I just installed a power window/door lock/keyless entry system from A1 electric on my '04 F-150 XL. The kit has MES door lock actuators and ArvinMeritor window slides & motors, just like OEM. Here are the part numbers from a1electric.com:

Windows:
FD82-K (Reg. cab & Supercrew)
FD83-K (Super Cab)

Window Switches: 4990-10-421

Door lock/keyless entry: W01-RF104

As far the switches go, I used A1 Electric's "Joker" style switches, placed them below the door handle, and covered the area below the door handle and the window crank with black contact paper (which looks just like the black plastic used everywhere else). It doesn't look too bad in my opinion, and the benefit of having power windows far outweighs that it may not look completely OEM, plus it increases the value of your truck. I hope to have some pictures soon.

Replacing the door panels with OEM panels from an XLT or FX4 was not an option for me, as new parts would run about $1,000, and used parts are scarce.

Total cost was about $400 for parts, wiring, etc. and about 8 hours of time. If you can remove your door panels and have the guts to splice into your truck's wiring (I have a wiring chart if you need it), then go for it. If you are timid about tearing apart your new truck, then this is not for you.

As far as mirrors go, I installed a set of XLT mirrors with the LED turn signals. The turn signals are now functional but the power mirrors are not, as wiring those in and finding a 4-way switch that doesn't look cheesy proved too difficult. The added benefit is that these mirrors can be folded in, so your truck can fit into tighter spaces.

As far as the debate as to why I just didn't buy an XLT, the answer is PRICE. A comparable XLT was at a $3,000 premium over the XL. And since this is my hobby, I like doing this kind of stuff. So far I've added a 6 CD stereo, power windows/locks, mirrors, wheels/tires, carpet (I know--REAL trucks shouldn't have carpet, but it looks nicer...), hitch, mostly OEM and bought off eBay for about $1,000.

I'll have some pictures by the end of the week.

 

hey silver! (or anyone who has installed the a1 power keyless entry.... How easy was the install? Is there a nice set of instructions with the kit? Well, I have installed a couple sound systems and had to decode the wiring harness for the stock sound system to install a rvs convertor for my amp.... would this be any harder?

 

Hi 04~4X4~XL ; just saw your post. This forum doesn't have auto alert.

We have very common rod door locks. Easy to do.
On the window switches, I cheated. Rather than put them on the door like others have, I mounted them one on each side of the lighter. Very easy to do,
Both seats can reach both switches. My vett' was like that, and I prefer it.
My pictures are in my gallery on the other big F150 forum. I use the same name. I also posted a LONG description of each mod I have done.
Chris

 

I installed a power window, remote door lock and alarm kit on my "98 XL a couple of years back. The kit was made by Autoloc. It even came with plugs and switches to place over the old hole left by the window crank. The window switches were also illuminated....very slick.

The installation turned out very nice. It took about 8 hours. I kept the truck for 4 years and never once had a problem with the windows or locks. If Autoloc still sells a kit....I would definitely check them out.

 

Hi KaNigIt;
I haven't installed the A1 unit, but I did install the Crimestoppers keyless entry with Tesor power door locks in my STX. I suspect the kits are about the same.
I also installed a Crimestoppers alarm and keyless entry with power door locks in my Tracker a couple of weeks ago.
The Tracker,made by Suzuki had a lot more steel in it, and was much harder to get the wires into the door. Ford does seem to save a lot of weight on the body panels...

If you are installing keyless entry and power door locks at the same time, it's pretty easy. The wiring is simple, getting the wires through the door jamb is more a matter of thinking it through. On my STX I just pulled the rubber boot the factory uses loose, and slipped the wires through, then pushed the boot back in place. Works fine for my power windows, and power door locks. No drilling.
I mounted the keyless entry module under the center junk tray. Velcroed it to the bottom of the tray. The radio surround comes out easily, as does the kick tray under the steering wheel. the fuse box cover pops off, and so does it's mate on the other side. Be sure to get some plastic wire sleeve. 1.09 for ten feet at Home Depot, or 7.00 for ten feet at Circut City.

You pass the wires over the steel structural members under the dash. Wire tye them to stop rattle.
Don't bother with any 'autolocking' locks, the ones that slave to each other. Just get good two wire units. Not the five wire. You won't use the other three wires.
The keyless entry will have autolock function when you turn the key on, and auto-unlock when you turn the key off.
If you have to lock them on the fly( someone gets out and you continue without shutting the key off,) just push your remote.
I added a relay and a cheap siren. I use that to make the 'chirp' lock, douple chirp unlock. I didn't want to cut into any factory harness. I also didn't bother to make my parking lights flash.
I find that more annoying than useful.
The siren chirp makes it sound like an alarm, effective without the hassle.
Hope this helps a little,
Chris

 

Whats so crazy about wanting to install power windows? I've thought about it myself. Oh and by the way, my STX has CARPET.

 

Unfortunately the instructions are generic, but you really don't need 'em--all you really need is the included wiring chart for the kit. You can find a wiring chart for your truck in this forum. The replacement window regulators are easy to bolt in, the door lock actuators require a little more attention, as the rod from the actuator has to be bent parallel to the car's original locking rod, and you need to drill a small hole in the door.

The wiring is the most difficult part of the install, especially on the driver's side, where you have to fish 3 sets of wires (15 total) through the boot in the driver's door. Also note that this kit is built assuming the fuse panel is on the driver's side, when it's actually on the passenger's side on the new F-150, so you'll need to lengthen the wires. Just like ChrisAdams, I mounted the keyless module and the lock relay in the center stack underneath the radio.

 

Am I the only guy on this forum that has a spool of fish line (cable snake)?

Best couple of bucks you will ever spend on anything...

 

Thanks guys! I think im gonna see how much it would cost me to get it professionally done anf if i have it then i will and if not i guess ill try it out for myself!

 

Sounds great, Kanegit, Good luck on the prices for install.
I decided to do it myself after priceing with a couple of local shops.
For the same brand parts, they wanted 260 bucks to put keyless entry and power door locks in my Reg Cab.
They wanted 500 bucks to put in SPAL power windows.
It cost me under 110 to put in both of those things, plus a couple afternoons work.
I admit I got off super cheap because the price on the Colibri kit was only 35 bucks and 10 shipping. (E-bay), but even at retail, it would only have been 139.

And you can buy the power door locks and keyless entry on E-bay all day long for 60 bucks.

So I paid myself the 650 bucks for the labor... about the amount I spent on my catback system, my Superchips and my K&N.
Chris

 

Hi Inbred, could you take a second and describe your cable snake please.
Always looking for better ways.

My problem on getting the wires through the STX door harness was lack of room to get your fingers in to route the wires. Kneeling on the concrete, working without being able to see my hands is harder for me than it once was.
On getting the wires through the door on the Tracker involved the machine being built to almost 'milspec'. Pull the drain plug on the one side of the jamb, open the inspection cover on the other, find a thick curving whole other sheet of steel inside. A double hull.
Drilling around corners at an angle, on slanted sheet metal. Heavy, painted, sheet metal.
Not like on the F-150, where you just punch it with a unibit if you need a hole.
Thanks,
Chris

 

Chris - is this the kit you have, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW ? If not would this work (in case you couldnt tell, I dont know much about power locks and such)?

 

Dang KaNigIt, That's not only the kit, it has the extra door locks that I got. It also happens to be the vendor I used. I've bought from him three times. Ships by mail, doesn't drag his feet. The power actuators were Tesor. And you don't use the autolocking module. I tried, and it was much wiring, little gain. So it's laying in my junk. You just use the big module that comes with the keyless.

I have had that kit on my STX for two months. So far I like it. I added a siren from another Crimestopper kit, using a relay. I can post the best site for relay information if you want. Or just tell you how to wire it. It ain't rocket science. That is, if you use the 'chirp'. I did, because when it's noisy out, you can't hear the doors lock.
I used the siren becase I didn't want to splice into the trucks wiring. I never broke it anywhere. No possible warrenty complaints...


I have since added a tailgate lock, using my own design, but you can buy them for 50-60 bucks. Handy if you have a soft tonneau or a fold-a-cover type like I do.
I have also added an unlocker on the Fold-a-Cover front panel, powered by the trunk button. Cost me less than ten bucks, and looks, works great.

Chris

 

Alright thanks for your help! I might be checking back in later if and when I attempt to install it! It seems like a great deal to me for $50!

 

hey 50 bucks sounds good but this seller also has a complete remote starter and keyless entry w/ door locks for 95 w/ shipping all together! that sounds like a good deal, you think this will work?