Well I got the the F-150 leveled up. Ordered new U bolts from the dealer and had the 2 inch riser blocks removed. The new bolts were 2 inches shorter than stock, so can go back to stock if I want to. The bolts cost $50.00 for a set of 4. Labor at dealer was one hour @ 58.00 and its done! The receiver draw bar dropped 3 inches. Boat trailer now sets lever like it do with the 00 truck. Davenport Spring Co. at Daveport, Ia. sold the bolts to my dealer. Dont see where it will harm anything by doing it. Its alittle easier to pickup something over the tailgate also.

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=3440

 

Do you have a 4x4 or 4x2?

EDIT, nevermind, I just saw your gallery pictures. Do you have new pictures yet?

 

The pictures are new and show the pickup lowered.

 

Look's kinda funny, like you have 1000 pounds of weight in the rear. Did you have to align your headlites again when finished?

 

It would seem to me you would lose two inches of spring travel and therefore would lose payload and trailer towing capacity by a substantial margain. Anyone have thoughts?

 

The spring rates and everything's the same. The bed is just a few inches lower. Now, if you put the load on and it would level the bed before, it's gonna make the bed appear low now, but the frame and everything else is the same position either way. I don't think it'll hurt anything at all..

 

IT appeare to me that removing 2 inches will bring the
frame 2 inches closer to the axle. less pay loal before
it bottoms out.

Just a thought.

Mike

 

I removed the cast iron spacers on my FX4 as well with no ill affects. I had the same problem with my trailer hitch being much higher than on my previous vehicle.

Also, I felt the seats were slanted to far forward with the rear end of the truck being so far up in the air. After removeing the blocks, the seating position was improved, but, I still wanted the front edge of the seat a bit higher. The solution was to remove the T-50 Torx head fasteners and install 3/4 hex head nuts under the seat brackets. This is a wonderful fix for those of us that have back problems.

In the future, I would like to lower the front and rear of the vehicle another two inches. Does anybody make good quality (heavy duty) longer shackles and lowering springs for the 2004 F150 yet?

 

Hey, good idea on the seat angle, HiOhSilver. I too think the seat sets to flat, should have ordered an elec. seat, but ordered in June and didn't have a change to try the seating. What did you do about the longer bolts after removing the lift shims?
The lift blocks also had a stop on them, after removal the bumper now will move down 2 inches and hit the axle. This lowering thing probably isn't for everyone but it works for me! Cheve and Dodge didn't think they had to set *** high either. JTFORD

 

I just pryed the seats up with a nail puller type of prybar to install the 3/4 hex head nuts (approx. .60 high) and used the original Torx fasteners. These appear to have plenty of thread engagement and did not compromise safety.

Try it you'll like it

I reused the longer U-bolts and installed six 1/2 hardened flat washers with the original nuts on each leg of the bolts. Torqued the nuts to 80 ft-lbs.

I will replace the U-bolts with the proper length (shorter) ones when I get a chance.

 

my thoughts exactly

WOLF

 

How about lowering it just one inch by replacing the block with something smaller? I am not sure what but I bet most welding shops could come up with something.

 

The travel is not reduced by removing the block.

The block has an arm or artificial axle extending from it that hits the rubber stop.

Anyone know if the shock may cause a problem?
It may not compress enough and the weight of the truck may end up on the shock mount.