Express Window Question for ChrisAdams or anyone who had done it
Originally posted by sacramentojoe
Chris, I'm interesting in the way you did it. Can you email me at jwhite@ncen.com with directions? Not trying to get all up into this DT530 thingy. Thanks Man.
Chris, I'm interesting in the way you did it. Can you email me at jwhite@ncen.com with directions? Not trying to get all up into this DT530 thingy. Thanks Man.
I never really tried to do 7 modules. I mean, that's a lot of connectors, wires. Doing 4 modules, two windows up and down was a silly looking package. I'm glad it's hidden behind my radio.
I don't want to pull my center out right now, had it in and out too many times on a dozen mods, but I will get a couple pics of the modules anyway.
I will also e-mail you the text file that I sent our other friend this morning.
Chris
the Chris thing is bugging me out. haha. Keep thinking everyone is talking to me.
Chris is common one.
I'd be interested in seeing what it is as well. Depending on the install I may be able to use this when someone wants to just install up/down switches.
could you email it to me as well...
crudeau@ww-supply.com
Thanks,
Chris
Chris is common one.
I'd be interested in seeing what it is as well. Depending on the install I may be able to use this when someone wants to just install up/down switches.
could you email it to me as well...
crudeau@ww-supply.com
Thanks,
Chris
Originally posted by ChrisAdams
Give me a little to take a couple of pics.
I never really tried to do 7 modules. I mean, that's a lot of connectors, wires. Doing 4 modules, two windows up and down was a silly looking package. I'm glad it's hidden behind my radio.
I don't want to pull my center out right now, had it in and out too many times on a dozen mods, but I will get a couple pics of the modules anyway.
I will also e-mail you the text file that I sent our other friend this morning.
Chris
Give me a little to take a couple of pics.
I never really tried to do 7 modules. I mean, that's a lot of connectors, wires. Doing 4 modules, two windows up and down was a silly looking package. I'm glad it's hidden behind my radio.
I don't want to pull my center out right now, had it in and out too many times on a dozen mods, but I will get a couple pics of the modules anyway.
I will also e-mail you the text file that I sent our other friend this morning.
Chris
I more less want my drivers side and passenger side to go up and down at the same time. Could care less about the back windows. hahaha.
Even if you can tell me what products to buy I can get a head start.
Chris
I'm interested in doing this mod also, but I only want express down on all 4 windows, controlled from the drivers door only. I would also like to use the express switch at all 4 locations ( if possible)
I'm interested in doing this mod also, but I only want express down on all 4 windows, controlled from the drivers door only. I would also like to use the express switch at all 4 locations ( if possible)
I did a mock on a table. This is two modules.
The part of the battery is played by a Coppertop C cell. There are plenty of places near by to tape 12 volts. Like the twelve volt feed to the switch assembly.
The part of the ground is played by the bottom of the Coppertop. Lots of good grounds.
The Part of the motor in the door is played by a roll of black tape. This could be the local motor, or any other motor in the system.
The two connectors hanging over the F-150 switch are the wrong size. Dunno where my small ones went. They are a Radio shack thing. These big ones won’t fit in the switch without touching each other. This is bad touching…
If you solder the wires, you can of course tape this kludge up, and make it cosmetic. I was just mocking it up, the wires are stuffed into the fittings.
In one picture the black module at the top is a generic of the other type of module we talked about, for an alarm, etc. Just showed it because it was handy.
Shot of components.

Belly shot of switch.

Shot of mock.

adding more information. What is in the last picture is what you need to make one window express up and express down.
To just make a your passenger window express down to match the drivers window would require one module.
Each module equals one window, one way.
This is enough info in this post to do most any kind of truck/car with power windows.
I also used it to make a seat power auto power one way, but that was being silly.
Some info that might be handy.
On this 2005 window switch;
I tested these with a Volt Ohm meter before I got the factory schematic.
The results on the four switch pin outs.
8 pins word ford right side up
all 8 show continuity at rest
pin top row
1 passenger front down
2 passenger front up
3 drivers front down
4 drivers front up
pin bottom row
1 passenger rear down
2 passenger rear up
3 driver rear up
4 driver rear down
On the little ford modules;
The modules have five wires. Look inside them at the plug in and see they are numbered 1-2-3-4-5
Break the wire that goes between the switch and the DOWN wire on the motor.
Hook the Red wire (1) to the motor side of the break.
Hook the White with black stripe wire (2) to the switch side.
Don’t reverse this.
Power to lower the window comes from the switch, through the module and on to the window motor. In the red, out the white/black.
The Blue/black Or yellow/green in the ones pictured, wire(3) goes to a 12 volt positive source. It must be good enough to power the window motors. I join all my window motors with the hot wires from the module to one large wire, which goes to my fuse.
The yellow wire, (4) is the ‘sensor’ wire. It attaches to the opposite window motor wire. It just has to make a good contact with that wire, don’t break the wire, just solder this to it’s side. This wire tells the module that you haven’t changed your mind and moved the window back the other way.
The black wire goes to ground, with the other ground wires.
That is for a window that you want to go Express down.
The part of the battery is played by a Coppertop C cell. There are plenty of places near by to tape 12 volts. Like the twelve volt feed to the switch assembly.
The part of the ground is played by the bottom of the Coppertop. Lots of good grounds.
The Part of the motor in the door is played by a roll of black tape. This could be the local motor, or any other motor in the system.
The two connectors hanging over the F-150 switch are the wrong size. Dunno where my small ones went. They are a Radio shack thing. These big ones won’t fit in the switch without touching each other. This is bad touching…
If you solder the wires, you can of course tape this kludge up, and make it cosmetic. I was just mocking it up, the wires are stuffed into the fittings.
In one picture the black module at the top is a generic of the other type of module we talked about, for an alarm, etc. Just showed it because it was handy.
Shot of components.

Belly shot of switch.

Shot of mock.

adding more information. What is in the last picture is what you need to make one window express up and express down.
To just make a your passenger window express down to match the drivers window would require one module.
Each module equals one window, one way.
This is enough info in this post to do most any kind of truck/car with power windows.
I also used it to make a seat power auto power one way, but that was being silly.
Some info that might be handy.
On this 2005 window switch;
I tested these with a Volt Ohm meter before I got the factory schematic.
The results on the four switch pin outs.
8 pins word ford right side up
all 8 show continuity at rest
pin top row
1 passenger front down
2 passenger front up
3 drivers front down
4 drivers front up
pin bottom row
1 passenger rear down
2 passenger rear up
3 driver rear up
4 driver rear down
On the little ford modules;
The modules have five wires. Look inside them at the plug in and see they are numbered 1-2-3-4-5
Break the wire that goes between the switch and the DOWN wire on the motor.
Hook the Red wire (1) to the motor side of the break.
Hook the White with black stripe wire (2) to the switch side.
Don’t reverse this.
Power to lower the window comes from the switch, through the module and on to the window motor. In the red, out the white/black.
The Blue/black Or yellow/green in the ones pictured, wire(3) goes to a 12 volt positive source. It must be good enough to power the window motors. I join all my window motors with the hot wires from the module to one large wire, which goes to my fuse.
The yellow wire, (4) is the ‘sensor’ wire. It attaches to the opposite window motor wire. It just has to make a good contact with that wire, don’t break the wire, just solder this to it’s side. This wire tells the module that you haven’t changed your mind and moved the window back the other way.
The black wire goes to ground, with the other ground wires.
That is for a window that you want to go Express down.
Last edited by ChrisAdams; May 10, 2005 at 08:23 PM.
Chris after read what you had said I as well would be interested in doing this mod... I hate the fact that i do not have auto up by have auto down.
When you have few sec and it is not a pain in the a^^ please email as well amiller@rubberduc.com
thanks
When you have few sec and it is not a pain in the a^^ please email as well amiller@rubberduc.com
thanks
Originally posted by sacramentojoe
Well I'm not to worried about 7 modules.
I more less want my drivers side and passenger side to go up and down at the same time. Could care less about the back windows. hahaha.
Even if you can tell me what products to buy I can get a head start.
Well I'm not to worried about 7 modules.
I more less want my drivers side and passenger side to go up and down at the same time. Could care less about the back windows. hahaha.
Even if you can tell me what products to buy I can get a head start.
15-30 bucks on ebay, and you can mount it in the door, drivers side. The switch will be a momentary contact switch, cost you a couple bucks at Radio shack.
Totally easy to do. Hard part is pulling the door panel, and that's not a chore on these. The power for it is at the bottom of the door switch.
Touch the button, and wam open windows.
To do it both ways would take two of the 530T type switches, and two contact switches. 530t does One or Two windows, one way.
Chris
Chris,
Is there a way to change the switches so they are same as the drivers window switch? I would like to have the same type of switch for all four windows when I convert them all to express down. Could you also send me an e-mail with detailed instructions when you get a chance.
mabney4235@ameritech.net
Is there a way to change the switches so they are same as the drivers window switch? I would like to have the same type of switch for all four windows when I convert them all to express down. Could you also send me an e-mail with detailed instructions when you get a chance.
mabney4235@ameritech.net
Total embarrassment. one of the wires is hooked wrong in my mock. I am going to fix that and post another shot. I was writing out an e-mailable set of directions, and just noticed I crossed a wire.
Whoops. That's what comes of doing things in a hurry.
Chris
Close up of wires corrected.

Had a little problem with color correction should be OK now
Whoops. That's what comes of doing things in a hurry.
Chris
Close up of wires corrected.

Had a little problem with color correction should be OK now
Last edited by ChrisAdams; May 10, 2005 at 08:25 PM.
Getting back to something a little more simple, this is a single express module wired up to be express down for passenger front window.
We have to pretend the green wires are going to the motor.
The coppertop is to simulate 12volt, and ground.
With this, you break one wire, the one on the end of the harness, and route it through the module. The other wire gets the yellow sensor wire solderd to it. Power and ground are all thats left.
We have to pretend the green wires are going to the motor.
The coppertop is to simulate 12volt, and ground.
With this, you break one wire, the one on the end of the harness, and route it through the module. The other wire gets the yellow sensor wire solderd to it. Power and ground are all thats left.
looks interesting Chris. Not sure I would go this way, but seems like a pretty easy mod.
One thing I saw though is you said the 530T controls one or two windows, one way. This isn't correct. The 530T controls one or two windows, both ways. The 529T is what only does one way.
Have you been able to get the rear window on one-touch? I haven't looked into hooking it up. I'm sure it's like the sunroof, with the 5volt position sensor's.
One thing I saw though is you said the 530T controls one or two windows, one way. This isn't correct. The 530T controls one or two windows, both ways. The 529T is what only does one way.
Have you been able to get the rear window on one-touch? I haven't looked into hooking it up. I'm sure it's like the sunroof, with the 5volt position sensor's.
05RedFX4 had a good question. I have not taken apart my door panel to see the actual electronics, but can you replace just the other 3 switches on the drivers panel to be the same as the drivers windows?
Is the factory express down controlled by the switch or a relay?
As for express up and down to all windows, it might be easier to install a small rocker switch that you hook up to the two 530Ts that way it is only done when you want them all up or all down.
Also, Crime Guard has a 4 window roll-up OR 4 window roll-down module. It's part number is Au93-4.
Is the factory express down controlled by the switch or a relay?
As for express up and down to all windows, it might be easier to install a small rocker switch that you hook up to the two 530Ts that way it is only done when you want them all up or all down.
Also, Crime Guard has a 4 window roll-up OR 4 window roll-down module. It's part number is Au93-4.
Originally Posted by tmanxx
05RedFX4 had a good question. I have not taken apart my door panel to see the actual electronics, but can you replace just the other 3 switches on the drivers panel to be the same as the drivers windows?
Is the factory express down controlled by the switch or a relay?
Is the factory express down controlled by the switch or a relay?
The four window switches are on one circuit board, which contains the express down components. There are not four separate switches.
Chris


