Component Speakers
Originally posted by mxz600
what do you guys think about speakers that are two or even three way? and what ohms should the speaker be, 4 or 8? and also do 2 way or 3 way speakers have crossovers built in?
what do you guys think about speakers that are two or even three way? and what ohms should the speaker be, 4 or 8? and also do 2 way or 3 way speakers have crossovers built in?
You may want to ask this in the speaker forum on this site. You will get a lot more respones.
which lead is positive and which negative
LR+ GY/LB
RR+ OG/RD
RF+ WH/LG
RF- DG/OG
LF- LB/WH
LR- TN/YE
RR- BN/PK
Those are abbreviated colors if I confused you.
The biggest advantage to adding comps versus 2-way or 3-way speakers is the higher quality stuff is hard to find in the 5x7 or 6x8 configs. There is more speaker surface area on the coax's but CDT, MB, JL don't make them in that size so in that case comps are the way to go if your looking for high end car audio.
Yes 2 and 3 way have capacitors on them that make like cheap crossovers but they are not an additonal piece to mount like on comps. I,ve only ever seen 2 way 5x7 and 2 or 3 way 6x9's. If your dead set on getting 5x7's, Look into Diamond audio, they have a pretty nice set. So does Alpine tyrpe R. You will want to get 4 ohm setup with any midrange driver for a car. They usualy consist of 2 8 ohm speakers (mid & tweet) wired in parralel to get the 4 ohms. This makes the most of your power while still keeping it clean.
Good advice about mounting the crossovers in the cab. I was surprised that the Audiophile setup has the crossovers mounted to the plates in the doors with 5 1/4 mid and 1 inch soft domes. They are also completly filled with epoxy to keep the water out unlike aftermarket crossovers that come with the comps.
This is an oldie!
I like components in the front and then I put 2 or 3 ways in the rear for fill since the subs are back there too. Actually just tweeters in the back would probably be better since the subs are so loud, but I drive a Scab not Screw. The components in the front make a HUGE difference. I actually put the tweeters on top the grill and it looks good (like the look of aftermarket components) and they were too big (deep) to fit in the OEM holes. If you arent putting subs in the back a nice set of 3 ways or 2 would be fine, but I guess a Screw would be better with components in the rear too. Just my opinion. I dont drive with people in the back too often and from where I sit it sounds great.
I just ordered some Components that are too deep as well. I'm either planning to mount them on the grills like you did Eddy, or take the door panel off, and cut clearance in the sheetmetal.
Eddy, is your tweeter basket affixed to the removeable grill panel? Do you get any additional rattle with this?
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Eddy, is your tweeter basket affixed to the removeable grill panel? Do you get any additional rattle with this?
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The last thing I could EVER listen to again is rattle after owing a GMC Jimmy for 5 years (sounded like I loosened every bolt on the truck).
I currently have the tweeter basket mounted on the removable grill, but once I have the time I am going to cut a hole in the removable grill piece for a flush mount tweeter. I like the aftermarket speaker look so I am fine with that. There is absolutely no rattle with the mods I put in. I too put the crossovers under the power switches and to assure they dont rattle I sprayed a little high density foam on each side of the crossover, acting like an adhesive and killing all vibration possibilities. Plus I can break the foam loose if I ever had to pull them out.
About the wiring, say I did have the positive and negative leads flipped (you have me doubting myself now) wouldnt I notice it in the sound? Because the components sound great right now!
I currently have the tweeter basket mounted on the removable grill, but once I have the time I am going to cut a hole in the removable grill piece for a flush mount tweeter. I like the aftermarket speaker look so I am fine with that. There is absolutely no rattle with the mods I put in. I too put the crossovers under the power switches and to assure they dont rattle I sprayed a little high density foam on each side of the crossover, acting like an adhesive and killing all vibration possibilities. Plus I can break the foam loose if I ever had to pull them out.
About the wiring, say I did have the positive and negative leads flipped (you have me doubting myself now) wouldnt I notice it in the sound? Because the components sound great right now!
If you have the speaker leads backwards (reverse polarity), the speakers will kick in when they are supposed to kick out. Not a huge deal because the speaker is vibrating at the frequency it's producing, but you can notice some lowered quality on the lower end of the frequency spectrum.
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Last edited by IzInBloOm; Mar 18, 2004 at 08:54 AM.
I tried pleasing my self putting the comps in the doors but seems the nicer the setup, the more you notice the drivers speaker being bright at higher volumes. It's driving me crazy! Decided to mount em right.
They are still work in progress but wasn't that hard to do with any experiance in fiberglass. Got around 15 hours in them to this point.
There are more pics of them in my gallery.
Eddy, Having the leads backwards could have lots of different affects. Main one being the sound would be out of phase unless you got everyone backwards. E-mail me at steve@waterfowldecals.com and i'll get you the speaker wiring diagram. I'ts easier to understand.
They are still work in progress but wasn't that hard to do with any experiance in fiberglass. Got around 15 hours in them to this point.
There are more pics of them in my gallery.
Eddy, Having the leads backwards could have lots of different affects. Main one being the sound would be out of phase unless you got everyone backwards. E-mail me at steve@waterfowldecals.com and i'll get you the speaker wiring diagram. I'ts easier to understand.


