I replaced the plugs today with a fresh set of Motorcraft PZT2FEF4. It took a couple of hours but this was my first experience changing Ford plugs with COP; hard but doable. I started on the driver side with #5 and worked my way back to #8 then I did #1 & #2 and then removed the PCM and the mounting bracket to get better access to #3 & #4. All eight plugs were terrible looking but they all came out in one piece. I used a special plug socket that has the extension built on to it (6” total) and it worked great. When putting the new plugs in I used Permatex anti-seize on the threads and Permatex dielectric grease on the COP. The new plugs didn’t spin in easy as I expected, they went in with quite a bit of friction and I’m guessing it was because of the buildup of rust in the head around the insert. After seeing the plugs that have 25,776 K on them I must say I’m disappointed but I’m sure glad I changed them now and saw the problem first hand; looks like frequent maintenance is the only solution.

#3 & #4 all wide open once the PCM is pulled back out of the way





Still in one piece but definitely not looking good for 25,776 K






tools and other stuff used

 

Here’s a little more insight. My truck has 35K on it and I just got the plugs changed today at the dealership (if they were to break, I want it to be their problem). No breakage.

 

How much did this run you?

 

You sure they changed them? Did you get your old plugs back? What did they look like?

 

I see you followed my lead and moved your PCM out of the way. Good write up by the way and rad pix!

Some questions were asked by others here and they should have read my earlier post on the change out. As you can see moving the PCM forward only took a few minutes and gains you perfect access to the rear plugs. My plugs looked just like yours at 22.5K miles. Now its easy as pie to do this on a regular maintenance basis.

 

I left the PCM and all the wiring in place when I did mine, just 'cause I hate having to move stuff that I think I can work around. Type B personality and all.

 

They looked the same; not a lot of fouling but a lot of rust. I also popped the hood and it was obvious they had done the work. I live on a gravel road, so the motor always has dust on it. You could tell that each coil pack had been removed by the missing dust. I had noticed at about 30K the motor seemed to be idling a little rougher than when it was new. I thought it might have been the tuner, but when I flashed it back to the factory setting, it was still there. The idle is as smooth as new now but I didn't notice any power change. Long story short, this is a reputable dealership and I am confident the work was performed.

Oil change and plugs was $200. This is the first time in my life that I haven't changed my own plugs. I didn't know what to expect, so I put any potential problems in the hands of the dealership while it was still under warranty. I will be doing the next one at 60K myself. I have never left plugs in a vehicle for 100K and I am not starting with this one; I don't care what the factory recommendation is, I will always change my plugs every 30K- 40K miles. With this one, it will be every 25K - 30K.

 

Oh but it does....if big oval is see this (or any of its reps). it reminds them that we chose to purchase their vehicle because of some fancy ad (quiet metal bs or whatever)...notice the term" we chose"... i guarantee i will choose to tell everybody not to buy one of these trucks, i will choose to not purchase another ford ...ever. they build crap! focus back windows are a constant reminder that i should have not bought this truck but i did.the point being we can choose another manufacturer if not treated properly ( remember job 1 back in the 80's) .And when we unload all these disosable engines on the used market ,resale values will sink,meaning your truck aint worth crap when you trade it in.Kinda tuff to swallow when you unload 35-40k for a truck that is only worth 16k in a year and a half(and you still owe 27k) BUMMER

 

Hey Jpdadeo

How did you remove PCM???? Was it simply unbolting two bolts that hold PCM box?

 

post deleted

 

Very simple to do and worthwhile because you’ll end up with more access than you could possible imagine for #3 & #4. You need a 10mm socket and a 10mm wrench. Remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the PCM to the bracket and pull it forward out of the way then remove the three 10mm bolts that hold the PCM’s mounting bracket, done. You don’t disconnect any wires to do this; you just pull it forward out of the way.

 

I did follow your lead Ham and thank you for the detailed write up; it was instrumental, along with Quintin's write up, to success. I didn’t go about it in the exact order you did because I wanted to start on the easy side first so I could get the hang of it since this was my first COP Ford experience. However, other than the order the job was executed in, I took all your advice and tips.

1. Stone cold engine
2. Clean around coils with compressed air and shop vacuum
3. Tie wires and hoses back out of the way to create easy access
4. Remove PCM & bracket for access to #3 & #4 (no PCM wires have to be disconnected to do this)
5. Used specialty plug socket (definitely a plus making the job easier)
6. Anti-seize (Permatex) on new plug threads
7. Dielectric grease (Permatex) on COP
8. Tightened plugs approximately 1/8 turn after firm contact with plug seat
9. Double-checked to make sure all wires and hoses were reconnected.


Link to HamRadio’s full write-up

 

Thanks JP....I'll do that next time...it would be easiler

 

It might sound silly question but i need to be sure that i understand clear..

By jpdadeo " 7. Dielectric grease (Permatex) on COP"

Do you mean that to apply dielectric grease ON where the rust surface on spark plug (by picture) is?

I will try do this weekend since my truck is only 17K (2004 FX4).


Thanks!
YOMAN!

 

I used the dielectric grease on the COP (coil on plug) boot that goes over the plug. I didn’t put anything but anti-seize on the plug, and just on the threads, nothing on the insert portion of the plug