I have an 05 XL and have purchased power mirrors to add-on. I am using a switch from an 03 expy.

Any ideas were I can find the factory plugs to ease the hook-up?

I posted this in the electrical section without any response.

 

Hi, I didn't have any luck at the dealer, or here, on finding the correct wire harness. I used two small Molex connectors (if you know computers at all, you have seen them on Floppy drive cables) and soldered them to harnesses from an earlier model Ford. That way I can unplug just the mirror or unplug the mirror harness. This worked well for the 4 wire mirrors, that is, the XLT type.
The color coding stayed the same for many years which simplifed the wiring.
Chris

 

Thanks Chris,

I have used the info you've left in earlier posts to help me get started. I purchased two 4-wire molex plugs from Radio Shack yesterday. I don't have the mirrors here to try them. Will the holes in the molex plugs come close to matching the alignment of the 4 pins in the mirror head?

If so, I am planning on on using them. If not, I am considering removing the plugs from the mirror head and soldering a 4-wire trailer light harness to the mirror head wires. We'll see. My brother-in-law is an electrician and is helping me figure out the wiring. This should greatly improve my chances for success.

Once again, thanks for your help!

 

The connectors I am talking about are the small connectors RBBY for the floppy drive power, not the larger RBBY with round female connectors for the hard drive, CD rom connections. These small connectors are about a half inch wide.

They fit tightly on the 4 pins on the back of the mirror in the mirror socket. The pins are flat and very close together. If you are great at micro soldering you could do it. The small Molex are pressure fit type, not round pin type. They will slide onto the four pins with a bit of force applied. I would be reluctant to pull them off and on a lot of times so I soldered the RBBY wires from the Molex to my short harnesses that I put in the doors. They have disconnects so I could pull them free, to remove the mirror, for example.
You only need three wires. The R Y wire is common to the yellow wire from your switch. The mirror switch does most of the work, allowing you to use only one yellow wire to 4 different locations.

I used a power supply to test the mirrors on the bench and confirm the directions, etc. before installing. I recommend this as of the nine mirror switches I now have laying around, there are three different configurations and two different polarities. The good news is any of these will work, it's just a matter of which way the mirror moves. Several of the ford units reverse the action, Move left to go right. Move down to go up. It depends on where the expected to mount it. The Contour switch that I finally used was actually backwards. I reversed the ground and hot wire inputs and it worked great.
Be sure you fuse the system. It calls for a 5 amp fuse. Since that fuse is shared on the stock power mirrors you could use a lighter fuse on a custom install.
3 would probably do it. Although there is no reason not to use a 5 amp.

Do you have a schematic of the power mirrors? Do you have one from the 'donor' truck?
Chris

 

Yes, I grabbed one from Mitchell's online that helped a little.

We sat down last night and played and tested, and played, and tested, and cursed, and played and tested, and drank.......and ta-da, they worked. Going to install them today.

I am just glad the bench test worked before we had to pull the coke and meth out.....lol

 

2 cups of coffee and about 6 diet cokes do it for me...
I looked through your gallery, nice clean mods. What switch setup is that on the doors? How well do they work at that location?
Also, how do you like that Bazooka? I have one around here that I have considered using instead of the 8 inch single woofer I now use, but was thinking of mounting it pointing up.

 

The window kit was listed as "Autoloc's". You pointed out, in an earlier post of mine, that the looked like the Colibri's. The windows are working well with the switches mounted over the crank holes. I drilled small holes next to the crank holes so I could run the wiring and it not interfer with the rotation of the window crank shaft.

The Bazooka powered sub is perfect for me. I am 43 and like classic rock and country. I like to turn it up a little but not enough where it will drawn the attention of young girls and put my marriage in jeopardy. It compliments the system very nicely. Someone wanting more bass may do well with the 200 amp 8" or 10". I wanted to retain as much of the space behind my seat as possible.