I only just my notice yesterday, so you'll get yours soon.

 

Correct...moisture gets traps behind it and has apparently caused problems already...otherwise they wouldn't be spending money to remove it.

 

Ya Whatever,
It still needs a $5 plastic inner fender liner. Have you ever tried to get all the mud outa that area after a good mud run? Sheez it takes days!

 

ya tell me about it.I had to get underneath my truck with a hose and wash it all out before i took it to the dealer. Talk about a pain. i was soaking wet and covered in mud

 

I got my notice today and will be checking for the pad tomorrow.. From the looks of the photos posted the pad doesn't appear to be adhering very well to the metal leading me to believe that's the reason they're removing it. However, before knowing the pad was there I had planned to install dynamat or some other vibration dampening material on the inside of those outer panels just to dampen the resonance in them and hopefully quieting the ride some.. (I've installed R-Blox on every inside panel in the cab and it's made a huge difference). Tapping those bed panels sounds like an empty 55 gallon drum.. I'm sure theres alot or resonance going on just from road noise and vibration alone that could be dampened.

Would a better material like dynamat or R-Blox work in place of this pad without potentially causing rust problems?

Also as has been asked earlier, why's the factory pad only on one side?

Bryan

 

Well, there are two sides to the argument. The other being that more "complete" fender liners harbor all sorts of hidden nooks and crannies that are tough to get to that trap mud and dirt and can actually enhance rust problems.

Need proof, look at any '70-80's Chevy pickup/Blazer above the rear wheels. They were rust factories due to the fender liner design...

 

I did the recall on mine today. I have but one thing to say.

What a royal pain in the ***.

The patch on mine (which I originally thought I didn't have) adhered just fine. It also came off in little bits and pieces here and there. Took me two hours just to scrape all that crap off, then another hour or so to clean the adhesive off, all of which I didn't get. Prepping the surface after getting all that garbage off and applying the coating was easy, but my God, I couldn't feel my hands after spending all that time trying to pull that stuff off.

 

Quintin, What did you use to clean the adhesive off & where did you get the coating? Thanks.

 

SPC, I work at a Lincoln-Mercury dealer, so I did the recall myself using the official Ford kit. I used a flat blade scraper to remove the patch and as much of the adhesive as I could, which is the big PITA of the job, then very carefully (emphasis on very, since if you overheat the inside panel with a grinder, you'll see the results on the outside) used a combination of ScotchBrite pads and a brass brush with an air die grinder to remove the rest of the gunk, which I admittedly didn't get all of.

Ford sends a kit that has a rust stopper that's a highly dilluted form of acid to clean and prep the area, then the rust proofing sealant itself. Both come in little 6 ounce bottles, although the acid they only send like 3 ounces worth. The Motorcraft part number for this kit is PM-12-F. I'll be at the shop tomorrow installing my drop shackles, I'll take some pics of the kit when I get there.

 

Got the notice so I went out and had a look. The pad is there but ... My dealer threw in the three-way paint sealer, fabric treatment and undercoat. So, my butyl pad is covered in undercoat and unlike other undercoating jobs I've seen, they did a good job and sprayed very throughly all the way up into every nook and cranny. So the question is, do I schedule to have the pad removed and demand they reapply the undercoating to the bare spot or should I just say no thanks and not have it done because the whole unit is already sealed up without any apparent risk of having water get behind it?

What do you all think?

 

Im Not buying that excuse, my '04 SuperDuty has them and they work fine. Still loose enough to clean under and around them, why would the 150 quiet steel be much difference? Mabey it rusts out quicker...quietly,,LOL.
Im thinking its just another area for Ford to save a dime on a 30k truck.

 

Your '04 Superduty is new.

10 Years down the road if the fender liners haven't collected 20 lbs of dirt and caused swiss cheese like the GM's did, we can revive this thread.

You'll note that I said there are two sides to the argument. I didn't say one was better than the other. I never own vehicles long enough to worry about rust.

However, I have seen many vehicles (the aforementioned GM's, Toyotas to name two) where sealed wheel wells and double liners actually cause rust problems because the drain holes plug up, the dirt collects around the lips and stays wet and viola, 10 years down the road mucho rusto.

Like I said, look at any older GM or Toyota, you can't miss it, and you will NOT find a 70's-80's GM pickup or Blazer that either 1) doesn't have rust or 2) hasn't had rust repair above the rear wheels (which almost always looks like crap and doesn't work).

I like the open configuration of the F150 because there aren't hidden, inaccessible crannies for crap to collect.

I'll have to go look at my buddies F350 though, because I was not aware that the rear fender wheels were that different.

 

Did'nt the prior body style F150 have rear inner fender liners?
I will look up a 10 year old one and let you know.
I do agree with you on the old chevys tho, and understand what your pointing out.
Im considering making my own liners for my 150, Ill let you know how it goes.

 

Are all trucks effected by this?

I didn't even realize that my truck might have this until now.

I would go out and check my truck but I have a broken back so its kinda hard!

 

Looked under my truck today...doesnt look serious as far s the problem stated. Im going to bring it in shortly to have my takeoff shudder fixed and this recall. Might as well get it done now instead of wait until its too late and the dealership brings some sort of BS excuse of not fixing it.

Got my recall letter last week.