I pulled the driver door panel again today, everything looked good including wring so I reinstalled the door panel.
I took it for a drive and followed one persons directions on getting the driver door speaker to work again... with the radio On I spun the volume ****, just a little bit each way so I could hear the sound out of he passenger door speaker, back and forth over and over and over for about 3 minutes and during that time the driver door speaker popped on and worked just like it is supposed to.

Looks like I need to replace the radio which I had figured for a little while now.

 

Been watching YouTube vids on this radio issue. Looks like some folkes have purchased: DeoxIT D5 (see below) spray and were able to clean the contacts by spraying it into the area behind the volume **** and have many times fixed all their radio volume **** problems.
I am think of purchasing some of this off Amazon and try it out. I might even remove the radio, take it apart and try cleaning the Potentiometer more thoroughly with this stuff.
If this works for me then I will have saved from replacing the radio, if not, I will have learned something new.




or even this similar DeoxIT...

 

I would not use any of those. You want electrical contact cleaner that does NOT leave a residue.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-1...30-6/202262505

 

 

Electric cleaner vs Contact cleaner...

I ordered the:

CRC - 2140 Contact Cleaner 2000 Liquid Precision Cleaner

& the:

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner

I hope this stuff might clean what ever may need cleaned with a result of my Driver Door Speaker staying on all the time.& the Volume reacting to the Volume **** correctly, louder when I turn it louder, softer when I turn the Volume **** down.

On one of the YouTube vids I watched, where the circular contact area on the Potentiometer had a Burn Spot on it, the guy says if there is a burn spot the Potentiometer that it will need to be Replaced.

Does anyone know which "Exact Potentiometer" we would need for our stock radio?

 

I tried the contact cleaner.

The only change I noticed is that the volume **** now now spins Less Freely than before I used the contact cleaner.
The driver door speaker is still Rarely working, very seldom and when it does it just Pops On all of a sudden and it usually is after about a half hour of driving, IF the driver door speaker pops on and all.

I removed the faceplate of this OEM radio and on the backside of the faceplate there is a full sized green circuit board with Several very tine Allen Head screws holding it in place.
I went through All my allen tools sizes and did Not have the correct size for the allen heads. I was planning to take that circuit board off and re-solder every solder point to see if that might fix my intermittent driver door speaker issue. Unfortunately I could Not remove the circuit board.
I suspect that If I could remove that circuit board, solder re-solder every single oem solder spot, that the radio would work as it is supposed to.

Oh Well.

I am somewhat convinced the radio is the problem regarding the driver door speaker but, I don't know for sure and I cannot find anything online that specifically addresses my exact issue and the fix for it.
I need to see a few fixes that had the same problem before I trust that the radio is for sure the problem.

 

You still haven't ruled out the speaker itself. The connections to it may be good, but it may have an intermittent in the voice coil itself. The only way to rule this out is temporarily connect a different speaker and see what happens.

 

Yes, I don't know why I did Not think of this. I will do just that.

Thank You Sir.

 

UPDATE:

I R & R'd the stock radio with exact match used OEM radio from ebay. Mine was built in the year 2000, this one was built in 2002. The replacement radio seems to be working as it is supposed to... Yay.

The driver door speaker is Still Not working though.

I will try pulling the driver door speaker and plugging in a know working speaker to those wires as (glc) suggested. This will at least tell me if the speaker or the speaker wiring is the problem.
I have looked over the speaker wire harness on two separate occasions and it looks like brand new. I supposed there could be a wire break or burnt wire in the wire loom going from the door to the cab tough.

Its been one thing after another with this truck ever since I purchased it in July. Luckily nothing like internal engine or transmission problems..... Yet.

 

I removed both the Front driver and passenger door Panels today so that I could move the working passenger speaker over to the driver side, plug it into the driver door speaker wire to see if the speaker would work.
YES, the passenger door speaker Worked Correctly when plugged into the driver door speaker wiring Plug-in So... the drover door speaker is Inop. (no worky)

I am going to find a OEM used one on eBay and replace it. Thanks to glc for his persistence on reminding us things that should be checked First, In order of simplicity and no money thrown at unknown problem.

I had a little relief finding that it was only the speaker. I would not have enjoyed going through that whole wire loom system that is inside the door and running through the door into the cab!!

 

UPDATE:

1) I replaced the OEM stock radio with an Exact Match radio out of a working 2002 F150. Everything hooked right up. I did NOT have to program the replacement radio to the trucks system.

2) I purchased a pair of used OEM stock speakers on eBay, also out of a 2002 but different F150 that were Tested before sale. The speaker plugged right in and fit just as it supposed to and..... it Works!! and I have an extra working speaker on reserve if another one of the trucks speakers quits working.
I was quite surprised that the driver door Speaker was the problem because it looked perfect, no damage or anything that I could see.

It took about a month of researching, testing and then shopping to get this all fixed But, it only cost me $100 for all the used working parts.

Completed!

Thank You for All the Help!!

 

Now, just for grins - use a digital multimeter set on the lowest ohms scale and measure the resistance across the terminals on the good spare speaker. Car speakers are 4 ohm speakers, but that's impedance, not resistance. However, for the purpose of this test, just see what value you get. Now, do the same with the bad speaker. I'm betting it shows an open. If not, use your fingers to work the cone in and out and see what happens. There is probably a break in the voice coil winding that's intermittent.

 

Well... once I replaced the old non working speaker with the used working replacement speaker... I tossed the non working speaker in the garbage.

 

well you dont always have to stay stock i mean the speakers are from the 90's witch is what 22 years ago soon enough you will run into a common problem called foam rot and have to replace all the speakers

 

4 ohms nominal not the true impedence they can jump anywhere between when idle 4000 ohms and when played loud at 60hz all the way down to yes 4 ohms and everything in between all depends on output and frequency