I find it hard to believe you're only up to Bad Idea #185!

 

He had to start over. Theres a limit on the number of charecters you can post in one post, he didn't want to be a post *****. So he started all over again.

 

If you want to seriously coat the under body you have to remember that anything has to be seriously prep'ed [like line-x] else you will have pits and not even know its eating through anything.

 

Dzervit - I am thinking of the same project. What quantity of the Quietcoat did you buy?

Can you keep us posted on how much you use to do under cab, rear bed wall exterior and under bed. I'd also like to know if you think it will work to do inside the rear wheel housings.

Are you planning to brush or roll or spray it on? Can you post some pictures of what color this stuff is when it dries?

I remember when I did my 2001 SCREW doors, floor and rear wall with dynamat. I took me two days to take out interior, mat the areas and replace all the interior. I was shocked by the results and how efective it was but I'm not going to do that again with the 04 and I think the center console would make it even more of a task to get the interior out.

I don't think this is a dumb idea. If anyone has ever ridden in a REALLY quiet car you will appreciate how nice it really is. I jsut read that the new S class from MB has over 119 foam, mat and other acoustic elements in the car to reduce road and wind noise.

I doubt we'll get the 150 down to that level but there is a lot of noise coming from the rear cab area and any effort to reduce this will probably give good if not great results.

Keep us posted.

 

anyone who rides in a chevy will appreciate how quiet our trucks are

 

dlewis - I just ordered a gallon this round, since I want to test out the product and see if it works as promised and to get an idea of how much I may need for the rest of the truck. Brushing seems to be the easiest method right now, but *may* go the sray route for the bed & back of the cab as I think it would go much faster and I'd have better control of the thickness. Rear wheel wells included of course.

I love quiet cars. My old LS, our BMW... so very nice. I really loved my truck as well until the performance mods came along, and I realized how quiet the truck really used to be. I want that back and am willing to spend a few hundred bucks & hours to get it there.

 

The comments about riding in a chevy are right on. I rode in a 05 crew cab silverado last week for 10 miles on he interstate, what a loud POS that was, wind noise and engine noise were pathetic.

Dzervit - I'll be waiting to hear how it turns out.

Noise is the reason I have not done intake and exhaust. I'm lucky I have a "go fast" car and the 150 for my utility driver. I did MTtires, magaflow and K&n on my 01 F150 and it turned into one loud SOB.

 

don't have an answer to that, but check out my mustang. http://users.nac.net/crudeau/Stereoinstall.htm

Towards the bottom. THat light blue stuff kicked ****. It was VB1 or something to that effect. I sprayed it on. Took 3 gallons to do what you see. But it eliminated virtually all noise from the back. I would think you are probably using something similiar, but not light blue. This was a visculare (sp?) sound deadening rubber.

 

Visco-elastic polymers is the techie term I guess. I think this stuff is supposed to be black. So you think your blue stuff worked as well if not better than the dynamat?

 

yes. On my page, there is my 00 mustang and I did that one with only dynomat extreme and orignal. Most of the car had two layers. Some three. THe spray on was much much better. It only took the better part of Saturday to install as well (the spray). That was only because of having to tape off, and remove the interrior. The other nice feature is it it is waterproof. So it would be a good undercoating as well. Plus because it is liquid you can get it into places that dynamat just want be able to get installed.

Installing dynamat extreme sucks too. That aluminum backing shreads the hell out of my hands.

 

Looks like a lot of fun guys!

 

Just a thought but it might be easier to remove the back seat, roll the carpet back and apply the sound dampener to the inside of the cab. This will eliminate any chance of water building up and forming corrosion. I would mainly concentrate on the aft bulkhead of the cab and the rear section of the floor. Sound proofing is a black art, sometimes just adding more materials just adds weight. The sounds that will be eliminated depend on the noise frequency vs. type and thickess of the sound proofing. Tell us how it turns out.

Joe

 

tell me about it... I can't believe how many cuts I had.. .not to mention the gooey back sucks the moisture out of your hands & they just hurt & split on their own.

Wookie Joe - weight is of course a concern, thus the switch to this product instead of dynamat or other heavy materials. A 5-gallon bucket of this stuff is only 72lbs, covers more & dries to a lighter weight as well.

Awwww crap! Called for an update on the order... dude on the commercial side says there is a one week or so lead time on the order. Darn it! Maybe a next weekend project if I'm lucky. Now I gotta put up with that horrid AF1 noise longer...

 

D I'm not trying to be a smartarse here but why don't you just remove the AF1? From the sound of most of the post about it the hp gains are really not that great and it to me is not worth the noise hassle. You could probably go back to stock intake and get an x-cal2 and be happier. Save the money on the dynomat and sell the intake and that should pay for the x-cal. Just my .02

 

I've thought about it. I know the power gains are minimal but they are there. I'm sure the g-timer will confirm. I'm all about moving foward to a better goal then taking a step back. Its installed and done. Next issue, noise. Fix it. Make it better than it was before. If that cannot be done, then I'm sure it will come out and sold. I refuse to let anything beat me!