The answer on connecting aftermarket HU to audiophile sub harness
#1
The answer on connecting aftermarket HU to audiophile sub harness
I have searched the forums trying to find the information on a harness to connect the wiring for the audiophile sub to an aftermarket radio. I eventually came across a new part in a site that works. The part is Metra 70-5521. It contains the main radio harness as well as the 8 pin connector used to tap into the audiophile sub wiring. Cost is between $17 - $20 depending on where you buy it. look for it on www.installer.com by part number. I have connected my Kenwood DDX-7015 with this kit and everything works perfectly. I hope others will find this information useful.
#2
Originally Posted by bh10673
I have searched the forums trying to find the information on a harness to connect the wiring for the audiophile sub to an aftermarket radio. I eventually came across a new part in a site that works. The part is Metra 70-5521. It contains the main radio harness as well as the 8 pin connector used to tap into the audiophile sub wiring. Cost is between $17 - $20 depending on where you buy it. look for it on www.installer.com by part number. I have connected my Kenwood DDX-7015 with this kit and everything works perfectly. I hope others will find this information useful.
#3
bh10673 - Yes, that harness will work perfectly to connect to the existing sub harness, but there's one other thing people will need to know. Unless your aftermarket HU has sub out RCAs, the sub is going to see full range. Not the best situation for sub performance and sound.
Aftermarket HUs that only have full range out RCAs will need to run through some type of crossover to get the best sound, as the factory Audiophile HU has a built in crossover that sends sub only signals to the amp.
medik - Unless the aftermarket HU accepts the same voltage for the various functions (vol +/-, tune +/-), I doubt the steering controls would still work. Ford uses a single 12v lead, with a multiple series of resistors to achieve the steering wheel controls. Seems to me that the setup would only work with stock head units.
E...
Aftermarket HUs that only have full range out RCAs will need to run through some type of crossover to get the best sound, as the factory Audiophile HU has a built in crossover that sends sub only signals to the amp.
medik - Unless the aftermarket HU accepts the same voltage for the various functions (vol +/-, tune +/-), I doubt the steering controls would still work. Ford uses a single 12v lead, with a multiple series of resistors to achieve the steering wheel controls. Seems to me that the setup would only work with stock head units.
E...
#5
#7
OK, I got the Metra 70-5521 Kit today. I tried installing it and the Sub never fired up. Turned the Sub output to "On" in the Pioneer Head Unit, still no luck.
Questions:
1) The Kit has 2 RCA jacks and 2 power lead wires on the harness for a Sub, do I need the 2 power leads? Is the stock Sub already powered?
2) The 4 pins (to RCA's) in the connector for the Metra 70-5521 Sub harness do not line up pin-for-pin with the stock connector for the audiophile sub....???
Can someone verify any of this....???
Thanks!
Questions:
1) The Kit has 2 RCA jacks and 2 power lead wires on the harness for a Sub, do I need the 2 power leads? Is the stock Sub already powered?
2) The 4 pins (to RCA's) in the connector for the Metra 70-5521 Sub harness do not line up pin-for-pin with the stock connector for the audiophile sub....???
Can someone verify any of this....???
Thanks!
Last edited by fatboy0103@cox.; 06-09-2005 at 12:24 PM.
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#8
Originally Posted by fatboy0103@***.
OK, I got the Metra 70-5521 Kit today. I tried installing it and the Sub never fired up. Turned the Sub output to "On" in the Pioneer Head Unit, still no luck.
Questions:
1) The Kit has 2 RCA jacks and 2 power lead wires on the harness for a Sub, do I need the 2 power leads? Is the stock Sub already powered?
2) The 4 pins (to RCA's) in the connector for the Metra 70-5521 Sub harness do not line up pin-for-pin with the stock connector for the audiophile sub....???
Can someone verify any of this....???
Thanks!
Questions:
1) The Kit has 2 RCA jacks and 2 power lead wires on the harness for a Sub, do I need the 2 power leads? Is the stock Sub already powered?
2) The 4 pins (to RCA's) in the connector for the Metra 70-5521 Sub harness do not line up pin-for-pin with the stock connector for the audiophile sub....???
Can someone verify any of this....???
Thanks!
Yes, You need only one of the power leads to turn on the factory amp. Make sure the blue lead (amp turn on) from your head unit is hooked up to the metra (blue) turn on lead. If you hook up both of the metra blue leads to your head unit it wont hurt anything or you can just cut it off. Good luck!
#10
#12
Originally Posted by Sal FX4
The stock connector only uses one rca. It also only uses one of the power (blue) leads but the metra supplys two power leads just in case. Look at the stock connector closely and you will see what I am talking about.
Yes, You need only one of the power leads to turn on the factory amp. Make sure the blue lead (amp turn on) from your head unit is hooked up to the metra (blue) turn on lead. If you hook up both of the metra blue leads to your head unit it wont hurt anything or you can just cut it off. Good luck!
Yes, You need only one of the power leads to turn on the factory amp. Make sure the blue lead (amp turn on) from your head unit is hooked up to the metra (blue) turn on lead. If you hook up both of the metra blue leads to your head unit it wont hurt anything or you can just cut it off. Good luck!
#13
Removing the popping sound from factory sub
To remove the "pop" or "thump" that you hear from the sub when you turn on your aftermarket HU, add a resistor between the blue amp turn on lead from your HU and the blue amp turn on wire on the Metra harness for the factory sub.
ex: blue amp turn on from HU ---(resistor)--- blue wire on metra sub harness
Radio Shack part number: 271-1120 (1.5k 1/2 watt resistor)
http://www.radioshack.com/searchsku.asp?find=271-1120
This concept delays the turn on current coming from the HU just enough to make sure the audio signal reaches the sub first. This is a common problem with intergrating aftermarket head units with factory subs. I've used this solution with my Sport Track and my new 05 F-150.
ex: blue amp turn on from HU ---(resistor)--- blue wire on metra sub harness
Radio Shack part number: 271-1120 (1.5k 1/2 watt resistor)
http://www.radioshack.com/searchsku.asp?find=271-1120
This concept delays the turn on current coming from the HU just enough to make sure the audio signal reaches the sub first. This is a common problem with intergrating aftermarket head units with factory subs. I've used this solution with my Sport Track and my new 05 F-150.
#14
Originally Posted by bh10673
To remove the "pop" or "thump" that you hear from the sub when you turn on your aftermarket HU, add a resistor between the blue amp turn on lead from your HU and the blue amp turn on wire on the Metra harness for the factory sub.
ex: blue amp turn on from HU ---(resistor)--- blue wire on metra sub harness
Radio Shack part number: 271-1120 (1.5k 1/2 watt resistor)
http://www.radioshack.com/searchsku.asp?find=271-1120
This concept delays the turn on current coming from the HU just enough to make sure the audio signal reaches the sub first. This is a common problem with intergrating aftermarket head units with factory subs. I've used this solution with my Sport Track and my new 05 F-150.
ex: blue amp turn on from HU ---(resistor)--- blue wire on metra sub harness
Radio Shack part number: 271-1120 (1.5k 1/2 watt resistor)
http://www.radioshack.com/searchsku.asp?find=271-1120
This concept delays the turn on current coming from the HU just enough to make sure the audio signal reaches the sub first. This is a common problem with intergrating aftermarket head units with factory subs. I've used this solution with my Sport Track and my new 05 F-150.
Resistor worked exactly as stated, thanks for the info!!!
No more "POP!"
#15
Originally Posted by bh10673
This concept delays the turn on current coming from the HU just enough to make sure the audio signal reaches the sub first. This is a common problem with intergrating aftermarket head units with factory subs. I've used this solution with my Sport Track and my new 05 F-150.
on my way to Radio Shack now!!!!