5.4l 2 Valve - do Not use Anti-Seize on spark plug threads But... Why??

I would like to Learn here..... What is the "Explanation" for Not using Anti-Seize on the spark plug threads on these 2 Valve Engines???


Will the spark plugs loosen up Quicker on their own with anti-seize on the threads?

I have watched numerous YouTube vids on how to r&r spark plugs on the 2 valve engines - Many of the guys put Anti-Seize on the new spark plug threads before installation.

What is your personal experience, with or without anti-seize and how long after your r&r spark plugs until the next spark plug change? This would be Very Helpful!!!

Thank You

 

http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/

FAQ's #51 and #52


51. Q: Why do you prefer 28 foot lbs torque instead of the factory specification?
A: Over the past few years we have heard from many of our customers that they tightened their plugs to the correct torque but they still came loose. We worked with 10 other Ford Certified Master Mechanics and concluded that 28 foot lbs of torque would be satisfactory. We have been using 28 foot lbs of torque for many years and have never had one come loose or strip out. To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure.

52. Q: Do you use Anti-Seize when you install new spark plugs?
A: No, we always use Motorcraft nickel plated spark plugs to stop any issues with electrolysis.

I have been told that antiseize can cause incorrect torque readings.

Theoretically, spark plugs can last up to 100k miles, but I personally would change them around 60-80k.

 

I replaced the spark plugs in my 2002 at 119,000 miles. I used Motorcraft plugs bought at Advance Auto Parts. I could see that the barrels of the plugs were nickel coated but I'd bet my money that the threads did not have any nickel coating. I used anti-seize on the threads and tightened them using my calibrated arms/hands to maybe 28 ft lbs. So far, knock on wood, they haven't blown out and I've driven the truck about 44,000 miles since then. I'm a shadetree mechanic. So consider that when I post.
A professional mechanic doesn't want anything coming back and that is one reason to not put anti-seize. It helps make sure the plugs stay in.

 

If you don't use Anti Seize, you may not be able to remove the plugs when the next change comes around. Thus ANTI SEIZE. You have aluminum heads, they are very soft and you can get electrolysis which will seize up the plugs

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

If the plugs blow out after a professional mechanic installs them, that might be a comeback that the mechanic might not be able to charge for. Most owners will trade the truck before the plugs need replacement again and if the plugs take out the threads with the plugs when removed, it's not the mechanic's problem. However, I doubt that will happen. But, to each his own, I used anti-seize. I'm not making any recommendations either way. glc is correct in that the standard recommendation is to not use anti-seize.

 

I've had it go both ways with mechanics. I'll request it, and even pull a plug afterwards. No anti seize, back I go for him to put it on.

 

All I was doing is posting the recommendation of a Ford master tech who has a very successful side business repairing stripped threads from blown plugs.

 

Yeah, the Ford spark plug torque specification is 12 ft. lbs which is not enough and part of the reason they blow out. I think everybody agrees on increasing the spark plug torque.

glc, I'm sure all the forum members appreciate your input and the knowledge you share with us on an almost daily basis. I know I do.

 

Well Thanks. As with any bolts or nuts with Anti Seize, there are different Torque's for them. Dry Torque and Wet Torque. With Anti Seize, the Wet Torque is used, which is a higher torque as if the threads had oil on them. I've seen dry spark plugs peel out the threads in a set of aluminum heads before.. I'd never wish that on anyone! (Well maybe a couple of my Ex's! )