Speakers
#16
So I took a look around the under-seat area of my scab, and realized there is not as much room there as I thought. I think the only option for an Audiophile-type upgrade for non-audiophilers is the Kenwood box from Crutchfield that was listed above. I am thinking I may try that, but will mull on it for a while first. Any thoughts?
#17
Originally posted by Wolfman064
So I took a look around the under-seat area of my scab, and realized there is not as much room there as I thought. I think the only option for an Audiophile-type upgrade for non-audiophilers is the Kenwood box from Crutchfield that was listed above. I am thinking I may try that, but will mull on it for a while first. Any thoughts?
So I took a look around the under-seat area of my scab, and realized there is not as much room there as I thought. I think the only option for an Audiophile-type upgrade for non-audiophilers is the Kenwood box from Crutchfield that was listed above. I am thinking I may try that, but will mull on it for a while first. Any thoughts?
BTW - here's a source to get it for only $169
http://www.nowonsale.com/itempage.asp?item=KSCWA62RC
#18
http://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/2104
i found this website tonight, they show a box that will fit 2 10s or 2 8s under the rear seat. they look like they will fit pretty good. i emailed them asking for dimensions so hopefully they will get back to me.
i found this website tonight, they show a box that will fit 2 10s or 2 8s under the rear seat. they look like they will fit pretty good. i emailed them asking for dimensions so hopefully they will get back to me.
#19
I dont have my truck yet and were am at I'll find a camel befor a NEW F150. Can someone check if one or two of these infinity basslink will fit under the back seat of xlt scab? Please!
10" woofer and 10" passive radiator
Class D 200-watt amplifier
wired volume control with 16-foot cable
frequency response 20-120 Hz
low-pass crossover variable from 50-120 Hz at 12 dB per octave
speaker and line-level inputs
phase switch
bass boost adjusts from -6 dB to +3 dB at 40 Hz
25-amp fuse
auto turn-on with speaker-level inputs
remote turn-on lead (12V) required for use with RCA inputs
19' speaker-level input wires with plug-in harness included
14-1/2"W x 13-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D (vertical mount); 14-1/2"W x 9-1/2"H x 15-3/16"D (horizontal mount)
10" woofer and 10" passive radiator
Class D 200-watt amplifier
wired volume control with 16-foot cable
frequency response 20-120 Hz
low-pass crossover variable from 50-120 Hz at 12 dB per octave
speaker and line-level inputs
phase switch
bass boost adjusts from -6 dB to +3 dB at 40 Hz
25-amp fuse
auto turn-on with speaker-level inputs
remote turn-on lead (12V) required for use with RCA inputs
19' speaker-level input wires with plug-in harness included
14-1/2"W x 13-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D (vertical mount); 14-1/2"W x 9-1/2"H x 15-3/16"D (horizontal mount)
#20
Without modification, they wont fit. By my analysis (by no means should that be determinative), the maximum clearance you could get under the seat is about 6.5 inches. These infinitys need 9 inches+ to mount. That is why I feel the Kenwood is the only way to go.
Hey Red, is that site reliable? If so I will order
Hey Red, is that site reliable? If so I will order
#21
Originally posted by Wolfman064
Hey Red, is that site reliable? If so I will order
Hey Red, is that site reliable? If so I will order
The website looks professional and legit, but I recommend calling them directly and get a feel before you place your order.... and order over the phone. Here's the contact info on their website.
Ordering via fax, toll-free phone or mail
Phone:
866-NOWONSALE
866-669-6672
718-534-2810
Order with your credit card. You can always submit a dispute to recover your money for any purchase for as long as it is valid.
That's my recommendation as an internet retailer myself.
#22
[QUOTE]Originally posted by red04
Just do it and let us know!
BTW - here's a source to get it for only $169
http://www.nowonsale.com/itempage.asp?item=KSCWA62RC [/QUOTE
]
OK Red - I just ordered and will keep you posted!
Just do it and let us know!
BTW - here's a source to get it for only $169
http://www.nowonsale.com/itempage.asp?item=KSCWA62RC [/QUOTE
]
OK Red - I just ordered and will keep you posted!
#23
One last question, probably to Red but anyone else who can answer:
Do you know what wires in the harness going into the radio are for speakers and power/remote/ground? I am going to wire the sub harness from the radio and not try to patch it from the door speakers. If you dont know, any idea how I can find out without chopping all my wires?
Do you know what wires in the harness going into the radio are for speakers and power/remote/ground? I am going to wire the sub harness from the radio and not try to patch it from the door speakers. If you dont know, any idea how I can find out without chopping all my wires?
#24
Originally posted by Wolfman064
One last question, probably to Red but anyone else who can answer:
Do you know what wires in the harness going into the radio are for speakers and power/remote/ground? I am going to wire the sub harness from the radio and not try to patch it from the door speakers. If you dont know, any idea how I can find out without chopping all my wires?
One last question, probably to Red but anyone else who can answer:
Do you know what wires in the harness going into the radio are for speakers and power/remote/ground? I am going to wire the sub harness from the radio and not try to patch it from the door speakers. If you dont know, any idea how I can find out without chopping all my wires?
#25
ok, looks like im gonna have to get creative. If I cant have my two 10's in there than I need one 12", I wonder if this is possible. Once I get my truck I will start checking it out and will let you guys know..anyone have any info on the alpine IVAC801,CVA-1004,CVA-1003, CVA-1006 or the IVAD900? trying to decide which one
#26
I am getting ready to wire up a compact-sub system in my Lariat, but do not know how I can find which wires would be power /ground/remote behind the radio. I would rather tap into the wiring there than wire a switch or wire through the firewall. Does anyone know how to find out which ones are which? Most importantly, I need to figure out which one is the remote wire.
#27
WIRING YOUR NEW AFTERMARKET SUB
First, my strongest recommendation is to get a sub unit that has the auto-power-on feature. This eliminates the need to tap into the back of your radio.
With the auto-power-on feature, it is a simple 4-wire connection.
In any case, here's how I would wire mine:
1) Pull the driver's side carpet and find the cable tray that runs along the running board. It is the black tray that has a lot of wires.
2) Locate the thicker solid red wire (#18AWG)... this is constant power, but better yet, run your own fused from the battery.
3) Locate the wires that supply one of the door speakers in the rear door. It's easy to find this as this is inside the wire loom that runs upward to get to the flexrubber channel between the door and the cab.
4) Once you have constant power and the speaker signal, these are the main wires you need to connect your sub. Ground can be tapped from the body of the cab, but I would try to find an existing grounding bolt/screw so you don't need to drill a new hole.
5) In the event that you need a remote-turn-on, then you will need to run a single wire all the way to the back of the radio in your dashboard. Which wire? I don't know yet - but you can also just install a rocker switch (should the radio be not equipped with a remote power wire output) to turn the sub on-and-off manually.
Just my 2 cents.
First, my strongest recommendation is to get a sub unit that has the auto-power-on feature. This eliminates the need to tap into the back of your radio.
With the auto-power-on feature, it is a simple 4-wire connection.
In any case, here's how I would wire mine:
1) Pull the driver's side carpet and find the cable tray that runs along the running board. It is the black tray that has a lot of wires.
2) Locate the thicker solid red wire (#18AWG)... this is constant power, but better yet, run your own fused from the battery.
3) Locate the wires that supply one of the door speakers in the rear door. It's easy to find this as this is inside the wire loom that runs upward to get to the flexrubber channel between the door and the cab.
4) Once you have constant power and the speaker signal, these are the main wires you need to connect your sub. Ground can be tapped from the body of the cab, but I would try to find an existing grounding bolt/screw so you don't need to drill a new hole.
5) In the event that you need a remote-turn-on, then you will need to run a single wire all the way to the back of the radio in your dashboard. Which wire? I don't know yet - but you can also just install a rocker switch (should the radio be not equipped with a remote power wire output) to turn the sub on-and-off manually.
Just my 2 cents.
#28
At those dim's I know it won't fit. You've got a max of 7" depth under the back seat. That tapers off to 5.25" at the rear of the backseat. I'm trying to figure this all out myself. There's very little room under the backseat to hide a sub enclosure & amp. I've got some ideas, but I'm not sure anything bigger than an 8" sub will fit. Downfiring is an option for a 10", but I'm not sure that's gonna produce the sound I want. Unless something changes I'm gonna try to mount a solobaric 8" square sub in an enclosure with a 5 channel amp hopefully hidden under the backseat somewhere..........we'll see.
#29
#30
Would you care to tell how to remove the door panels?.....I've decided to sacrifice the passenger side backseat and build a .8 cu. ft. enclosure for the 10" Kenwood I already have. Gonna mount the amp in the center under backseat. There is NO room at all behind the rear seat. I'm gonna build a downfiring enclosure as well to go under the driver side backseat for an 8" sub just to see how it works......Looks like there's room underneath the stereo for the Sirius receiver. I'm gonna install my stereo, Sirius receiver, and install the sub & enclosure sometime next week. I'll mess with the door speakers later. The grills on the front doors look like there are seperate tweeters mounted above the mids......is this true?. What's in the rear doors?......2-way 5x7's?