I just found out about a generic kit that a local shop has for power windows and locks and they are charging $379. That includes parts and labor. Does that sound good or is there a better route to take?

 

sounds like a good deal.

 

If they warranty their work, sounds like a good price to me....

 

I'm gonna disagree, just because the job really isn't worth the 300 plus labor change on this truck.
Putting Power Windows in a Reg/Supercab is a very easy, fun job. As to warranty, it's like the warranty on a fuse. The cost for the warranty is way more than the fuse is worth.

To pull the door panels (a great time to put in power locks, or speaker upgrades) is a ten minute job per side. Twenty the first time. These door panels go off and on easier than any I have ever done. Lots of posts with VERY exact instructions.

The 'generic' kit is the light duty SPAL. They work. The much higher power Colibri kit sells for a little more 129 list, I paid 48 (lucky buy on e-bay, 69-79 is more common) I 'cheated' by putting my window switches in the center, as I was used to that on sports cars I have owned.
I prefer it as my passenger can drop my window as I approach ranger stations and toll booths.
But it's about as easy to put them in the doors. I use express up and down and center mounted is totally safe for kids, pets, idiots.

Putting in a good keyless is another 50 bucks on e-bay, and adds a couple hours to the job. That's mostly figuring out the instructions... The actual work is a snap.

I put tweeters in my crank holes, and they work nicely. I also upgraded the speakers in the four doors. The total cost of windows, locks, express up/down, speakers and tweeters was way less than 300.00.

And anyone that as a tool box can do it in an afternoon.

KagNagit is a young guy without a lot of experience; he did it in a day.
You can substitute an alarm for keyless for about the same money.

Of course if you really hate to do car work, and have no tool useful buddies, buying it is your only choice.
But be very sure the shop knows how to do the new model truck. I have seen morons that work in these places PRYING on the doors…

Also tearing up the underside of the dash because they didn’t know the dash is modular and can be taken apart in minutes.

If you have any questions, a dozen or of the posters here can help.
Best of luck either way.
Chris

 

Whoops, forgot to add the one big problem area on putting locks/windows in the STX!

On some trucks (mostly 4x4) instead of a simple rubber boot, they use a big boot fastened to a white block. On those, unless you just add a new boot (salvage yard 1.00 to 5.00) it is very hard to do.

Worse news, on places that you pay to put them in, after you drop it off, they discover this block, and charge more for bypassing it. About 100 more at the local place I checked with a friends truck.

That place had done one before, and the previous guy they added had just added it to the bill and he made a fuss so they started out by telling my buddy about it. They are an honest shop, and fairly good. Just expensive.

We just pulled a couple boots from a Taurus, 1.00 for both, looked like new, and drilled a couple new holes on each side. Added about an hour to the job, as we had checked it first and picked up the boots the day before.
That darn white block is a pain.
Chris

 

What he said then..... I guess.

 

Say PiggNFord, in case you don't follow many of my posts in the forums I hang out in, my whole posting 'thing' is to suggest how to save money, and still get what you want. You could call it a theme. I always look for the best way that a person can save a buck, but not give up anything significant. Sorta like buying XLT rather than a King Ranch.
Nothing against the guys buying the LT's KR's or even a 'lowly' Lariat

I say enjoy, buy what you want, and go first class if that's your desire. More power to you.
(I mean 'you' in the editorial sense, of course you know that).

POSH is great, but not for everybody. It's not even about actual net worth, etc. Some guy may want to toss the 10,000 he saved on the truck into a collection plate.

Or maybe he spent the last disposable dollar buying a new truck.
Either way, I'm always looking for the best bargain for folks.

I know that's against the common philosophy of new car/truck buyers but what the heck.

Chris

 

Hey Chris,

I never did do those one touch up/down windows that we had talked about earlier. If I took the modules out of another Ford like you suggested, would they have that "hinge" feel that the OEM stock one touch down has. Where it feels like you push through a second switch to have one touch down?

 

Nope, it feels like a caddy, Buick or earlier Lincoln switch.

No tactile sensation because there is no change to the factory switch.

Takes about six or seven uses to get used to it if you use it express both ways.
Funny to watch.
You touch the switch and the window starts down. You change your mind and reverse the switch, and of course, it starts to close.

What you are supposed to do is keep pressure on till it gets where you want it if you don't want to use the express. Or if you change your mind you just push it again in the same direction and it stops.

But the automatic thing people do is reverse the direction... So it starts down, starts up starts down, you swear and then remember how it works... As I say, very funny.

You get over that after you use it a few days.
Of course if you just make it express down that doesn't happen.

Once you get used to it, other windows really irritate you. On my Tracker the windows are not express. Even my very sweet wife swears at them for being too slow (normal windows).
Those windows are a very different type of system and it wouldn't be easy to put modules in that.
Chris

 

chris, what boot are you referring to?

 

Chris,
You are ignoring the fact that not everyone wants to delve into the electrical system of their brand new trucks themselves. He asked was $379 a good deal for that service. I said yes, compared to prices I have seen quoted for this. Do it yourself saves SOME people money, but he obvioulsly didn't want to do it himself, or he wouldn't consider paying the money to have it done.
It was a simple question, so I gave a simple answer.

 

Sure, PiggNFord, I understood all that, I was replying to the tone of your reply to my post, not your original post.

I still disagree on the price. Sorry, the job is not a 6 hour at 50 an hour job. Not for what they are offering.
If they were putting in a premium kit and switches and charging the 50 an hour for even twice the two hours that they will invest it would be better. If you shop around a dozen or so places you will find the spread is about 150-400 for labor for that job.

I believe that most of the people on this forum (I'm also counting the ones that read, but seldom post) are more do-it-yourself than most new car buyers.
Only a small percentage won't/don't want to do anything work on the truck.

Unlike on most import boards, lots of pickup truck owners are willing to do some or all of their own work.
Not as many as on the Jeep/sports car boards, but that's just the way it is.

Chris

 

My "tone" was intended for humor, guess I should have put him next to it. My bad. I read your posts often, you have alot of valuable input on this site. No hard feelings, us "lesser model" owners have to stick together.

 

The wires that go into the door, speakers, power window, power locks, power mirrors go through a rubber boot that keeps water out. This boot is in the door jamb between the front of the door and the body. It's usually gray.
There are a couple shots at these links of the easy to use one.







This is a shot of the hard to work with unit. This one has been 'bypassed' by a guy in another forum. He kinda rolled his own on this.
I didn't get pictures of the one we did with the Taurus boots, but we left the original one alone, and just added a second small boot about two inches below the original.

Of course if you are working on it, or taking it into a customizer to put in windows, you hope you have the simple fast boot.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.php...%2F150plug.jpg
Chris

 

thanks. guess I have the easy to work with boot, as I couldn't possibly imagine any kind of those headaches; when I did my locks I just pulled the wires right through the existing boots.