15 Mpg!!!
Originally posted by MarkCh
Tools:
Drill sizes: 48/64, 24/32, 12/16, 6/8, and 3/4"
Size 32 Torx bit for the Throttle Position Sensor mod.
Hoses: Must be braided stainless steel for minimum expansion under extreem boost conditions.
Tools:
Drill sizes: 48/64, 24/32, 12/16, 6/8, and 3/4"
Size 32 Torx bit for the Throttle Position Sensor mod.
Hoses: Must be braided stainless steel for minimum expansion under extreem boost conditions.
smarta$$
Originally posted by MarkCh
Undoing the clamp for extra noise and that wonderfully intoxicating C02 smells in the cabin is way cool, no doubt! But to get more power, the following is a secret trick only a few F150 members know:
Drill a 48/64" hole in the bottom of the exhaust...
...Finished!
The positive boost from the exhaust will act as a compressor super-charger, forcing air into the throttle body. More air needs more gas, and that’s where the adjusted Throttle Position Sensor comes into play. The changed position fools the CPU into thinking that the gas pedal is pressed more than it actually is and so you get more fuel to go with that extra air boost. The air bypass, PCV blue hose setup is an equalizer to ensure boost is not too high. BTW, the drill sizes are critical to ensure max performance and acute comprehension of the above article's message...
MarkCh
Undoing the clamp for extra noise and that wonderfully intoxicating C02 smells in the cabin is way cool, no doubt! But to get more power, the following is a secret trick only a few F150 members know:
Drill a 48/64" hole in the bottom of the exhaust...
...Finished!
The positive boost from the exhaust will act as a compressor super-charger, forcing air into the throttle body. More air needs more gas, and that’s where the adjusted Throttle Position Sensor comes into play. The changed position fools the CPU into thinking that the gas pedal is pressed more than it actually is and so you get more fuel to go with that extra air boost. The air bypass, PCV blue hose setup is an equalizer to ensure boost is not too high. BTW, the drill sizes are critical to ensure max performance and acute comprehension of the above article's message...
MarkCh
Originally posted by GunR
If you think an open exhaust is too loud then you're either too dang old, or you're a wuss.
If you think an open exhaust is too loud then you're either too dang old, or you're a wuss.
Originally posted by RamSS/T
Yeah, I can remember at time when I said AC was for old men and women. Well I guess I got old!!!
Yeah, I can remember at time when I said AC was for old men and women. Well I guess I got old!!!
any more info on this mod? i hope i dont come across, as a gullible tard, but that sounds like a really good mod. any picutres? or more info here? my warranty is out, and im ready to mod my brains out.
Originally posted by powerdome
any more info on this mod? i hope i dont come across, as a gullible tard, but that sounds like a really good mod. any picutres? or more info here? my warranty is out, and im ready to mod my brains out.
__________________
2004
F150
Red 4x4 STX
Regular Cab Flareside
3.55 gears
Daystar Spring Spacer
4.6 4-speed auto
20% mettalized tint
True Dual exhaust
Muff Delete
Chrome Rollbar
4KC Daylighters
Full Synthetics
Sirius Satellite Radio
Pioneer HeadUnit
2-10" JLW1 subs
Rockford Fosgate 1200 Amp
No Pix of the 2004 yet, my gallery has my 2001 4x4 sport "Bigfoot"
Gallery Link https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2285
any more info on this mod? i hope i dont come across, as a gullible tard, but that sounds like a really good mod. any picutres? or more info here? my warranty is out, and im ready to mod my brains out.
__________________
2004
F150
Red 4x4 STX
Regular Cab Flareside
3.55 gears
Daystar Spring Spacer
4.6 4-speed auto
20% mettalized tint
True Dual exhaust
Muff Delete
Chrome Rollbar
4KC Daylighters
Full Synthetics
Sirius Satellite Radio
Pioneer HeadUnit
2-10" JLW1 subs
Rockford Fosgate 1200 Amp
No Pix of the 2004 yet, my gallery has my 2001 4x4 sport "Bigfoot"
Gallery Link https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2285
Where you removed your mufflers and now have a full twin open exhaust, you need to create a three hose system, instead of two. That means two hoses, one from each exhaust pipe, near the exhaust manifold, to the bottom of the plastic throttle body housing plate, and as in the prior instructions, the PVC pressure bypass hose to the rear valve cover.
Since you have the 4.6 and 4x4, you may want to install the ultimate setup, pushing it onto the next level.
Nitros Baby!
A few inches ahead of each of the two drilled exhaust spots for the stainless steel hose-to-throttle body housing mod, you need to add a Nitros 'Mega-Blast Rod-Thrower' kit (kit # 3ng1n3-k1773r by Rod Naw-ka Kompetition). It's a German company, and the power is rated in PS (instead of HP), get the twin 245ps shot and make sure it's TuV approved.
The reason here, is to get that high exhaust pressure mixed with Nitro for a hi-pressure explosive charge. This does not work with two wheel drive, as the tires just spin. You need 4x4 with all four tires hooking up in a cloud of smoke when the system is activated.
Tested on the Nurburgring Nordschliefe world renown GP track, an F150 short bed 4x4 4.6l, lowered 4" front, 6" rear, lapped a 7minute 13second lap that's '713'!!!
Happy Dodge SRT10 hunting!
MarkLC
Last edited by MarkCh; Apr 24, 2005 at 11:17 AM.
Thanks alot for that there, i dunno what exactly to call it but F*^#ing Sweet! But a step at a time, because i do use this truck, for a truck. work truck dog hauler, cattle feeder, its a multi purpose, so i still need the driveability, or would i not lose it with that? this is the best info ive gotten on my truck. or the most up lifting news ive heard in a long time.
Originally posted by powerdome
Thanks alot for that there, i dunno what exactly to call it but F*^#ing Sweet! But a step at a time, because i do use this truck, for a truck. work truck dog hauler, cattle feeder, its a multi purpose, so i still need the driveability, or would i not lose it with that? this is the best info ive gotten on my truck. or the most up lifting news ive heard in a long time.
Thanks alot for that there, i dunno what exactly to call it but F*^#ing Sweet! But a step at a time, because i do use this truck, for a truck. work truck dog hauler, cattle feeder, its a multi purpose, so i still need the driveability, or would i not lose it with that? this is the best info ive gotten on my truck. or the most up lifting news ive heard in a long time.
with putting nitrous on it would i have to strengthen the engine? will it take that kinda pressure? or will me doing just the supercharger/turbo need me to strengthen it? and i need a lil more in depth for the turbo install? is it possible to cool that air down? and where is the rear valve cover? no idea what to look for there. thnx in advance
As stated before...
So you see, the exhaust mixes with the nitrous charge...They cancel each other out, causing little to no extreme pressure. You won't need any engine strengthening/rebuilding with this method, that's the beauty of it, it's all pure power!
Originally posted by MarkCh
The reason here, is to get that high exhaust pressure mixed with Nitro for a hi-pressure explosive charge. This does not work with two wheel drive, as the tires just spin. You need 4x4 with all four tires hooking up in a cloud of smoke when the system is activated.
MarkLC
The reason here, is to get that high exhaust pressure mixed with Nitro for a hi-pressure explosive charge. This does not work with two wheel drive, as the tires just spin. You need 4x4 with all four tires hooking up in a cloud of smoke when the system is activated.
MarkLC


