i put in the Amsoil Series 2000 0w30 at 5000 miles, now im at 8500, oil is still clean, not a drop low. i dont see why people will spend a ton of money on their trucks and NOT buy the best oil they can afford. doesnt make sense..

 

""i dont see why people will spend a ton of money on their trucks and NOT buy the best oil they can afford. doesnt make sense..""

zactly......

get the mobil 1

 

Mobil-1 user here... don't burn oil, never burned oil, and engine purrrrrrrs like nothing else... Rocky, your on crack dude...

 

Over the last 42 years, I have tried every type of oil in everything. Mobil 1 came out and was promoted as lasting forever and dramatically increasing fuel mileage (just as radial tires were). I used it and couldn't tell any difference in fuel mileage at all. I have used synthetics in cars, trucks, lawn mowers and motorcycles and the only thing I have noticed is that it is more prone to leak than conventional oil. I used it in 2 of my BMW motorcycles (one air cooled and the other water cooled) and they seeped oil around the seals with synthetic and do not with either conventional oil or a synthetic blend.

I use a conventional oil and change it at 5,000 miles and have never had an engine problem or an oil consumption problem(180,000 miles is about as far as I ever drive one). I don't even stay with a particular brand as long as it meets my engine's specifications.

Buying the most expensive because it's "the best" is for suckers. People who buy bottled water to drink amaze me. They're usually buying tap water that has been filtered and paying $8-$10 per gallon because it's the "best". Great marketing by the bottlers.

 

As long as it's got the latest API rating on it, it doesn't really matter whether it's Amsoil, Mobil 1, Valvoline, Crisco, lard, bacon drippings, whatever. Just change it regularly and stop thinking so hard about oil.

 

Lets not turn this into a huge oil debate like always.

I run Mobil-1 synthetic and I have never burned a drop. After switching my engine runs better and I get better gas mileage. Now its not a huge difference but I can tell its there. The only thing with synthetic if your going to step-up theres no turning back. Synthetic usually costs about double for a oil change, someone correct me if Im wrong.

 

Mobil 1 user here also. Been using it in everything I own for 20 yrs now, never had a consumption or leak problem. What really sold me after all these years was a lil ole Camry of all things. Two yrs ago I bought a 96 Camry we traded for at work, it had 100,800 miles on it and looked new. Turned out i knew the original owner and he told me he used Mobil 1 and changed it at 3-4k intervals. Six mos ago I had it at the local Toyo dealer getting the cam belt replaced at the scheduled 120k service. I went back and looked at it with the valve cover off and went . This engine literally looked like it had never been run...I mean brand new under valve cover. Mobil 1 flat works period! Sorry for long post. :o

 

Now I'm lost again. It takes 100 horsepower per 61 cubic inches before you call it high performance?

So a 32 valve Northstar is a low performance motor?
4.6 liters, 305 horse.
Even that awesome Ausi motor posted lately was less than 460 horse for 4.6

Sorry, that definition of High Performance blows me away.

I have owned Rat's that would pull the wheels, and slam your head back at 120, but I never attained 1.63 horses per cube.
And I thought Vettes Porches, etc. were high performance?
Can't think of any street legal, full production machine that approaches that many ponies per cube.

Besides, these trucks have the exact same problem that any high performance engine experiences. Getting oil on startup to the top of the engine, where the cam needs it, is the biggest challenge.
Bearings are very seldom a problem in a V8 with clean plentiful oil.
Chris

 

Mobil has never caused me a leak, but if you HAVE a leak, Mobil 1 goes through it like the synthetic it is.
It's designed to get in to small places easily. Or through small holes...
It does have drain back problem, like all full synthetics, but that’s addressed on most modern engines.
Chris

 

I can only think of one engine right away that meets the 'hi-perf' criteria... the inline-6 in the BMW M3. A tad over 3 litres and 333 poinies.. roughly 100hp/litre.

Every other engine sucks!

 

Good ole crusty Bs.

I miss racing the BMW. One thing about BMWs is, I spent more time wrenching on it than I did racing it.

 

Well, that would be the conclusion....

Chris

 

Lol, I was saying that any engine that meets 100 hp/litre is perfection in design. Anything within a 75 hp total of that standard (ie. 3.5 w/ 280 HP) is awesome too. The closer you get to that ratio the better. I'm not saying that everything 76 hp and higher isn't high performance or sucks. But when 240 hp off, you're not near the top. A 5.4 would need a lot more to come close to that unless it was blowing ears off with torque and we're not doing that either. I mean this goes to the debate of jamming truck motors in old cars when your rebuilding them. Sure you can do it and it sounds deep and tough, but it'll get killed everytime by a well built car engine. They're just not built for high performance in terms of speed and power.

 

Oil clean, not a drop low... I can say the same about my truck at 4100 miles with whatever oil it had in it when I drove it off the dealer lot. Ford trucks!

This afternoons addition - Luverne stainless steel running boards.

 

osbornk.......

Quintin........