2004 - 2008 F-150
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 10:50 AM
  #16  
J-150's Avatar
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Originally posted by MarkCh
Tools:
Drill sizes: 48/64, 24/32, 12/16, 6/8, and 3/4"
Size 32 Torx bit for the Throttle Position Sensor mod.
Hoses: Must be braided stainless steel for minimum expansion under extreem boost conditions.


smarta$$
 
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 11:03 AM
  #17  
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From: Arkansas
Originally posted by MarkCh
Undoing the clamp for extra noise and that wonderfully intoxicating C02 smells in the cabin is way cool, no doubt! But to get more power, the following is a secret trick only a few F150 members know:

Drill a 48/64" hole in the bottom of the exhaust...

...Finished!

The positive boost from the exhaust will act as a compressor super-charger, forcing air into the throttle body. More air needs more gas, and that’s where the adjusted Throttle Position Sensor comes into play. The changed position fools the CPU into thinking that the gas pedal is pressed more than it actually is and so you get more fuel to go with that extra air boost. The air bypass, PCV blue hose setup is an equalizer to ensure boost is not too high. BTW, the drill sizes are critical to ensure max performance and acute comprehension of the above article's message...

MarkCh

Sounds like a great mod! Some pics would be great. Anyone have pics?

 
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 01:54 PM
  #18  
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From: Albany, GA
Originally posted by GunR
If you think an open exhaust is too loud then you're either too dang old, or you're a wuss.
Yeah, I can remember at time when I said AC was for old men and women. Well I guess I got old!!!
 
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 02:40 PM
  #19  
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maybe so, but u dont see many old guys with 24" wheels
 
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 02:45 PM
  #20  
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From: Marion VA
Originally posted by RamSS/T
Yeah, I can remember at time when I said AC was for old men and women. Well I guess I got old!!!
Yeah, and power steering, power brakes and automatic transmissions were for sissies. Who would possibly ever pay money for power windows and power door locks? Now, I missed it when my XLT wasn't available with automatic temperature control. For somebody that didn't get indoor plumbing until the 3rd. grade, I sure have become spoiled.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 03:56 PM
  #21  
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any more info on this mod? i hope i dont come across, as a gullible tard, but that sounds like a really good mod. any picutres? or more info here? my warranty is out, and im ready to mod my brains out.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2005 | 11:14 AM
  #22  
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Originally posted by powerdome
any more info on this mod? i hope i dont come across, as a gullible tard, but that sounds like a really good mod. any picutres? or more info here? my warranty is out, and im ready to mod my brains out.

__________________
2004
F150
Red 4x4 STX
Regular Cab Flareside
3.55 gears
Daystar Spring Spacer
4.6 4-speed auto
20% mettalized tint
True Dual exhaust
Muff Delete
Chrome Rollbar
4KC Daylighters
Full Synthetics
Sirius Satellite Radio
Pioneer HeadUnit
2-10" JLW1 subs
Rockford Fosgate 1200 Amp

No Pix of the 2004 yet, my gallery has my 2001 4x4 sport "Bigfoot"
Gallery Link https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2285
The mod is not for everyone, actually only a few F150 owners who know how to really mod their truck and go full force should attempt the procedure. However, after reviewing the impressive list of mods your truck already has, you may be the right candidate AFTER you add this mod first.

Where you removed your mufflers and now have a full twin open exhaust, you need to create a three hose system, instead of two. That means two hoses, one from each exhaust pipe, near the exhaust manifold, to the bottom of the plastic throttle body housing plate, and as in the prior instructions, the PVC pressure bypass hose to the rear valve cover.

Since you have the 4.6 and 4x4, you may want to install the ultimate setup, pushing it onto the next level.

Nitros Baby!

A few inches ahead of each of the two drilled exhaust spots for the stainless steel hose-to-throttle body housing mod, you need to add a Nitros 'Mega-Blast Rod-Thrower' kit (kit # 3ng1n3-k1773r by Rod Naw-ka Kompetition). It's a German company, and the power is rated in PS (instead of HP), get the twin 245ps shot and make sure it's TuV approved.

The reason here, is to get that high exhaust pressure mixed with Nitro for a hi-pressure explosive charge. This does not work with two wheel drive, as the tires just spin. You need 4x4 with all four tires hooking up in a cloud of smoke when the system is activated.

Tested on the Nurburgring Nordschliefe world renown GP track, an F150 short bed 4x4 4.6l, lowered 4" front, 6" rear, lapped a 7minute 13second lap that's '713'!!!


Happy Dodge SRT10 hunting!


MarkLC
 

Last edited by MarkCh; Apr 24, 2005 at 11:17 AM.
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Old Apr 25, 2005 | 01:50 PM
  #23  
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From: Wauneta, Ne
Thanks alot for that there, i dunno what exactly to call it but F*^#ing Sweet! But a step at a time, because i do use this truck, for a truck. work truck dog hauler, cattle feeder, its a multi purpose, so i still need the driveability, or would i not lose it with that? this is the best info ive gotten on my truck. or the most up lifting news ive heard in a long time.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2005 | 05:33 PM
  #24  
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Damn
 
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Old Apr 25, 2005 | 06:12 PM
  #25  
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Originally posted by powerdome
Thanks alot for that there, i dunno what exactly to call it but F*^#ing Sweet! But a step at a time, because i do use this truck, for a truck. work truck dog hauler, cattle feeder, its a multi purpose, so i still need the driveability, or would i not lose it with that? this is the best info ive gotten on my truck. or the most up lifting news ive heard in a long time.
No sweat to keep the drivability...all you do is put a copper plumbing valve from Home Depot in the middle of the hose from the exhaust to the throttle body housing. When you're done having fun for the day and need to haul something, you simply close the valve and it's right back to stock. In addition, if you run the stainless hose into the cab, you can access the valve from the driver's seat. I've got mine plumbed into the glove box for the stealth look.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2005 | 09:18 PM
  #26  
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From: Wauneta, Ne
with putting nitrous on it would i have to strengthen the engine? will it take that kinda pressure? or will me doing just the supercharger/turbo need me to strengthen it? and i need a lil more in depth for the turbo install? is it possible to cool that air down? and where is the rear valve cover? no idea what to look for there. thnx in advance
 
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Old Apr 25, 2005 | 09:20 PM
  #27  
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From: Wauneta, Ne
i also forgot to ask what kinda boost will this produce? and is there a way i can gauge it?
 
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Old Apr 25, 2005 | 09:22 PM
  #28  
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This is all too much for me to comprehend.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2005 | 09:29 PM
  #29  
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As stated before...

Originally posted by MarkCh

The reason here, is to get that high exhaust pressure mixed with Nitro for a hi-pressure explosive charge. This does not work with two wheel drive, as the tires just spin. You need 4x4 with all four tires hooking up in a cloud of smoke when the system is activated.

MarkLC
So you see, the exhaust mixes with the nitrous charge...They cancel each other out, causing little to no extreme pressure. You won't need any engine strengthening/rebuilding with this method, that's the beauty of it, it's all pure power!
 
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Old Apr 25, 2005 | 09:42 PM
  #30  
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From: Wauneta, Ne
is there a way to gauge this? at least monitor it?
 
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