Chris, how exactly do you remove the boot, is it easy to slip off, and where in the engine bay do the wires come out of, is it hard to access where the boot is from the engine bay or underneath the vehicle?

Since you know so much I might as well ask before I get to it, if you're wiring things for power (Amplifier, Subs, etc), how do you pull up the carpet and how do you get the carpet back in. Also, where would you send the wires through (i.e. floorboard...?) and how would you guide it to the battery (under the vehicle or through the engine bay? In other words, what is the best place to put the wires through, and does it require drilling, I don't want any water in the cab if I'm out fording rivers

 

Yeah, mine were so easy I didn't understand when Bigziff had problems with his.
We finally had to exchange photos.
Same model truck, totally different boots. The one like I (and you) have is a snap. Pull it out on both ends, lace the wires and put it back.

The white block is similar to what I have on my Tracker. On that one I drilled a hole through the white block with a side angle head on my drill...
Chris

 

Lots of possible answers to this.

Assume you want to run a ‘discreet’ power tap. I do it that way, but you can also tap power under the steering column. And at the fuse box. I have done it all three ways for different mods. The discreet wire is the best for big power draws, like my power seats, amp, locks. That way I am not ‘interfering with the factory electrical. That’s just so the dealer can’t complain if I lose some electrical part.

I use an inline fuse (plug in type, any autoparts store) I solder a round ‘yellow’ solderless connector on the end of it. It goes over the battery positive bolt. Very clean and good connection. On the second lead of the inline fuse I solder the ten gauge wire.
That wire I then lace down along various wires to the firewall, and then down the firewall to the bottom of the cab. It is covered with ¼ inch black corrugated tubing, from Home Depot, but you can get it lots of places. It blends in with the factory wiring. I use small black wire ties (good ones) to keep it neat and from any swaying or snagging.

On each side of these trucks there is a plastic ‘runner’ on the door sill. That pops off. If you lie on the ground on either side of the truck and look up at bottom of this channel that is under the door sill you will see various rubber plugs. These are the drains. You can take one out, and put a neat hole in it, then run the wire through it, pull it up into the channel, and put the plug, with wire through it, back into the channel. If I was gonna be fording streams I would silicon it at this point. I don’t do that since I took my old Bronco into five feet of water and found out why you don’t use a flex fan in water…
Anyway, now you have a red 12 ten gauge hunk of power inside the cab. You can use relays (different post) to pipe this heavy power to anything you want.
A relay uses a very small power signal to control a large amount of power. You can tap a relay off any of a dozen places for key on or accessory on, as you like. You can use a ten gauge direct from the battery to power most anything.
No drilling. One ice pick to punch the hole in the little rubber grommet. The side of the grommet is also the rubber to protect the power wire.



Getting the carpet up in a Reg cab is too easy to post about. It’s just laid in there and tucked under. When I had the seats out, you could just pull it up, and tuck it back down.
The runner or channel cover along the doors holds the carpet down. So when you have that up, you are under the carpet.
Chris