I want to see what the opinions are on this board regarding waxing a newly painted truck. I know in the past the paint had to "cure" before you could wax it. Is that still the case? My truck was built last month so the paint is fairly new. Should I wait, or not worry about it?

Thoughts?

 

We used to say 30 days was enough. The newer paints cure much faster so I'd call it good. Use a polymer based finish (wax) and you don't have to worry. Nu Finish

 

Just go nuts. Meguiars NXT.

*waits for the Zaino troopers to march in*

 

I dont think there would be any problems. Just be really careful not to get ANY on the plastic trim pieces (Bed Rails, Mirrors, Around Windows, etc.). It will leave white swirls on the plastic that you cant get rid of. We have that problem and its really annoying to have a truck so shiny it will blind you then big white swirls on the trim pieces.

 

NXT is awesome man!

 

Never heard of the NXT, is it new? Any other opinions out there?

 

I second (or third) the Meguiar's NXT wax. It's sitting in my garage right now waiting for my '05 Lariat (currently on a train).

ALSO - before you wax - "clay" your truck first. This will get rid of rail dust (common on brand new vehicles) and other contaminants that washing leaves behind.

 

think I will do that, but I have heard you can damage your pant when claying. How hard is it. Any tips?

~Colby

 

Its easy, I clayed my Bullitt and then my 03 Cobra. I just got a n 04 Lariat and as soon as I get the time , I will clay it. Get a good quality clay, and mix up a solution of car wash soap and water in a squirty bottle. Spray the solution over a 1 foot sq area and rub the panel with the claybar. You will not damage the paint as long as your kep the paint wet with the soap. Fold over the clay bar regulary to give a new surface. Dispose of the clay if you drop it. Most bars are big enough so that you can break them into several pieces. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the info!

You own a Bullitt? What #? I owned 4711.

~Colby

 

How many passes over an area with the clay? are we supposed to look for a certain kind of texture? I heard someone else say 3 passes over one area.... thanks GG

 

Over a 1 to 2 square foot area, you just need a couple passes. You're really doing more by feel than anything - you'll know when its done. At first you'll feel the clay hit some rough spots. You'll know that area is done when the clay slides over it like glass.

You can use soap/water as a lubricant, but usually clay is sold as a set with its own "detailing spray" to use. I'd recommend this. Just remember to always keep the surface you're doing wet!

 

Hey Kamikaze!

As a general rule with today's modern catalyzed painting systems (baked), it's generally safe to wax them when you receive them. Plus, you must realize that a vehicle is typically in transit or at the lot a bare minimum of 2 weeks prior to a new owner pulling away with it.

That being said, you're more than safe to go ahead and wax. As has been mentioned, Meguiar's NXT Wax is a great one step product that will provide very good protection with a shine that is hard to beat. It's usually available at most 'Mart' style stores including Wally World and Targhetto.

As for clay, you've already received a bunch of very good information but, let me attempt to answer some of your questions on my own.

As for clay being 'hard' and potentially dangerous to your finish; yes, it can be if it's not done correctly. Let me elaborate. You see, clay works as an abrasive cleaning agent to remove items that are stuck on the surface of your paint. These items include tiny droplets of sap, over spray paint, tar, etc. The procedure for clay is to wash your vehicle as you usually would and then dry. Come back to your paint once everything is dry and run a clean, dry hand across it. Does it feel rough? Does it feel like squeaky clean glass?

If you feel glass, you don't need to clay but, I suspect you'll feel the rough texture. Enter clay.

To clay, as has been mentioned, you need to utilize a lubricating agent beneath the clay to avoid absolute friction between the paint and the clay bar. As long as you have good lubrication, generally speaking, you don't have much to worry about but, if you start getting into areas that aren't as lubricated, you do stand the risk of lightly marring the surface of your paint. In short, lube it good.

Another helpful tip with clay is to make sure that you rotate the face of the clay that you're working across the paint frequently. This will prevent the clay bar from 'loading' and ultimately help to protect your painted surface. Another thing, if you accidentally drop the clay bar on the ground, it's trash. Period. No exceptions. One tiny grain of sand in a clay bar can spell DISASTER for your paint. Don't risk it.

I drop a bar about once per year when detailing vehicles (I do it as a side line). A tip I learned a few years ago was to chop your clay bar into a couple of pieces. This way, when you drop it (because it will happen), you can toss one piece and not be extremely upset with yourself because you have a back up. Clay, you see, isn't cheap.

Meguiar's, again, makes a very nice clay kit called Quik Clay. This kit comes with a bar of quality clay and a bottle of Quik Detailer for lubrication. It is an excellent kit and, at $10, it's well worth it. You may be able to find this at your local Pep Boys, Kragen, Wal-Mart or AutoZone.

When making passes across your paint, notice how the clay bar is working. I'll often take a single finger and run it across the lubricated area to see how much I've taken off, if I'm done, or if I need to continue working. LET THE CLAY DO THE WORK. There isn't much need for much downward pressure. If you do apply an excessive amount, again, you can mare your paint.

I hope this has clarified the clay battle just a little bit. The key to taking care of any vehicle is in the procedure and then in the products. There are THOUSANDS of great products out there on the market that will yield killer results but, it's making sure that you use the right procedures when washing, drying, polishing, waxing, and detailing so that you don't cause scratches, swirls, and other below surface imperfections.

Feel free to ask any other questions that you may have.

RP

 

RockPick is my detailing hero.

Always so eloquent.

 

Wow! Thanks for such an in depth reply Rock! It is really appreciated. I'm heading out now to see what I can find between Wally World and Target. Have a good one!