The "clunk" tsb only goes up to '04 trucks not '05s. My dealer will be happy to do some test drives when I'm ready for him to.

 

I would think that the TSB would still apply if it is the same problem and was not resolved at point of manufacture.

 

 

I just took my F150 to the dealer today for the exact same issue. Both my rear doors are so bad that the waves are now showing up on the lower portion of the doors. The dealer was not aware on any of this. Thanks to your posting, I have now sent the body shop the info. I really do not want to be the guiney pig. By the way, this really shows up bad on a black truck.
Thanks for the info.

 

I think it will be fixed.

There are a number of problems surfacing that point back to Ford nickling and diming

ie not enough grease on the slip yoke
undercharging the AC coolant (causing AC to not blow as cold)
among others.

I think Ford was thinking that the absolute minimum would work until warranty was up or enough time has passed whereby replacement/top-up would be considered wear items (ie AC recharge.. wait too long and they will say you emptied it)

 

That IS the question, isn't it? I'm sure my dealer will take care of it, if it becomes a problem.

 

Just wondering if you got this fixed? The TSB uses a mastic material to straighten out the back door below window waves on vehicles built before 11-12-03. Apparently, this condition was fixed at the factory by applying a rigged material to the affected areas inside the door. Cold weather caused improperly applied fixes to fall off, sometimes causing a noticeable rattle. The new material is approximately 6” X 13” and has mastic on one side and a thin, flat aluminum panel (I think) on the other.

The reason I’m concerned is that I took my F-150 in to have this fixed. I gave them the TSB number; they had never heard of it, so I was a bit skeptical to begin with. Anyhow, this was a Ford dealership that also had their own body shop, so I had some hope. Low and behold, they had my truck for three days. They gave me some B.S.; said they had to order another kit because there were two patches needed for each door (more B.S. there’s only one patch in a kit).

As you may have already guessed, they did not fix it. The same waves were still there. When I got home, I removed the rear door panel to see what they did or didn’t do. This is generally how the TSB reads:

There is a notice that THE MASTIC MATERIAL MAY HAVE FALLEN DOWN INTO THE DOOR. REMOVE ANY LOOSE PIECES FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR. (this is what may have caused the rattling)

The TSB calls for the removal of the old material by heating the door panel from the outside using an Infra-Red paint curing lamp (18") from the door sheet metal surface in the area of the mastic patch. Heat the door for 3-7 minutes at 180°F.

Remove the heated mastic material from inside the door using a wide putty knife.

Remove any loose mastic pieces from the bottom of the door.

Apply Motorcraft PM-12-A Low Temperature Anti-Corrosion Coating to the original location of the mastic material.

Another notice that THERE WILL BE A VISIBLE WITNESS MARK (UNPAINTED PORTION) INSIDE THE DOOR INDICATING THE LOCATION FOR THE NEW MASTIC MATERIAL.

Install Permacel Mastic Patch (4L3Z-18203A16-AA) over the original location of the mastic. Press the mastic patch thoroughly in place, especially on edges and corners.

Reinstall the door watershield.

Reinstall the door trim panel.

This is what I found:

What they did not do is remove the old material!!! Then they installed the Mastic Patch right over the old material and didn’t even remove the pieces that had fallen down into the door. At least they did not spray the anti-corrosion right over the old material. There was also a Permaceal patch at the bottom of the door. I’m not sure what this was, but it’s there.

I called back to the body shop manager to explain. I was careful not to pi$$ him off. I told him everything; but he played dumb. However, he did agree to order me two more kits and just give them to me. So, I picked them up yesterday.

My problem is I cannot remove the old material. I tried heating the door with a ceramic heater, but it would not budge. I tried mineral spirits; they wouldn’t cut it. Then I carefully applied some acetone to a rag and it did remove some small spots, but I’m reluctant to try to soak it.

That is my experience. Has anybody had this fixed? I think the patch will work if done properly, but I need to know for sure. Any help appreciated.

 

I also have this noise. Get it once or twice a day, the truck seems to be fine, but with such a loud noise I can't imagine that it's very good for it. I'll call my friendly service advisor on Monday and see what he says. This will be service visit number 6.

 

My question about the "waves" is whether or not they can be felt when you run your hand over the area of concern? How many "lines" are present? I'm just trying to figure out if I have the problem in the first place.

-Travis

 

I finally got to live this 'thunk' that was described within this post when I rented a 2004 SCAB the other day for work. The thunk was VERY defined and easy to feel.

Further, seeing some of the other problems that many have posted about including the tailgate support lengths being different was exceedingly interesting.

RP

 

i had the same problem after about 1000 miles, i pulled the rear differential apart and found nothing. ended up re adjusting the pinon which was way off, and problem solved,, i have since changed gear ratio's and lifted the truck(on 40's) and still rides nice.

 

I have also been experiencing the "Thunk" that you are talking about. On mine it usually only happens under partial throttle. Seems to me like it is slipping between 1st & 2nd gear, then banging into gear, then going into limp mode momentarily. Very unsettling. Took it to one dealership and they couldn't find anything, trying to get it into another dealership.

 

greasing the yoke is only a temp fix.. check your pinion angle!.
I went through this when mine started the infamous clunk, i pulled the rear down, checked the drive shaft, u- joints on and on
finally adjusted the pinion angle and problem solved, I have done this on several new F150 and all have not had a prblem since.

 

How do we reduce the pinion angle?

 

Is the tsb limited to the 4x4's? I have the same clunking on my 2wd and a slip to go along with it. It's not all the time, but it is noticable. I'm afraid I'm going to rip the tranny or backend out.

Thanks....TJ