I just installed Autoloc power windows in my 2005 F150 XL 4x4. Installed on the driver side went fine. Was finishing the passenger side and went to test it when I discovered a defective switch. No spring tension on the rocker and rattles inside switch.

I have contacted the seller from Ebay to try and get it straight. In the mean time, I need to know if the passenger side window should work from the second driver's side switch, without a switch being plugged in on the passenger side? I ask this because the passenger window does NOT work from the second driver's side switch. I'm trying to find out if the defective switch is my only issue or do I have another problem?

PLEASE HELP!!!

 

is the rocker properly inplace? my used to come out from time to time and it would not work, you got a linky of the swithces????

 

Thanks for you reply!

No, there is not a rocker plugged in on the passenger side. The rocker switch is shot. Both rockers on the driver's door are securely connected.

 

The switch on the passenger side is part of the circuit. It needs to be in place and if not working, at least not harming. Since it is not there you do not have a complete circuit.

I assume you tested the motors before you put them in. You should be OK.
You can test the switch by swapping the driver and passenger switch on the drivers door, if you want. But the odds are good that it is just one bad switch.
Best of luck with it.
Chris

 

Thanks for the help Chris.

I have pulled the switch apart. There are broken contacts and springs inside. The box I received was open and it looks like someone had disassembled the switch before. I am hoping this is my only problem. I made a lot of assumptions during the install and did not test the motors. I found a comparable window kit online cheap. I am going to buy it to keep incase components from the installed kit need replacement down the road.

Now, if you are up for the plucking of some audio help, may I e-mail you for some more info?

 

I am e-mailing with another person with switch problems right now. Seems to be a rash of them lately. I wonder why?

You can e-mail me if you want, I try to answer all of the ones all the questions, but no promises on how much I know about your particular stereo. I've only worked on two stock New Model head units.
Still, ask away...

Chris

 

I am fixing to try to put power windows in my STX. How did the autoloc's do, besides the switch problem? How is the speed? Should I go with another brand such as SPAL or TRACKPRO?

 

Chris, if you don't mind I am going to post my question here (for the benefit of anyone else that can use the knowledge you may share).

I have just installed an Audiophile head unit in my 2005 regular cab XL. I have tried looking for sub options that will not use up all the storage room behind the seat. The best I have found is the 6" powered Bazooka tube. I just want to acquire enough bass for normal listening volume levels, nothing too loud.

I have ordered the factory harness that plugs into the back of the HU for the amp. Is it just a straight hook up from there or are there other components I may need? I have seen postings that mention line-out-filters and things as such that are foreign to me.

 

The Autolocs seem to work well. They come with plastic pods the window switches can be mounted in, then attached to the door panels. I mounted these pods over the window crank holes and like the way the finish product looks.

I was very dissatisfied with the instructions that came with the Autolocs. The colors of the wires coming from the motors did not match the wiring in the harnesses they plug to. I would have liked to have seen more detail in the mechanical and electrical instructions.

The fact that one of the switches was defective didn't help much either. I bought the kit new off EBay. When I tried to call tech support, they requested an invoice number from an authorized Autoloc dealer before they would help. Now I have to rely on the EBay merchant to take car of my switch issues.

If you go with Autoloc from EBay, consider looking at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll..._BIN_Stores_IT, or do a search on seller "stereoinstallparts". They are selling a kit with components that look identical to the Autolocs for a third of the price (about $40.00 plus shipping). I just ordered one of their kits so I would have spare switches and motors should mine ever go bad. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need anymore info.

John

 

The ones in the picture are Colibris not Autolocks. Autolock sells them as their own 'deluxe' but again, Colibri makes them. I have them in my STX. I like them a lot better than the Spals, which are much lighter with a smaller motor.

Speed on any 'crank turner' window will not be as fast on our trucks as the factory because the factory used 8 turns rather than 6 turns to raise or lower the window. You may notice that you are turning for a long time when you use the hand crank. That means they are Lower geared. Two results. One, they use a little less power when you crank them with a SPAL or Colibri, etc. and Two, they are slower than some windows on other cars.
The good part is the slower run means the motor will probably last longer, although they seem to last a long time anyway.
I have express up and down on both my windows, so I don't really care about the time as much as I do on my other cars.
Touch it and forget it.

I have had my power windows in for a year and am very satisfied with them.
I think you will be too.
Chris

 

I always prefer the forum because as you say, lots of folks benifit from all the help everyone supplies. I do a suprising amount of e-mail though, with people that are just not comfortable posting openly. And with questions that are not strictly speaking on-topic in here. I don't mind, but like you, I prefer the open input.

As to the question, I am not into loud noise. I lost enough hearing from firearms and race cars when I was young, I treasure what I have left.
So I put a 100 watt amp in my truck, just for my 8 inch sub. The sub is in a box (super cheap, get them anywhere) that sits behind my passenger seat. I still have 60% of the back storage area free, which works out for me as I have a hard tonneau.

The Amp is hidden behind the black plastic wrap at the bottom of the center of the dash. It pops out, and there is room to hide a 100-200 watt amp. As my head unit puts out 200 watts for the four Pioneers in the door (and my two little tweeters) that gives me 300 watts nominal. A lot for a regular cab.
About the same sound per cubic foot as a 450 watt amp in a SuperCrew driving a 10 inch woofer. Way more than I need.
Chris

 

Ok Chris! so your telling me that the autoloc deluxe set is made by Colibri right? and that's the best ones to use. Thanks for your help.

 

I hate that kind of question.

Best to install, the factory setup. Build your own harness. Cost something like 200 bucks with shipping, from WWW.fordparts.com. Part numbers have been posted by HamRadio.

You would need to add switches. That could be aftermarket switch set. Factory switch set, or even a nice set from a wrecking yard.

Cost will probably total about 250-265 total. You might do better, or worse.

Second best, not much to choose. Autolock replacement set. Last time I checked, they ran about 250 plus switches. They are probably exactly the same as the factory, but with instructions...

Third best Colibri kit. Sold by Autolock dealers usually called the Deluxe, but unlike the other Autolock or factory, they work by turning the window crank. They run between 65-140bucks. Very wide spread in price.

Fourth best 'hot rod' straight window kit. They are faster than the Colibri but are hard to install, according to two posters who used them. They usually cost between 120-180 off eBay. If they were easier, and cheaper they would beat the Colibri. Since price and convenience DO matter, they drop to fourth.

Fifth best. Spal or clone. Slowest, smallest. Not the cheapest as the Colibri kits seem to be flooding the market.
Prices tend to run 85-120 shipped.

Caveat;
Everybody makes a bad part now and again.
Switch kits are much the same with ALL the kits, as the motor maker is NOT the switch maker. You can get the best switches with the worst motors, or vice-versa.
Colibri made the best quality motors and mechanism for 'crank turners'. That was last year. For some reason they are flooding the market. Did quality drop? I don't know.
You pays the money, you makes the choice.
Chris

 

Nice post