The power windows are on a 30 amp breaker and apparently on a switched circuit. I want to move them to an unswitched circuit, I'm assuming at the fuse box. Any hints, tips, etc on where to get a good power source there and how to make the changeover in a semi-elegant manner? Bottom line is I think I want to get unswitched power to the window circuit breaker. I'm not sure what the back of the fusebox looks like or if what I'm thinking is possible, and I've been reluctant to go through the contortions of pulling the fuse box without knowing if it would be a feasible project. I do know enough about wiring and circuits to make it work, if I know what's available to work from!

Thanks to anyone that can shed some light - based on what I've seen I'm thinking Chris might know something.

- Lee F.

 

You have a supercab? I think you have factory power windows. They will run the battery down if you move them to unswitched.
They have lights in them and the lights are always on when the key is on. At least the set I have sitting here (supercrew switch set) is lit up if it is powered.

Could you get what you want just by delaying the power to the windows a fem minutes? or must they be hot at all times?
Chris

 

Chris -

Yes, it's an FX4 SuperCab with factory windows. I forgot about the lights in the switches! I'm glad I asked -

What I want to be able to do is use the windows without the key. I had thought about using a relay that was energized whenever the interior lights were on, but it seemed easier to just go with "always on". Since the lights are a drain, maybe the relay method is the way to go? Of course then I'd need unswitched high current power AND a place to tie the relay signal into the interior lights . . . .

Thoughts?

- Lee F.

 

One solution is to put a capacitor in the circuit for the windows. Would hold power for about 2-10 minutes after you key off.

Another is to put a manual window power switch with a diode in the circuit. That would allow the use of power windows as long as the switch was hot. Still quite possible to forget the switch and leave the truck to run down over night. Although the little lights would probably take 60-90 hours to drain the battery.

An express module, one of the ones that do two or more windows could be added and a hidden switch (doesn't have to actually be hidden, just an extra) could be used to lower or raise the windows, or just one window, at the touch of a button.

A relay could be added with a timer circuit.

All of these would work, most look like a pain to install.
Depends on how much you want it.
None of the methods are terribly expensive. Capacitor would be about 30-80 bucks. Express module can run 3.00 to 50.00 depending on which one.
Relays are cheap.
Timer circuits are not hard to wire up.
Finding power under the dash is easy. It's under the steering column, and by the passenger kick panel fuse box.

Sure you want to bother?

 

Nope - I'm not sure I want to bother, but I think I'll ponder some more. I've already run 4-gauge to a plug inside the grill opening for jumper cables or an inverter (and maybe someday a winch in my existing front receiver). I've also mounted a "power port" type plug on the back side of the front license plate bracket for cigarette-lighter plug accessories, like my 12V thermoelectric cooler when I have it on a cargo carrier in the front receiver, or my pop-up camper at sites without electric, and I plan to put a power port somewhere in the bed, too. So the idea of a little wiring doesn't bother me.

I just like the idea of being able to raise and lower the windows without a key - in the summer & while camping I leave them down as much as possible, and it's a pain to go get a key when closing up for the night or when it starts to rain. It may not be worth the trouble, though. If I just ran relay-switched power to the "upstream" side of the existing breaker, any idea what else I would be energizing when the relay was "on"?

 

Maybe I should just buy a spare key and hide it in the truck . . . .

 

That is a better idea than you think. The local locksmith can cut you a three dollar key that will NOT start the truck. Only good for opening doors, or turning on the ignition. No PATS chip.
Leave that in the interior and you always have a key for the doors, radio, tailgate. But no one can steal your truck with that key.
Chris

 

That extra key idea now sounds great - I guess the right blank shape exists in "non-PATS"?

If so, that's perfect. I already use my ashtray for padlock keys, etc. - one more wouldn't hurt.

 

My lock guy offered to cut a door key for me. That is why I mentioned 3.00

If your local guy does not have the plain key (any real locksmith will have them) you could buy a blank PATS key online, and just never bother to program it. It would drive a thief crazy. He would have the key in his hand, but the truck would not start…

I bought one of the PATS keys off e-bay for about 9.00 shipped, had it cut (1.50) and programmed it myself, a one minute job if you have two already programmed keys.
I just wanted to have the third key to stash so if we lose a key we are not at the mercy of the local dealership to program the keys. With only one, you have to have them program it
Chris

 

Thanks, Chris -

I'm gonna go with the "dumb" key idea - I'm glad I asked!

 

Was at the local hardware store for other chores and remembered to ask about the key. They matched the blank by eye & 10 minutes later I had a key that I can keep in the truck to work the windows and tailgate - but without the chip it won't start the truck.

Thanks for the idea, Chris!