Now Curmugeon, that is probably the most logical post I have ever seen on a site concerning the syn vs. dino debate - bar none.

Encore and accolades bro.

 

How does one change the filter and not the oil?
In the usual way just put the oil you drain back in? I guess you'd better have a clean drain pan...

 

The filter is usually above the level of oil in the sump. You will lose the oil in the filter itself, probably less than a half-quart, depending on the size of the filter, but not much more.

 

One of many routines employed by folks using synthetic oils is to change both the oil and filter at e.g. 7000-8000 miles and change the filter only at 3500-4000 miles. In that way, the half/full qt. that is added replenishes some of the exhausted additives and provides a new filter for 'first-pass' particle pickup of the old oil. This compromise approach is likely one of the better ideas for those who prefer extended syn oil changes.

 

Yes, you can use Mobil 1 or any other oil that meets Ford specs. However, do NOT go to extended change intervols as that does void your warranty. I've talked to dealers that have had Ford refuse claims due to this. So if you want to go synthetic for the better protection in low or high temps its great, but don't do it for long change intervols as if Ford finds any signs of problems caused by this you have NO warranty.

 

XCR, True, I agree, but we have a lot of people changing oil at 3500 - 4000 and Ford's numbers are 5000 - 7500. I would think that 6000 on Mobil 1 would be a nice compromise.

 

Well, lets see if I can disspell some of the myths posted here. Can you use M1 0w-20 and maintain your warranty? Yes, that product is approved for useage in FoMoCo products requiring the 153-H spec. Is it the best choice for your truck? Well, lets break it down and you make the call. HT/HS is directly related to bearing wear. M1 0W-20 is at 2.6. The absolute bottom of the range is 2.6 to make grade. The higher the number- the better. Engineers agree that 2.8 is the bar for "normal" engine wear. Does M1 contain less sulphurs and thereby produce less acids? No, it contains about 2400 ppm's of sulphur from the calcium and magn. sulphates used in the additive package. It will have a TAN (Total Acid Number) around 2.0. Most oils are at 0.5 or less. Less is better. Is it a pure PAO basestock? No, it has mineral binders for the additive package. NO synthetic PAO available is PURE. PAO basestocks do not naturally want to mix with the additive packages. This is why the mineral oils are used for the binder. Do PAO basestocks have any conflict with seals? Seals are designed to be in oil. PAO basestocks do nothing for the seals therefore the seals don't swell as designed . This is why ALL PAO basestocks also contain esters to swell the seals just like dino oils do. Synthetics are not "slicker" on any level but do have better pumpability rates( please, don't say flow as they are not the same), also provide better thermal protection against oxidation. They do not handle moisture as well as dinos so it is not for an engine that sees short trips or sits a lot. Because it has the pumping properties that it has, it does not provide a good residual coating on parts that have sat for awhile, like overnite in the cold. But it will get to the parts quicker in the cold than dinos. Are there better synthetics out there? Yes, Redline would be at the top of the list if money is no problem for you. It has an HT/HS rating of 3.3 and has proprietary additives to make it "stick" to parts. Most Blends will also out rank M1 in this viscosity range. Just because it has Mobil on the label doesn't mean it is as good as some of their other products. Just because you drive a Ford truck doesn't mean the Pinto is a great car. It's all relative. Best of luck to you with your rig.

Thanks to all for the courtesies extended to me, it's been fun. Later.

 

Well now, that would be enough said. The winner? It is my guess that labnerd knows best. Now, MR LABNERD, which is better, M1 or MC 5W20 Blend? Seriously, you now have my full respect when it come to this subject.

 

skiultr, I have a 4.6 in my personal truck and it gets either Motorcraft 5w-20 or Chevron Supreme in 5w-20. The MC will have the newer calcium sulphonates like M1 as a primary EP/AW agent.The Chevron as of the last VOA I did, had no calcium in it. It uses moly (MoDTC type, not the old disulphide) and boron as its EP/AW agents as well as ZDDP. Moly is a great barrier lube and when I can find the Chevron or if I'm in San Antonio I pick up several cases from the Chevron Distributor there. I would suggest looking for an oil that is low in magnesium as it promotes sludging and ash. Try to find the highest HT/HS rating as economically possible. Chevron and MC are both 2.85 according to the latest tech sheets. And change the oil per manufacturers recommendations or sooner. And if you just want to stick with the Mobil One, use their 5w-30 instead of the 0W-20. it usually shears back to a 20W anyway and then oxidizes back to a thin 30W. All of this occurs over about 5,000 miles so you are not "out of range" by much. The 5W-30 M1 is a good product if you need the properties of a synthetic. It may cost you 1-2 mpg at most. Hope this is the info you needed.

 

Labnerd, do you have any experience using or testin any AMSOIL oil? I was looking to get either their 5W-30 series 3000, or something along the lines of that oil, and just wondering if you have any experience with it. Thanks.

 

Yes sir. The value of Amsoil is dependent on how you intend to use it. I would suggest going with the full Amsoil package or not at all. It would be the bi-pass filter, oil filter and their oil. Amsoil is intended for extended oil changes and to reap the full benefits you will need all of the above. Their 7500 series is a Gp III dino that does not have near enough value in the bottle for the price. It's a good product, just that there are others available at half the price to do the same job. Their HDD is one of the top rated diesel oils on the market especially if going to extended oil changes. The rest of their product line is top quality as far as the components that they use. They are probably the most "picky" of what goes in the bottle than any blender out there. Msparks usually frequents this forum and is a distributor for them, might want to check with him for product and product info.