Well, my truck will be going in for it's first warranty fixes. The only problem is I have to wait until Feb. 22nd to get the truck in, as my dealer is backed up on work right now.

My truck has developed that annoying rattle from the rear window. It sounds like styrofoam rubbing together, very annoying. I am going to see if I can isolate it between now and then, maybe fix it myself. I am also going to get the PCM reflashed, as it is going to be there anyway. I plan on taking my Superchips off the truck, getting the reflash, and then purchasing the Xcalibrator with some tax return $$$. I got a buddy of mine that is going to buy the Superchips, so I am not going to be out much $$.

Two things, how long before I take the truck in should I take the tuner off? I haven't had the truck over 100MPH, so I don't think I will have to unhook the battery to clear the PCM, or should I? Is there any other way to tell if it has had the tuner?

Also, how do you get the PCM code off the sticker that they put on your truck from a reflash? I have seen some stickers that give this long part number, not the typical 3 letter and 1 number code. Should I just tell the dealer to make sure that a PCM reflash sticker is put on the truck? That shouls have the required information, correct? Thanks in advance!

 

Ability of Dealer to tell if you are using a tuner

all the info you need

 

Thanks jpdadeo...

Update on the rear window noise...
Well, as it turns out, I read the TSB for the rear window rattle. I noticed there are two parts two it, one for the slider, and another that has to do with the seal around the window on the outside of the body. I read that the nuts that hold the window in should only be torqued to 3 ft-lbs. So....I went out to the truck, and they were all much tighter than that. So I went ahead and loosened the nuts until just loose, then I tightened them until they were snug, approx 3 ft-lbs. I would guess. Took the truck down the road for a drive, and guess what, not more rattle. AS far as I could tell, it was mostly all gone, but I will wait till tomorrow when I go for a longer drive to work to see if it is gone. Plus the road are much bumpier going to work. I am glad that I was able to pinpoint the cause. I couldnt hear it at all today. So if it doesnt rattle anymore I am not going to take it to the dealer, or I may just tighten the nuts back up so it squeaks again and have them do the TSB anyway . Either way, as long as it doesnt rattle, I don't care. And if I don't take it over, I am not going to bother to get the reflash done, and I am going to take some of my tax return and get an Xcalibrator. If anyone else has the window squeak, try to retorque the nuts, that should work for you.

 

OK so Im just lazy tonight and dont feel like searching for that TSB. Can you post it or post a link to it please. Mine is driving me CRAZY and I just dont have any time to get it to the dealer. Thanks

 

TSB 04-20-3
* RATTLE OR SQUEAK FROM BACK GLASS - POWER SLIDING REAR WINDOW ONLY
Publication Date: September 30, 2004
FORD: 2004 F-150

This article supersedes TSB 04-02-6 to update the service procedure. ISSUE:

Some 2004 F-150 vehicles, equipped with power sliding rear window, may exhibit a rattle or squeak from the back glass while driving.

ACTION:

If the condition is a rattle or chatter noise from the rear of the cab, and usually occurs while driving over bumps refer to Procedure "A". If the condition is a squeak, chirp, or creaking noise refer to Procedure "B".

SERVICE PROCEDURE

PROCEDURE "A"

The condition may be due to excessive clearance between the center sliding glass and the back glass window runs. Replace the existing upper run channel with new channel (4L3Z-15422A36-AB), which contains a molded in center stop spring tensioner.

1. Remove upper run channel by pulling down and outward from the driver's side of the vehicle (Figure 1, view a). A small pick or a pair of needle nose pliers may be helpful.
2. Install the new upper run channel.
3. Open and close the center glass several times to ensure proper operation.

Figure 1 - Article 04-20-3 (Pictured automatically deleted on post)

PROCEDURE "B"

This condition may be due to the exterior trim molding around the outside of the back glass rubbing against the paint of the vehicle. The noise may be temporarily resolved by applying outward pressure on the back glass assembly.

1. Remove the back glass and trim molding assembly per Workshop Manual Section 501-00.
2. Remove any existing foam butyl tape from the back glass trim molding.
3. Clean the back glass trim molding with an alcohol-free cleaner.
4. Apply a thicker foam butyl tape (E69Z-19562-A), to the back glass trim molding edge starting at the bottom middle and working around. The tape will decrease the pressure of the trim molding against the painted surface.
5. Reinstall the back glass and torque the nuts to 4 N-m (35 lb-in).

 

LABOR OPERATION CLAIMING CHART
Operation Labor Description Application Time
042003A Replace The Upper Run Channel (Includes Time To Road Test) Super Cab
Super Crew 0.5 Hr.
0.5 Hr.

042003B Remove And Install The Rear Window Assembly (Includes Time To Road Test) Super Cab
Super Crew 3.1 Hrs.
3.3 Hrs.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
4L3Z-15422A36-AB Upper Window Channel
E69Z-19562-A Foam Tape

WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

DEALER CODING

BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
15422B30 33


Had to cut it into two posts or else it decided to be stupid and wouldnt post correctly.

 

My truck does the same sh*t.....

 

roboots21...thanks for posting the TSB, but im confused. You said you torqued your bolts to about 3 lb/ft when the TSB actually says 35 lb/ft. Did you just make a typo or did you really leave your nuts that loose?

 

hehe, read the post again....

35 lb-in = ~3 ft-lb

The more you tighten them, the more pressure you are going to put on the seal, which will cause more rubbing, and more noise! Sorry for the confusion!

 

LOL no problem, just wanted to make sure I do whatever you did to get rid of that god awfull noise!!

 

I only took the truck about a mile up the road after I checked the nuts, so I don't know for sure if it is gone, but it definately reduced greatly. I will know for sure tomorrow after my drive to work, I will post then and in the future if it comes back.

 

Well, it looks like I am going to have to go to the dealer after all. The truck started making noise again today on the ride home from work, but it is not as bad as before. Since my dealer is so far away, and my uncle runs a body shop, I am going to see if I can get the new molding and have my uncle put it in. Just saves me from leaving at the dealership and have some monkey prying around at my truck! Anyway, I need to find things out about it, if my uncle can't do it it's off to the dealer on the 22nd to have them look at it, say they have to order parts, wait two more weeks to go back and have it done, which I don't want to wait for. Ah, whatever though. I still love my truck!