PKF3 and Remote Start Install
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From: Hillsboro, OR
PKF3 and Remote Start Install
I just received my Code Alarm 530 remote start and was reviewing the instructions. I picked it up from Autoalarmpro and it's going in my wifes 03 Expe but I will be doing my F150 soon. She bought me a Code Alarm 670 from www.kcautosound.com and had nothing but great things to say about dealing with him. A plug for them for good customer service!
The CA530 came with a PKF3 bypass module. I think I have a good idea on how to hook it up and what colors go to where on the PKF3. The brown goes to the remote start blue/black. The green TX on the PKF3 goes to the white/green and the Pink RX on PKF3 goes to the gray/orange. The PATS mod is in the steering column somewhere near the keyed ignition. Does that sound right? ARE these wires tapped into or cut? I am guessing tapped into, but I want to do it right so my PATS still works like it was intended to.
Where would be a good place to tap into the 12 volt constant for the PKF3?
Thanks!
DAVE
The CA530 came with a PKF3 bypass module. I think I have a good idea on how to hook it up and what colors go to where on the PKF3. The brown goes to the remote start blue/black. The green TX on the PKF3 goes to the white/green and the Pink RX on PKF3 goes to the gray/orange. The PATS mod is in the steering column somewhere near the keyed ignition. Does that sound right? ARE these wires tapped into or cut? I am guessing tapped into, but I want to do it right so my PATS still works like it was intended to.
Where would be a good place to tap into the 12 volt constant for the PKF3?
Thanks!
DAVE
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
Hey guys. I got an email that showed that there was a link using my site name and it brought me to here. Deeve I'm glad you're getting your first experience with the PKF3. Guess what. You get to deal with it again with your CA-670...lol They aren't very hard.
You need a 12 volt constant for the bypass. Just grab it at the same spot as your ignition wiring. In your programming instructions you will notice that it says to jump your igition wire but don't turn the key on. My trick is that I take a razor blade and run it into the 12 volt constant and the ignition wire. Basically cut into the two to make the connection. All it does is leave a little cut in the shielding but no harm done. First time I hooked one up I even was a little confused. I've always used the Code Securelock bypasses with the ring around the ignition. The PKF3 is a geat piece. It never fails. The ones we install for Ford suck. My installations are perfect except for the damn Ford bypass we have to use. When I get a call to service a remote starter it's always because the theft light is flashing and the damn bypass is screwed up.
I usually finish the remote start then add the bypass module. I always test the starter with the key in the ignition before I install the bypass just to make sure if there are any issue I know it's the starter and not my bypass.
You're CA-670 has a yellow plug in port that your bypass plugs into so you don't have to worry about 12 volt and the brown wire connection. All you need to do is connect your RX, TX, and ground which you find in the four wires that come from your transponder ring.
You're unit should have arrived today but I guess you don't get it till Christmas...lol I tried to make the install as simple as can be. The F150 is very easy. Pretty much like your Expedition. 4 ignition wires, and the rest of the wires such as brake, parking light, lock, unlock, domelight are all in the drivers sill plate. You may not know this but your Expedition's rear hatch release can be found in the passenger side sill plate as a positive pulse large White with Pink Stripe wire. Just test it with your keyless button and a test light. I believe most instruction manuals give you a different wire and you have to go high into the right kick panel. Total pain to get to.
You need a 12 volt constant for the bypass. Just grab it at the same spot as your ignition wiring. In your programming instructions you will notice that it says to jump your igition wire but don't turn the key on. My trick is that I take a razor blade and run it into the 12 volt constant and the ignition wire. Basically cut into the two to make the connection. All it does is leave a little cut in the shielding but no harm done. First time I hooked one up I even was a little confused. I've always used the Code Securelock bypasses with the ring around the ignition. The PKF3 is a geat piece. It never fails. The ones we install for Ford suck. My installations are perfect except for the damn Ford bypass we have to use. When I get a call to service a remote starter it's always because the theft light is flashing and the damn bypass is screwed up.
I usually finish the remote start then add the bypass module. I always test the starter with the key in the ignition before I install the bypass just to make sure if there are any issue I know it's the starter and not my bypass.
You're CA-670 has a yellow plug in port that your bypass plugs into so you don't have to worry about 12 volt and the brown wire connection. All you need to do is connect your RX, TX, and ground which you find in the four wires that come from your transponder ring.
You're unit should have arrived today but I guess you don't get it till Christmas...lol I tried to make the install as simple as can be. The F150 is very easy. Pretty much like your Expedition. 4 ignition wires, and the rest of the wires such as brake, parking light, lock, unlock, domelight are all in the drivers sill plate. You may not know this but your Expedition's rear hatch release can be found in the passenger side sill plate as a positive pulse large White with Pink Stripe wire. Just test it with your keyless button and a test light. I believe most instruction manuals give you a different wire and you have to go high into the right kick panel. Total pain to get to.
Last edited by KCAutosound; Dec 20, 2005 at 01:15 AM.
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Lol..thanks for the help and thanks for getting it out so quickly!!
A couple more questions, You already touched upon it, but I would like some clarification. Where the instructions for the PKF3 say temporarily connect the brown wire to ground, that means just ground it against the chassis, I get that. Then it refers to using a jumper wire to apply power to the vehicle ignition wire . The LED on the bypass flashes once and then on again for three seconds and it's programed.
When it says you connect the constant power to the ignition wire, which two is that? Is it the Lt Green/Violet jumped to the Dk Blue/Lt Green that you connect with the razor blade (tricky, by the way.) If thats it then I think I get it!
I also noticed on this kit that it is set up to not be used with the Tach sensor. From what I understand it is better to use the sensor? If so I will hook it back up.
I also saw that the black and white Neutral Safety Input wire (#8 on the start HArness) was spliced into the ground. Any idea if I can leave it there or should I hook it up?
Thanks!
Dave
A couple more questions, You already touched upon it, but I would like some clarification. Where the instructions for the PKF3 say temporarily connect the brown wire to ground, that means just ground it against the chassis, I get that. Then it refers to using a jumper wire to apply power to the vehicle ignition wire . The LED on the bypass flashes once and then on again for three seconds and it's programed.
When it says you connect the constant power to the ignition wire, which two is that? Is it the Lt Green/Violet jumped to the Dk Blue/Lt Green that you connect with the razor blade (tricky, by the way.) If thats it then I think I get it!
I also noticed on this kit that it is set up to not be used with the Tach sensor. From what I understand it is better to use the sensor? If so I will hook it back up.
I also saw that the black and white Neutral Safety Input wire (#8 on the start HArness) was spliced into the ground. Any idea if I can leave it there or should I hook it up?
Thanks!
Dave
Last edited by Deeve; Dec 20, 2005 at 05:46 AM.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 627
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
You just basically connect the Violet/Green and the Blue/Green wires together on the ignition harness. That's why I say I use a razor blade to jump them.
Tach sensing is totally up to you. I have had great luck with running the systems tachless. Tach sensing requires you to run a wire to your fuel injector wire on your engine. I hate having to run a wire to the engine so I usually try the tachless sensing. If you have a problem with the engine not starting then you may need to connect it.
As for the Black/White Neutral Safety wire I always ground it. No need to connect it to the actual wire in the vehicle. Some of the older S-10 pickups and blazers, jeeps and some of the other vehicles had a problem of starting even if the owner didn't put the vehicle into park completely. That's where the neutral safety switch problems came in. Not needed anymore on alot of newer vehicles. Just ground this with your Black ground wire.
Tach sensing is totally up to you. I have had great luck with running the systems tachless. Tach sensing requires you to run a wire to your fuel injector wire on your engine. I hate having to run a wire to the engine so I usually try the tachless sensing. If you have a problem with the engine not starting then you may need to connect it.
As for the Black/White Neutral Safety wire I always ground it. No need to connect it to the actual wire in the vehicle. Some of the older S-10 pickups and blazers, jeeps and some of the other vehicles had a problem of starting even if the owner didn't put the vehicle into park completely. That's where the neutral safety switch problems came in. Not needed anymore on alot of newer vehicles. Just ground this with your Black ground wire.