Rusty Frozen Stuck Torsion Bar Key Victory
Rusty Frozen Stuck Torsion Bar Key Victory
Thought I'd share this for victims of stuck torsion bar keys.
2002 4X4 that has been in the salted road north it's entire life.
Pulling the transmission and the transfer case has to come out.
Saw how horribly rusted my torsion bars are at both ends and started PB Blaster application a couple weeks ago while I took care of another project. Started on this today. Removed the six bolts that attach the cross member to the frame. Tried my small air hammer. Ha ha ha. Tried my Bauer rotary hammer drill (set to hammer) with a blunted chisel drill tip. Ha ha ha. Went to my has yet to fail process for corroded fasteners. I put my propane torch on the key for ten minutes, applying it to any accessible point. After the heat I sprayed CRC Freeze Off into the key-to-bar mating surfaces. Picked up the Bauer and drove the key aft with ease. Repeated process successfully on the second key. The Bauer with a ground off chisel tip has been a useful tool and I recommend picking one up if you can. The heat and then Freeze Off has worked for me every time I've done it.(Plus the Freeze Off smells pretty good when it smokes off) After these are back together I intend to apply heat again and then hold a candle up to the keys so that the wax wicks into the mating surfaces and seals out any corrosion promoters. Thought I'd post this after reading about all of the fights with these. Good luck.
2002 4X4 that has been in the salted road north it's entire life.
Pulling the transmission and the transfer case has to come out.
Saw how horribly rusted my torsion bars are at both ends and started PB Blaster application a couple weeks ago while I took care of another project. Started on this today. Removed the six bolts that attach the cross member to the frame. Tried my small air hammer. Ha ha ha. Tried my Bauer rotary hammer drill (set to hammer) with a blunted chisel drill tip. Ha ha ha. Went to my has yet to fail process for corroded fasteners. I put my propane torch on the key for ten minutes, applying it to any accessible point. After the heat I sprayed CRC Freeze Off into the key-to-bar mating surfaces. Picked up the Bauer and drove the key aft with ease. Repeated process successfully on the second key. The Bauer with a ground off chisel tip has been a useful tool and I recommend picking one up if you can. The heat and then Freeze Off has worked for me every time I've done it.(Plus the Freeze Off smells pretty good when it smokes off) After these are back together I intend to apply heat again and then hold a candle up to the keys so that the wax wicks into the mating surfaces and seals out any corrosion promoters. Thought I'd post this after reading about all of the fights with these. Good luck.
[QUOTE=Roadie;5279363]Here is a video on removal of the transfer case.
I drilled the heads off of the sheet metal cross member so the more stout one could be moved further aft or even removed if desired. I'll put it back with bolts.
I drilled the heads off of the sheet metal cross member so the more stout one could be moved further aft or even removed if desired. I'll put it back with bolts.



