I can't wait to see how it matches with the factory wood grain.

 

If you fell that you need a puller, your friendly Azone will loan you one! I think you propably will not need it. The last couple of steering wheels I pulled came off pretty easy although they were not on these trucks.

 

Hey Fellas,

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I also look forward to seeing Quintin's pictures.

HOWEVER, some little punk has really thrown a monkey wrench into my plans and hopefully it's not someone on these boards because I'd be a crabby boy.

SOMEONE is driving up the price to unrealistic levels on this steering wheel. They are pure idiots for doing this.

928gt,

It looks like I'm going to have to buy through you if you can get a hold of one of these steering wheels. Woodcorp won't answer my emails. I didn't have time to call them, but I will today and see if they can make one that will match. The price would be $250 ($100 from the cost once I give them back my original) + shipping?

Uh, this is bothersome whoever is trying to make this difficult for me!

Duke

 

I got the pictures today, but I'm still stuck at work for another hour...

On a side note, required tools:

• 8mm (or 5/16, same difference) socket (I used a deep well) and a short (2-4" will do fine) extension. This serves three purposes, first to disconnect the negative battery cable(*), second to remove the airbag retaining bolts, and third to remove the nuts holding the cruise and auxillary radio/climate control switches so you can transfer them to your new steering wheel.
• T50 Torx, 4" or so long extension, and a 3/8" drive ratchet. This is to remove the center bolt that holds the steering wheel on the steering shaft.
• #2 Phillips head screwdriver. This is to remove the cover from your old steering wheel and transfer it to the new one.

(* I didn't disconnect the battery in mine when I removed the airbag. Standard disclaimer applies - I've been doing this for a few years, so I'm comfortable with working on SRS systems and I'm willing to accept the consequences of getting blown up. Theorically, the airbag won't deploy just from being disconnected and connected again, but always, safety first...)

Total time invested, from R&R'ing the steering wheel and taking pictures - About 20 minutes. Pictures coming as soon as I get home...

 

Wow, you are beyond awesome! Thank you very much Quintin. I plan on agressively pursuing the purchase on ebay and then if I lose, I'll order one somewhere. I really want this mod.

So a T50 Torx is just an extension on a rachet? I have extensions, so then I'd be good to go.

Thanks again,

Duke

 

This is what a Torx socket looks like. They come in all sizes and are kind of like a phillips screwdriver on steroids. You can get them in sockets like this, bits for chucks and in screwdrivers. Your best bet is a 3/8" socket like this one that will go on an extention.

 

hmm, definitely don't have one of those. Do they sell them at Home Depot or probably an auto parts store?

Duke

 

Advanced Auto Parts sells a kits of about 10 different size Torx bits. The size you will need is in that kit. I think it runs about $20.00. Lowes, Home Depot, typical hardware stores do not usually sell these becuase they are odd sizes. They normally only have up to T-40.

http://www.partsamerica.com/Default.aspx

 

Okay, first thing's first, disconnect the negative battery cable! I did mine without, but it's your face; I don't want to read about your recovery in the hospital in the general discussion forum in case things go terribly wrong. So disconnect the negative battery cable and wait five minutes or so. After that, you're gonna want to pop the two round button covers off on either side of the steering wheel. Careful work with a flat bladed screwdriver will handle this. Here's a picture of the right side:

And the left side:

As mentioned earlier, the bolts are kinda angled inwards, you won't be able to see it unless you contort and twist your head in there; just feel around with the 8mm socket, you'll find it:

 

With the two 8mm bolts out, pull the airbag away from the steering wheel. Here's what you'll see:

Disconnect the two connectors at the airbag itself by squeezing the locking terminals on the sides (one is facing towards you in that picture on the black connector) and prying the connectors away with the flat bladed screwdriver you used earlier to pop the circular button covers off the steering wheel. They're color coded, so you won't get them mixed up going back together, black to black, grey to grey. Follow the yellow wiring from the airbag back to the steering wheel...see the connector next to it? Disconnect that, that goes to your steering wheel controls.

Another picture of the airbag connectors. I forgot to take a picture of it, but look closely in that picture, follow that red wire that has a little screw grounding it to the airbag, see the red connector at the bottom? You'll need to disconnect that too, that's the wiring for the horn button. With the airbag out of the way, loosen the T50 Torx bolt about three or four turns, then take hold of the wheel at 9 and 3 and make a smooth, steady pull. Mine didn't take too much force, I dunno what to compare it to though. It'll come loose with a pop; that's why you leave the bolt in place, so it doesn't fly off and grab hold of one of airbag connectors or something, ripping the clockspring apart. Now, when it pops loose, go ahead and remove the T50 bolt and feed the airbag connectors through their little opening in the steering wheel and you're half way home.

The back of the steering wheel. The cover is held on by four #2 Phillips head screws. See the holes? Two opposite of the opening where the steering wheel switch connectors are, and two directly downwards of those. Remove those, flip the steering wheel over and disconnect the cruise and auxillary radio/climate control switches so you can remove the cover and the little wiring harness that goes to those switches as one complete assembly.

 

The cover removed. Obviously, you'll want to transfer this to your new steering wheel. Just drops down in place.

The back of the steering wheel with the cover removed. See those two silver 8mm nuts? Remove those so you can remove the switches and transfer them to your new steering wheel.

Same goes for the other switches. Don't forget to plug them back up when you reinstall the cover. Then just reverse to reassemble.

I hope this clears things up a little. Don't hesistate to holler if there's anything else I can do.

 

Thanks again Quintin!

I won the bidding on the steering wheel. A couple of idiots drove up the price to $265. But it's still the cheapest I've seen any where and I have yet to actually see one that matched the Lariat OEM wood.

It ships on Monday and I'll do the install next Saturday!

Pics coming soon! Time to run to the auto parts store for some Torx stuff.

Thanks again Quintin. Is it ok if I drop you an email if I run into problems?

Duke

 

Quintin,

Your truck looks way different than my STX did under there. Allegedly, it could be a model year change? 2004 vs 2005? Or???

I don't know. All I know is that I followed my directions and they worked great. That's because I invented them, lol. That reminds me, I have an STX urethane steering wheel sitting here, non cruise type, who wants it!?

 

Well I got the steering wheel in last night. It's in great shape and we'll see if it matches when I pick up the truck this evening. If it does then I'll stop by the autoparts store on my way home and pick up a Torx 50 to use with my rachet and I'll do this install.

Hopefully my stuff looks the same as Quintins.

Duke

 

Way different? How so? Can't imagine too much of a difference, other than no cruise/auxillary radio and climate controls...