Express Window Question for ChrisAdams or anyone who had done it
Originally posted by crudeau
It's a pretty easy install. If at first you installed it backwards, and the windows go up when you press down, switch the Switch side of the Harness and walla! By Doing this, ALL switches in the truck become one touch up/down, because you interupted the actuall motor power.
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It's a pretty easy install. If at first you installed it backwards, and the windows go up when you press down, switch the Switch side of the Harness and walla! By Doing this, ALL switches in the truck become one touch up/down, because you interupted the actuall motor power.
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Not at all what the ford module is for.
This is cool if you drive with windows down, and want to roll em up at a stop.
It is also good if you set it to down the four windows on a hot day before you start up.
Not so cool when you forget and down your windows when it is raining, sandy wind blowing. etc.
Funny though.
Express up/down is not for that usage. It's like the express down on your drivers window, but for each window seperately.
Know what your goal is before spending any money.
F150 Duke I supect the setup crudeau used is what you want.
Chris
Originally posted by crudeau
I'm lost, are we not talking about having one touch up/down on all the windows??
What is that these ford modules are doing? ANd can the be used with the alarm that he is installing as well?
I'm lost, are we not talking about having one touch up/down on all the windows??
What is that these ford modules are doing? ANd can the be used with the alarm that he is installing as well?
I think he's trying to do what you did. Which is very cool.
Yes, you can combine the two systems, but boy, you better have a good set of grounds, thick wires, etc. That's a lot of wiring.
The express modules are what Ford used before they 'incorperated' in the switch assembly like your truck would have.
By wiring them in correctly you can make all your windows express down like the drivers window. Or you can add another unit and make them express up. I have only two windows in my regular cab, and use four modules to give me great control over the windows. Makes you lazy.
With the modules you can stop it's process by touching the switch again. If you wanted a window half way down, you would touch the switch for a tenth of a second, and it would start down. Then touch it again in the same direction, and it stops.
You can use the windows regular fashion too, just stay on the button like normal, and it works normal.
Hope that clears it up
Chris
the 530T's do in fact stop though? Actually work the same as the ford windows? you hit the one touch, and if you want it to stop hit the switch again? With the 530T if you hit down, the window doesn't just go all the way in that direction.
You also have to Tap the button to have it one touch, if you hold it for longer then like .75 seconds (don't know the exact length) it functions like a regular window. None one-touch.
I do want to see what the ford module is though. Do you have a wire schemtic for the install? I'm curious if maybe it is easier to install. If it is, I maybe able use them for other installs that I do.
DON'T CONFUSE THE 530T FOR THE 529T. Two different things. The 529T is crap. The 530T is the one with up/down and does two windows.
I've actaully been tinkering with a 529T to get it to work with the 5volt limit switches in my sunroof. Quite a pain in the ***. Been following some diagrams and tips off www.the12volt.com If I can tackle that, next I want to get the power sliding rear window on one touch.
Rear window should have been one touch open from the factory, IMO
You also have to Tap the button to have it one touch, if you hold it for longer then like .75 seconds (don't know the exact length) it functions like a regular window. None one-touch.
I do want to see what the ford module is though. Do you have a wire schemtic for the install? I'm curious if maybe it is easier to install. If it is, I maybe able use them for other installs that I do.
DON'T CONFUSE THE 530T FOR THE 529T. Two different things. The 529T is crap. The 530T is the one with up/down and does two windows.
I've actaully been tinkering with a 529T to get it to work with the 5volt limit switches in my sunroof. Quite a pain in the ***. Been following some diagrams and tips off www.the12volt.com If I can tackle that, next I want to get the power sliding rear window on one touch.
Rear window should have been one touch open from the factory, IMO
I think I'm clear on what they do now. Basically the same thing, except the 530T uses it own power, and seems much much easier to install. Took me 2 hours to install them in mine, and that was mostly because I had never taken the door panels off before so I was a little stumped finding all the screws to get in the panels.
Depends on what you end goal is, on which way you would go. I like the 530T's because of the alarm capability. But if an alarm isn't an issue, and you just want to take off one door panel, then your way is better.
Depends on what you end goal is, on which way you would go. I like the 530T's because of the alarm capability. But if an alarm isn't an issue, and you just want to take off one door panel, then your way is better.
I want a solution that will allow each individual button or switch inside the truck (ie the button on each door) to control the window to go one touch up and one touch down. I want the driver's door to be able to do this also for each window in the truck. Each window should have load protection and be able to change direction of the window in mid lowering or raising and either stop or move in the other direction. (ie the window has been one touched down and I push it to go up instead or stop where it is)
An added bonus is the remote being able to push a button on my keyless entry/alarm/remote start remote and lowering all four windows. Another added bonus is having all four windows automatically go up when the truck is locked from my keyless entry/alarm/remote start remote.
So I'm assuming the Ford modules do the basics and the only added benefit to the 530T is that is allows the remote features too. Both control the windows via the switch attached to the door, in an identical manner?
Each way the items are both installed in the driver's door correct?
An added bonus is the remote being able to push a button on my keyless entry/alarm/remote start remote and lowering all four windows. Another added bonus is having all four windows automatically go up when the truck is locked from my keyless entry/alarm/remote start remote.
So I'm assuming the Ford modules do the basics and the only added benefit to the 530T is that is allows the remote features too. Both control the windows via the switch attached to the door, in an identical manner?
Each way the items are both installed in the driver's door correct?
ChrisAdams,
What area exactly did you look under in eBay for those Ford modules? I've searched and can't find a bit.
Also, my SuperCab would like this express down as well. Do you AIM so as to ask more specific questions without clogging up the board or your inbox?
-Travis
What area exactly did you look under in eBay for those Ford modules? I've searched and can't find a bit.
Also, my SuperCab would like this express down as well. Do you AIM so as to ask more specific questions without clogging up the board or your inbox?
-Travis
More differences:
Ford Module Install:
Only remove one door panel....all work is done in there.
530T Install:
All four door panels removed?? I thought all the work was done in the driver's door for the 530T too and that both moduels were mounted in the door?
Ford Module Install:
Only remove one door panel....all work is done in there.
530T Install:
All four door panels removed?? I thought all the work was done in the driver's door for the 530T too and that both moduels were mounted in the door?
I didn't understand your post.
The timer in most express systems, and in auto raise/lower window modules is usually the same logic circuit.
100 milliseconds means engage.
anything longer, means don't engage.
100 milliseconds of contact after engaged means stop.
100% increase in resistance, means stop.
The weird part is when you put two modules on, one each way, so that when you lower the window, and change your mind, and 'flash' the switch the other way, instead of stopping, it goes the opposite direction! The first time you do this, you find yourself trying to 'catch' the window. First it's going down, then up then down.
Funny to watch.
after you learn how to do it, it's very easy. Start the window down by flashing it. When you want it to stop, flash it again, THE SAME direction. Not the other way. Works great.
Of course most guys just add a single direction module, usually express down for the passenger window.
Express up is kind of a bling bling thing. I like it, but it's not for every one.
Remember, my switches are in the middle of my dash, so express both ways works really well.
You can buy these modules new for about 50 bucks, used on e-bay for about 15 bucks, or nab them from pick a part for typically 1.2-1.65 each. So for an under five dollar upgrade, putting express down into a couple of windows is a bargain.
Chris
The timer in most express systems, and in auto raise/lower window modules is usually the same logic circuit.
100 milliseconds means engage.
anything longer, means don't engage.
100 milliseconds of contact after engaged means stop.
100% increase in resistance, means stop.
The weird part is when you put two modules on, one each way, so that when you lower the window, and change your mind, and 'flash' the switch the other way, instead of stopping, it goes the opposite direction! The first time you do this, you find yourself trying to 'catch' the window. First it's going down, then up then down.
Funny to watch.
after you learn how to do it, it's very easy. Start the window down by flashing it. When you want it to stop, flash it again, THE SAME direction. Not the other way. Works great.
Of course most guys just add a single direction module, usually express down for the passenger window.
Express up is kind of a bling bling thing. I like it, but it's not for every one.
Remember, my switches are in the middle of my dash, so express both ways works really well.
You can buy these modules new for about 50 bucks, used on e-bay for about 15 bucks, or nab them from pick a part for typically 1.2-1.65 each. So for an under five dollar upgrade, putting express down into a couple of windows is a bargain.
Chris
F150 Duke I don't see why you would have to get into the other doors to do the 530T install. All four power windows have wiring in the driver door. The 530T would go into the drivers door.
Be sure you run a Monster of an extra power wire into the door. Ten gauge oughta do it. I would also run a ten gauge ground wire.
The 530T would be rather easy to install. crudeau can hit the fine details for you.
I don't think the Ford Modules are what you are looking for.
You want the windows to move up and down on a single command, from your alarm, or a hidden switch.
Chris
Be sure you run a Monster of an extra power wire into the door. Ten gauge oughta do it. I would also run a ten gauge ground wire.
The 530T would be rather easy to install. crudeau can hit the fine details for you.
I don't think the Ford Modules are what you are looking for.
You want the windows to move up and down on a single command, from your alarm, or a hidden switch.
Chris
Chris,
I also want to do each window individually by the switch on the door. Like the Ford Modules do..won't the 530T do that as well. For a couple hundred bucks I could forgo having my windows connected to the alarm. I'm not made of money, as few of us are.
I'm big time afraid of running power to the door though from either the battery or the fuse. I'm thinking using the fuse and Ford module option would be easier. I mean how would I get a wire from the battery to the driver's side door without killing myself or the truck? Maybe saving and coughing up the extra money for a pro would be better. Pretty torn between the two, 530T has the nice to haves of being able to use a remote...but it takes a lot of cash to cough up that convenience. How did you combine your module wires to one big wire and connect that to the fuse box on the passenger's side.
I'd probably have to run the wires through the door, through the plastic tunnel thing, under the driver's side dash, behind the center console, behind the glove box, to the fuse box. Wow that sounds fun! lol
I also want to do each window individually by the switch on the door. Like the Ford Modules do..won't the 530T do that as well. For a couple hundred bucks I could forgo having my windows connected to the alarm. I'm not made of money, as few of us are.
I'm big time afraid of running power to the door though from either the battery or the fuse. I'm thinking using the fuse and Ford module option would be easier. I mean how would I get a wire from the battery to the driver's side door without killing myself or the truck? Maybe saving and coughing up the extra money for a pro would be better. Pretty torn between the two, 530T has the nice to haves of being able to use a remote...but it takes a lot of cash to cough up that convenience. How did you combine your module wires to one big wire and connect that to the fuse box on the passenger's side.
I'd probably have to run the wires through the door, through the plastic tunnel thing, under the driver's side dash, behind the center console, behind the glove box, to the fuse box. Wow that sounds fun! lol
Chris, I'm interesting in the way you did it. Can you email me at jwhite@ncen.com with directions? Not trying to get all up into this DT530 thingy. Thanks Man.
The 530T could be used in just the drivers door, but I don't know how to wire it that way.
The reason I install them in each door is because ALL I have to is unplug the window motor harness pop in my wires from the 530T and I am done. Easy, and perfect time to pop in some new door speakers.
Also if you do it my way and remove all four door panels, then you wouldn't put the modules in the door. Put them under the dash, both next to each other. Run one cable to power them both. I used an 8 Gauge power cable, fused at the battery, and again fused at the module.
The 530T comes with about 6 Feet on each of the wires. So you will have to extend them to reach.
What I did was used on module, installed under the steering column. This runs both drivers side windows. And then the other module is installed behind the glove box, this one runs both pass side windows. I had to add about 5 feet to the rear window wires.
http://users.nac.net/crudeau/Stereoinstall.htm
The 2nd and third picture show the window motor plug in an 03 mustang. Simillar in the F150. See how I just unpluged them and used shielded quick connects to hook to the harness. That's what you do in all four doors.
The 530T has a wire to connect to an aftermarket alarms Ground When Armed wire (this rolls the windows up), And there is another wire for window roll down, which is two part, one ground signal makes the windows crack open, a longer pulse makes them go all the way down. Wish I had the instructions for one of the modules to show you guys. I should have taken pics of the F150 install as well. It's not as scary as it sounds, I would recommend this as a do it your self mod with some advice from the boards.
The reason I use disconnects, is so I retain all factory functions, if I wanted to remove the 530T, and it makes it easily interface with every window switch in the truck. And it also retains the factory window switch lock out. So you can lock all the switches but the driver side panel.
The reason I install them in each door is because ALL I have to is unplug the window motor harness pop in my wires from the 530T and I am done. Easy, and perfect time to pop in some new door speakers.
Also if you do it my way and remove all four door panels, then you wouldn't put the modules in the door. Put them under the dash, both next to each other. Run one cable to power them both. I used an 8 Gauge power cable, fused at the battery, and again fused at the module.
The 530T comes with about 6 Feet on each of the wires. So you will have to extend them to reach.
What I did was used on module, installed under the steering column. This runs both drivers side windows. And then the other module is installed behind the glove box, this one runs both pass side windows. I had to add about 5 feet to the rear window wires.
http://users.nac.net/crudeau/Stereoinstall.htm
The 2nd and third picture show the window motor plug in an 03 mustang. Simillar in the F150. See how I just unpluged them and used shielded quick connects to hook to the harness. That's what you do in all four doors.
The 530T has a wire to connect to an aftermarket alarms Ground When Armed wire (this rolls the windows up), And there is another wire for window roll down, which is two part, one ground signal makes the windows crack open, a longer pulse makes them go all the way down. Wish I had the instructions for one of the modules to show you guys. I should have taken pics of the F150 install as well. It's not as scary as it sounds, I would recommend this as a do it your self mod with some advice from the boards.
The reason I use disconnects, is so I retain all factory functions, if I wanted to remove the 530T, and it makes it easily interface with every window switch in the truck. And it also retains the factory window switch lock out. So you can lock all the switches but the driver side panel.
For any interested or waiting to do it for a while. I will do a write up on the 530T's. Probably take me about 2 weeks to do. Since I'm going to be doing some other things in the doors, I will have them off and can get some pics.
F150 Duke, boy more apples and oranges.
to use the ford modules, pull the drivers door panel off. Great instructions in this forum.
find where you are going to mount the modules.
Your on your own, son (blazing saddles).
there is a primary power wire going to the window switch. You can use a boat load of connectors, and not cut a single wire. If you have the modules on the ground, each one has a five wire harness. All seven (still sounds ridiculous, seven)
of the hot wires go to the same hot source. You do a huge amount of wire crossing, but you do that all on the kitchen table.
Basically you build your harness on the table, and put it together in the door at one time. The wiring, except for the switch point will be done before you pull the panel.
I have a couple of the modules left over, and a 4 door window switch from an 05 Supercrew. If I can draft my camera lady for a few minutes I will post a couple of shots.
Chris
to use the ford modules, pull the drivers door panel off. Great instructions in this forum.
find where you are going to mount the modules.
Your on your own, son (blazing saddles).
there is a primary power wire going to the window switch. You can use a boat load of connectors, and not cut a single wire. If you have the modules on the ground, each one has a five wire harness. All seven (still sounds ridiculous, seven)
of the hot wires go to the same hot source. You do a huge amount of wire crossing, but you do that all on the kitchen table.
Basically you build your harness on the table, and put it together in the door at one time. The wiring, except for the switch point will be done before you pull the panel.
I have a couple of the modules left over, and a 4 door window switch from an 05 Supercrew. If I can draft my camera lady for a few minutes I will post a couple of shots.
Chris


