If you use the propane torch, be gentle. Also, you can try rapping it with a hammer preferrably when it is under tension.

 

Yeah, I actually tried hitting it with a hammer, under tension, and a little bit of propane torch too....

 

Using the correct stuff really helps, lol

Did remove the 2× 8mm bolts holding the fan shroud on, gave me a little more room. Also took off the radiator mounts with the 10mm - didn't remove them, just gave me a few inches of upward movement


Pitman arm off.

I did slightly bend the puller, but even if I never use it again, the $16 was worth it.

Used a lot of pb blaster, some hammer love taps, and slowly kept advancing the puller. Was going to keep advancing until something broke, either the puller or the pitman arm.

Didn't even need to bust out the torch

 

Going to pick up a mini grease gun in the morning. They are all greased, but a little more won't hurt.

Should I used Lucas Oil Green Heavy Duty or Red and Tacky? Both are NLGI #2 - already picked up a combo pack

 

What are you guys using to torque the pitman arm nut to box?

What size is it? And can I even get a socket and torque wrench up in there?

I think I read like 200 ft/lbs and a 33mm or a 1 5/16" socket?

 

ok, got the factory spec, for all the rod ends, it is 56-84 ft/lbs

for the box shaft, it is 173-233 ft/lbs

the idler arm bolt holes are 126-169 ft/lbs

the steering box bolts through the frame are 50-67 ft/lbs



on my right inner tre, I torqued it to 54, and was still way off the hole, I kept tightening it in 5 ft/lb increments until the next cotter pin hole aligned. I ended up @ 100 ft/lb! but I sure wasn't going back it off so....

 

Congratulations on getting the pitman arm off! I didn't think tapered joints needed much torque but maybe I'm wrong. Your front end should be solid when you finish. Did you count the number of turns when you unscrewed the tie rod ends? A good alignment will be in order when you finish.

 

Didn't count the number of turns. I got all new parts, and the sleeves are different widths than what are on there. But I am matching up the end to end measurement between the joint heads. The stuff I am replacing is actually all moog problem solver, I just think it wasn't maintained properly. I can tell my truck has had a hard life. Hell, @ 176k, I drive this thing like a 16 year old drives a new a Mustang his parents bought him....

I took a video of how much play was in the old pitman arm. It is insane, not only will the ball move if arm rotated but it can go up or down into the joint like 1/8"

 

Moog used to be the best. It may be now but I'm sure it's made in china like everything else.

 

Eh. Things go bad, so time will tell. I am going to drive it right now with the preloaded grease, and top off later.

Oh yeah, all done....

Although I do need to figure out how to tighten the pitman arm nut.....

 

Ok, So here is my Pitman arm nut special tool.

It's tight.

 

Drove around. No more seesaw death wobble. I do feel a little shimmy here and there, but I do have 35s, a truck, mismatched wheels that don't get rotated, probably out of balance, and I need an alignment. So.... 💯% better

Possibly time for a steering stabilizer....

 

glad its working out!!

 

me too! although, I did discover my left axle boots are torn to crap......

 

Replace the left axle. If the boots are torn, it's only a matter of time before the CV joints come apart.