2004 - 2008 F-150
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Real Truck

OEM Sub- Getting Power and Ground (& oem mounting bolts)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 29, 2005 | 10:26 PM
  #1  
f150superdave's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
OEM Sub- Getting Power and Ground (& oem mounting bolts)

I am installing the OEM sub in my supercab. I don't have the connector under the rear seat, so I have ordered the pigtail connector kit for the sub and the radio and will make my own harness like everyone else w/ the same issue. I have a few questions about the power though. How is the ground hooked up from the sub? Is there a ring terminal to the body? Where? Also, how is everone getting power to the sub? How to tap into fuse box like stock? Finally, how is the OEM sub mounted? I have the bolts with intergal washers, but what do the nuts look like? Are they the clip nuts? Thanks all for your help!
 
Reply
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 07:49 AM
  #2  
tardman91's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,331
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey, FL
You may do better with these questions if you post this in the audio forum.
I'd like to get some of those answers too.
Are you connecting the sub to the single CD player or the 6 disc?
 
Reply
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 03:50 PM
  #3  
5point4's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
I just recently did this, I had the connector behind the deck but not under the seat(ordered it too). I followed the wires from behind the deck and found out that they go to the drivers side kick panel, and stop at a big connector there, thats where I took over and built the rest of the harness. My 12V I got from one of the constant 12V wires off the ignition switch, dont remember the color, but can get it for you if you want. On the ground, I believe there is a ground behind the drivers side kick panel...same as the big connector with the signal wires coming from behind your deck. I did my truck this way and my brothers, and we have not had any problems, sounds great!!! Let me know if you need any help, help you out the best I can.
 
Reply
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 05:41 PM
  #4  
f150superdave's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by 5point4
I just recently did this, I had the connector behind the deck but not under the seat(ordered it too). I followed the wires from behind the deck and found out that they go to the drivers side kick panel, and stop at a big connector there, thats where I took over and built the rest of the harness. My 12V I got from one of the constant 12V wires off the ignition switch, dont remember the color, but can get it for you if you want. On the ground, I believe there is a ground behind the drivers side kick panel...same as the big connector with the signal wires coming from behind your deck. I did my truck this way and my brothers, and we have not had any problems, sounds great!!! Let me know if you need any help, help you out the best I can.
I have exactly the same thing. They end in the kick panel. How did you tap into the connector? Where did you find the correct pins to put into the conector? What method did you use to tap into the ignition switch? I don't want to cut or modify any existing harnesses or connectors. Thanks!
 
Reply
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 06:21 PM
  #5  
5point4's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
What I did is just used those blue taps, connects two wires together, I did not want to cut any of my factory wiring either, so this was the only other way really, dont much care for it, but it works. I use the same things to tap into the ignition switch, just they were yellow, for the bigger gauge wire. Pin wise, someone posted the diagram out of ford EVTM here, so thats how I knew what wires to connect with what pins. I will try to get this info for you.
 
Reply
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 06:46 PM
  #6  
5point4's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
This is where I got all my info from. I just pulled off the bottom of the steering column(not easy)and found a 12V for power. Other than that the diagram should tell you all. If you need anymore help let me know. Because of harvest season though, sorry if it takes me a while to reply, enjoy
 
Reply
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 07:31 PM
  #7  
f150superdave's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
What do you mean when you say blue taps? Dont these cut into the wire? Thanks for the response.
 
Reply
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 10:51 PM
  #8  
5point4's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
I will try to post some pics tomorrow of everything.
 
Reply
Old Sep 30, 2005 | 10:57 PM
  #9  
5point4's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
they are called scotchloks,

 
Reply
Old Oct 1, 2005 | 05:41 AM
  #10  
Steamin's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Hixson TN
Scotchlocks are crap, but if used right will do just fine. My trick is to squirt in a generous amount of No-Alox before crimping, to prevent corrosion from setting in at the wire connection. You can find No-Alox at any electrical supply store. It's really worth the trouble when you still have good electrical connections a year of two later.
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:27 PM.