15 Mpg!!!
15 Mpg!!!
Yeehaw. I finally got into the 15mpg range. I added Mobil 7500 synthetic blend 5w30 with the last oil change and removed the band clamp after the Y-pipe and before the muffler to open up the exhaust. I'm sure the ECU has some more adjusting to do, but it was a solid 1.5mpg increase over the previous trips to the pump.
It's effectively an open exhaust after the y-pipe, so if you think that had nothing to do with it, then......
Don't be afraid to get dirty and crawl around under your truck once and awhile and see what I was talking about.
Don't be afraid to get dirty and crawl around under your truck once and awhile and see what I was talking about.
How does it sound with the open exhaust like you've got it? I'd love to get something more than the muffled sewing-machine sound I've got coming out of the 5.4 now, but the wife would kill me if I spent money to replace a perfectly good muffler. I just cut the baffles out on my bike, but the truck is a bit more tricky...
-Jim
-Jim
It's not that loud at all in my opinion. You can tell it's unmuffled, and more abrasive than a catback. The benefits are that it's only loud when you really get on the throttle, it's quite as stock when idling and cruising, and you don't get the drone you would with an aftermarket muffler.
Undoing the clamp for extra noise and that wonderfully intoxicating C02 smells in the cabin is way cool, no doubt! But to get more power, the following is a secret trick only a few F150 members know:
Drill a 48/64" hole in the bottom of the exhaust (use a circular blade with center drill) right before that same clamp you undid. Then attach a 24/32" braided stainless steel hose to that hole, and run it up to the throttle body cover. Then, drill two 12/16" holes, opposite from another into the bottom of the throttle body cover. Attach the 24/32" stainless steel braided hose to one of the 12/16" holes, and on the other, run a stainless steel braided hose in 6/8" size to a hole (3/4" big) which you must drill in the rear valve cover (not the side valve covers, only the rear one!..This is critical!).
And one last thing, have your friend (or someone you know) work the gas pedal from off to full on wit eth key in the run position, BUT the engine NOT running. Observe where the throttle position sensor is. Note when your friend holds the throttle half way down, mark eth position. Turn off ignition, undo battery, and loosen the two screws for the throttle position sensor, and turn it to the position where it was when your friend had the throttle pressed half way down.
Finished!
The positive boost from the exhaust will act as a compressor super-charger, forcing air into the throttle body. More air needs more gas, and that’s where the adjusted Throttle Position Sensor comes into play. The changed position fools the CPU into thinking that the gas pedal is pressed more than it actually is and so you get more fuel to go with that extra air boost. The air bypass, PCV blue hose setup is an equalizer to ensure boost is not too high. BTW, the drill sizes are critical to ensure max performance and acute comprehension of the above article's message.
Tools:
Drill sizes: 48/64, 24/32, 12/16, 6/8, and 3/4"
Size 32 Torx bit for the Throttle Position Sensor mod.
Hoses: Must be braided stainless steel for minimum expansion under extreem boost conditions.
I highly recomend getting the drills and hoses from:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/
These guys know what's what!
MarkCh
Drill a 48/64" hole in the bottom of the exhaust (use a circular blade with center drill) right before that same clamp you undid. Then attach a 24/32" braided stainless steel hose to that hole, and run it up to the throttle body cover. Then, drill two 12/16" holes, opposite from another into the bottom of the throttle body cover. Attach the 24/32" stainless steel braided hose to one of the 12/16" holes, and on the other, run a stainless steel braided hose in 6/8" size to a hole (3/4" big) which you must drill in the rear valve cover (not the side valve covers, only the rear one!..This is critical!).
And one last thing, have your friend (or someone you know) work the gas pedal from off to full on wit eth key in the run position, BUT the engine NOT running. Observe where the throttle position sensor is. Note when your friend holds the throttle half way down, mark eth position. Turn off ignition, undo battery, and loosen the two screws for the throttle position sensor, and turn it to the position where it was when your friend had the throttle pressed half way down.
Finished!
The positive boost from the exhaust will act as a compressor super-charger, forcing air into the throttle body. More air needs more gas, and that’s where the adjusted Throttle Position Sensor comes into play. The changed position fools the CPU into thinking that the gas pedal is pressed more than it actually is and so you get more fuel to go with that extra air boost. The air bypass, PCV blue hose setup is an equalizer to ensure boost is not too high. BTW, the drill sizes are critical to ensure max performance and acute comprehension of the above article's message.
Tools:
Drill sizes: 48/64, 24/32, 12/16, 6/8, and 3/4"
Size 32 Torx bit for the Throttle Position Sensor mod.
Hoses: Must be braided stainless steel for minimum expansion under extreem boost conditions.
I highly recomend getting the drills and hoses from:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/
These guys know what's what!
MarkCh
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Originally posted by MarkCh
I highly recomend getting the drills and hoses from:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/
These guys know what's what!
I highly recomend getting the drills and hoses from:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/
These guys know what's what!
I've been a customer of Kaleco for years...I bought a replacement muffler bearing from them and it worked like a charm...cheap too!
Originally posted by NukePooch
I've been a customer of Kaleco for years...I bought a replacement muffler bearing from them and it worked like a charm...cheap too!
I've been a customer of Kaleco for years...I bought a replacement muffler bearing from them and it worked like a charm...cheap too!
Originally posted by MarkCh
Undoing the clamp for extra noise and that wonderfully intoxicating C02 smells in the cabin is way cool, no doubt! But to get more power, the following is a secret trick only a few F150 members know:
Drill a 48/64" hole in the bottom of the exhaust (use a circular blade with center drill) right before that same clamp you undid. Then attach a 24/32" braided stainless steel hose to that hole, and run it up to the throttle body cover. Then, drill two 12/16" holes, opposite from another into the bottom of the throttle body cover. Attach the 24/32" stainless steel braided hose to one of the 12/16" holes, and on the other, run a stainless steel braided hose in 6/8" size to a hole (3/4" big) which you must drill in the rear valve cover (not the side valve covers, only the rear one!..This is critical!).
And one last thing, have your friend (or someone you know) work the gas pedal from off to full on wit eth key in the run position, BUT the engine NOT running. Observe where the throttle position sensor is. Note when your friend holds the throttle half way down, mark eth position. Turn off ignition, undo battery, and loosen the two screws for the throttle position sensor, and turn it to the position where it was when your friend had the throttle pressed half way down.
Finished!
The positive boost from the exhaust will act as a compressor super-charger, forcing air into the throttle body. More air needs more gas, and that’s where the adjusted Throttle Position Sensor comes into play. The changed position fools the CPU into thinking that the gas pedal is pressed more than it actually is and so you get more fuel to go with that extra air boost. The air bypass, PCV blue hose setup is an equalizer to ensure boost is not too high. BTW, the drill sizes are critical to ensure max performance and acute comprehension of the above article's message.
Tools:
Drill sizes: 48/64, 24/32, 12/16, 6/8, and 3/4"
Size 32 Torx bit for the Throttle Position Sensor mod.
Hoses: Must be braided stainless steel for minimum expansion under extreem boost conditions.
I highly recomend getting the drills and hoses from:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/
These guys know what's what!
MarkCh
Undoing the clamp for extra noise and that wonderfully intoxicating C02 smells in the cabin is way cool, no doubt! But to get more power, the following is a secret trick only a few F150 members know:
Drill a 48/64" hole in the bottom of the exhaust (use a circular blade with center drill) right before that same clamp you undid. Then attach a 24/32" braided stainless steel hose to that hole, and run it up to the throttle body cover. Then, drill two 12/16" holes, opposite from another into the bottom of the throttle body cover. Attach the 24/32" stainless steel braided hose to one of the 12/16" holes, and on the other, run a stainless steel braided hose in 6/8" size to a hole (3/4" big) which you must drill in the rear valve cover (not the side valve covers, only the rear one!..This is critical!).
And one last thing, have your friend (or someone you know) work the gas pedal from off to full on wit eth key in the run position, BUT the engine NOT running. Observe where the throttle position sensor is. Note when your friend holds the throttle half way down, mark eth position. Turn off ignition, undo battery, and loosen the two screws for the throttle position sensor, and turn it to the position where it was when your friend had the throttle pressed half way down.
Finished!
The positive boost from the exhaust will act as a compressor super-charger, forcing air into the throttle body. More air needs more gas, and that’s where the adjusted Throttle Position Sensor comes into play. The changed position fools the CPU into thinking that the gas pedal is pressed more than it actually is and so you get more fuel to go with that extra air boost. The air bypass, PCV blue hose setup is an equalizer to ensure boost is not too high. BTW, the drill sizes are critical to ensure max performance and acute comprehension of the above article's message.
Tools:
Drill sizes: 48/64, 24/32, 12/16, 6/8, and 3/4"
Size 32 Torx bit for the Throttle Position Sensor mod.
Hoses: Must be braided stainless steel for minimum expansion under extreem boost conditions.
I highly recomend getting the drills and hoses from:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/
These guys know what's what!
MarkCh
Originally posted by MarkCh
Undoing the clamp for extra noise and that wonderfully intoxicating C02 smells in the cabin is way cool, no doubt! But to get more power, the following is a secret trick only a few F150 members know:
Drill a 48/64" hole in the bottom of the exhaust (use a circular blade with center drill) right before that same clamp you undid. Then attach a 24/32" braided stainless steel hose to that hole, and run it up to the throttle body cover. Then, drill two 12/16" holes, opposite from another into the bottom of the throttle body cover. Attach the 24/32" stainless steel braided hose to one of the 12/16" holes, and on the other, run a stainless steel braided hose in 6/8" size to a hole (3/4" big) which you must drill in the rear valve cover (not the side valve covers, only the rear one!..This is critical!).
And one last thing, have your friend (or someone you know) work the gas pedal from off to full on wit eth key in the run position, BUT the engine NOT running. Observe where the throttle position sensor is. Note when your friend holds the throttle half way down, mark eth position. Turn off ignition, undo battery, and loosen the two screws for the throttle position sensor, and turn it to the position where it was when your friend had the throttle pressed half way down.
Finished!
The positive boost from the exhaust will act as a compressor super-charger, forcing air into the throttle body. More air needs more gas, and that’s where the adjusted Throttle Position Sensor comes into play. The changed position fools the CPU into thinking that the gas pedal is pressed more than it actually is and so you get more fuel to go with that extra air boost. The air bypass, PCV blue hose setup is an equalizer to ensure boost is not too high. BTW, the drill sizes are critical to ensure max performance and acute comprehension of the above article's message.
Tools:
Drill sizes: 48/64, 24/32, 12/16, 6/8, and 3/4"
Size 32 Torx bit for the Throttle Position Sensor mod.
Hoses: Must be braided stainless steel for minimum expansion under extreem boost conditions.
I highly recomend getting the drills and hoses from:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/
These guys know what's what!
MarkCh
Undoing the clamp for extra noise and that wonderfully intoxicating C02 smells in the cabin is way cool, no doubt! But to get more power, the following is a secret trick only a few F150 members know:
Drill a 48/64" hole in the bottom of the exhaust (use a circular blade with center drill) right before that same clamp you undid. Then attach a 24/32" braided stainless steel hose to that hole, and run it up to the throttle body cover. Then, drill two 12/16" holes, opposite from another into the bottom of the throttle body cover. Attach the 24/32" stainless steel braided hose to one of the 12/16" holes, and on the other, run a stainless steel braided hose in 6/8" size to a hole (3/4" big) which you must drill in the rear valve cover (not the side valve covers, only the rear one!..This is critical!).
And one last thing, have your friend (or someone you know) work the gas pedal from off to full on wit eth key in the run position, BUT the engine NOT running. Observe where the throttle position sensor is. Note when your friend holds the throttle half way down, mark eth position. Turn off ignition, undo battery, and loosen the two screws for the throttle position sensor, and turn it to the position where it was when your friend had the throttle pressed half way down.
Finished!
The positive boost from the exhaust will act as a compressor super-charger, forcing air into the throttle body. More air needs more gas, and that’s where the adjusted Throttle Position Sensor comes into play. The changed position fools the CPU into thinking that the gas pedal is pressed more than it actually is and so you get more fuel to go with that extra air boost. The air bypass, PCV blue hose setup is an equalizer to ensure boost is not too high. BTW, the drill sizes are critical to ensure max performance and acute comprehension of the above article's message.
Tools:
Drill sizes: 48/64, 24/32, 12/16, 6/8, and 3/4"
Size 32 Torx bit for the Throttle Position Sensor mod.
Hoses: Must be braided stainless steel for minimum expansion under extreem boost conditions.
I highly recomend getting the drills and hoses from:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/
These guys know what's what!
MarkCh
If you want to waste you money on a poor performing, and overpriced catback, then by all means go ahead. If you've bought a POS redneck dual rear exit exhaust then please cut your mullet. If you've disconnected your catback for two weeks while waiting for your Corsa muffler and tip to arrive and saw some gains and wanted to let your fellow owners know then, you'd be me. If you think an open exhaust is too loud then you're either too dang old, or you're a wuss.
Not too old.
Just 20 years past stupid.
But you go young stud! You and thumper could teach Ford a few things, thats for sure.
Did Mommy buy your truck like Thumper, or are you a working man?
Just 20 years past stupid.
But you go young stud! You and thumper could teach Ford a few things, thats for sure.
Did Mommy buy your truck like Thumper, or are you a working man?


