Josiah, its about damn time you lifted! Just kidding!

Ummm, the process was pretty straight forward, all you really need is:

Air tools
Good Torque Wrench
4 jacks (heavy duty)
Sears coil spring compressors $39.99 # 00947057000
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00947057000
I read my instructions before i did the work
Fabtech Instructions click here

If you are going to get new gears, you can save money by taking the front diff to the shop for a bench job...you could save a couple hundred bucks here.

To be honest with you everything was fairly easy if you can spin a wrench, just follow the directions and you should not have any problems. I cant think of anything that gave us problems when we did my truck and there was no magic tool that we needed either. You should be ok, just make sure youget it aligned after you install your NEW tires. Let me know if you have any questions i know this is not 'very' helpful but you should be ok installing it yourself...make sure you take pics while installing!

Sal

 

Exactly what I was thinking.

 

Sal, hows it going with the work of art you park in your driveway. Don't worry, I will definitely take pics. I'll see how I like it without regearing, and if it's not to my liking, I'll go ahead and regear if I can get it for under $1k. How difficult is it to seperate the differential from the axle. I am going to try and do it without air tools and I'll try to get a hold of a torque wrench. Air tools will cost me more than to have it done. Sal, what do you think of trying to stuff 37's under there with only the 6" lift for the time being, until I can get an add a leaf to throw under there. Will it fit at the very least, I am not going to offroad until it's properly fitted. I can't get 35's because they're all out of the size I want. Thanks again Sal.

Ruther, what cutting are you talking about?

 

Regear for 2004-06 F150 4x4=$1100 at Rear End Specialties in Santa Clara. It will be well worth your money. If you think the mpg is bad now, wait till you lift with the stock gears. Plus your power will be much better.

 

Really? Im pulling better gas mileage than those at stock heights with 'stock' tires.

 

Look at page #6 and page #11

http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/pd...on%20Sheet.pdf

Not too bad though.

 

It should fall short of 1k being that I have them do "benchwork" as Sal suggested. If the 37's are used, I'll think of regearing to 4.88's, and I'll also be considering the true-trac. At what average mileage point do the LS clutchpacks need replacing, I wish I could swap the rear ls to the front and buy the truetrac for the rear.

 

Yes, you will need a SawZall for that, I forgot.

Separating the CV Axles was easy, its part of your lift process. I think there were like 6-8 bolts? I cant remember but the instructions says mark them so when you replace they are still in line (dont know if it makes that big of a difference but I did it anyways)

You should be ok without air tools. I don't *think* you can stuff 37s with only a 6 inch lift, I dont know for sure but from what everything i have ever read on this site it is not possible without them rubbing.

My Truck is doing great, execpt I hit a concrete pole when i opened my drivers side door while I was parked so now I have a door ding!!

 

Sal, I added the 1-1/2" AS but it gave me 2" of lift. Do you think I'd be able to stuff 37s? If not, body lift time.

 

You want my Ding King? It will save you some cash and it does work as long as the ding isn't stretched metal. In other words, if it looks like it will pop right out, it will. Just mail it back when you're through.