Are there small fuses in this type. Also where are the Keyed fuses located at. In addition the power windows are pretty slow on the up side are all after market kits like this? Anyways i love this board its always tons of help and thanks again to everyone.

 

Anyone?

 

just use the radio fuse the radio will only work when the key is on.

 

Hook it to the ignition wire under the steering column. Blue/Green wire. Easy to access. Separate the insulation and use the 'spread wire, push new wire through' method. Be sure to tape it up securely. Use an in line blade fuse positioned where you can access it.
Chris

 

so there will only be one blue/green wire under the steering column? If you know where a loose cable is that i can tie into let me know it has to be atleast 25 amps bc of the current the line will be pulling.

 

The only blue/green wire under there is rather heavy; it is the primary wire that is powered up when the key is on. I am unsure about the 25 amp being the correct draw for power windows. Four doors, all at once should draw about 17 amps maximum.

The best way to power something 'piggy' of power is with a 10 gauge fused direct from battery wire, with a relay to control it. That way you only draw a fraction of an amp from the ignition on wire.

Or tap the ten gauge light green and violet wire that runs right next to the blue/green wire under the column. That is the always hot battery wire.

You use the strip, spread, and wrap method of putting the main power wire for your windows there, using a relay. Then use a light wire for the trigger from the blue/green wire. That way all the load is on the big wire from the battery (it can handle almost any normal draw) and the 12 gauge ignition wire is just used as a trigger, almost no draw. Although the 12 gauge wire can handle 20+amps.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-t7lRyOs...h/kb326.html#A

Is the basic way to hook up a relay so a light positive can trigger a heavy positive charge. I use a relay attached to the radio harness (aftermarket radio) so that my windows are 'hot' on accessory as well as key on. I ran a single 10 gauge wire into my truck cab straight from the battery which I use to power my seats/windows/mirrors/amp without even touching the factory harness.
My Powercode alarm, keypad, homelink and other extras I power from the Light Green/Violet wire.
Chris