1997 - 2003 F-150

5.4L 2V Intake Manifold (2001)

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Old Jun 10, 2019 | 12:58 PM
  #76  
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psst....while your there......you should go ahead and change your plugs...... don't forget the MASSIVE AMOUNTS of dielectric grease on the boots (to seal out WATER) upon reassembly..
 
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Old Jun 10, 2019 | 01:00 PM
  #77  
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Nah, they actually got changed less than 500 miles ago. Torqued down to 28 ft/lbs. Haha, it would be so easy right now though
 
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Old Jun 13, 2019 | 01:26 AM
  #78  
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ugh...... more issues.... had to order some more bolts.......

will update as I make some progress

also, I think I am going to cut the long hose that I am using as sheathing. If I understand you guys correctly, it is only in danger of rubbing the sharp edge right at the front of the galley right? if so I will trim that piece shorter to just cover that area
 
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Old Jun 14, 2019 | 10:17 AM
  #79  
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100% correct.....just to prevent chaffing the ACTUAL heater hose. Would also recommend using a piece on the OTHER hose...toward rear where you hose clamp the nipple in line. Also note to loosely zip tie hose together so they are not flopping around ...against each other
 
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Old Jun 16, 2019 | 02:00 AM
  #80  
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so........ getting there..... got the new bolts, the front right bolt is still too long and will need to be cut. the rest of the bolts are the correct length. HOWEVER, they are partial thread, so I am making them full thread....

the main 8 will be 45mm long. the OEM water neck bolts fit fine with no issues, and the front most shorter bolt on the passenger side will be back measured and cut down.

here is where I am @ so far, and a pic of my custom thread cutting tool, haha

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Old Jun 16, 2019 | 03:05 AM
  #81  
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Old Jun 22, 2019 | 03:22 PM
  #82  
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posting before I head downstairs, is the torque values in the manual correct for the manifold to the heads?

looks like 19 inch pounds on the first step and them 89 inch pounds for the second step? the same as the smaller bolts I did to combine the upper and lower manifold pieces?

I know that is what the book says, but I also know from the auto world, that sometimes the book is not correct

EDIT: so i found a spec later on in the manual that says 18"lbs and then 18 foot pounds..... got it.... putting in the coil packs, snapped a bolt.... joy..... going to get anotehr right now.... at least i got it out... ugh....
 
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Old Jun 22, 2019 | 05:17 PM
  #83  
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Little further




Yeah, I know the water neck has some surface rust in It. It is fine though 😉 haha, that rust didn't come from the aluminum...
 
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Old Jun 22, 2019 | 10:35 PM
  #84  
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got a new bolt and a washer for it from ACE. M5 x 0.8 x 25mm long

also picked up some tubing and an elbow to replace some of the rotted vacuum line
 
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Old Jun 24, 2019 | 12:00 AM
  #85  
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OH SNAP!!!!!! NO LEAKS SEEN ASOF RIGHT NOW!!!!

Drove it to the store and back, and filled up the gas tank after tossing in a 20 oz can of seafoam into the tank

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

https://i.imgur.com/mZNKVN4.mp4
 

Last edited by jimbo74; Jun 24, 2019 at 12:03 AM.
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Old Jun 24, 2019 | 10:30 AM
  #86  
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You should have used Techron, not Seafoam.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2019 | 10:42 AM
  #87  
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I did put 91 octane chevron gas into it. I think that has techron 😉
 
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Old Jun 24, 2019 | 05:02 PM
  #88  
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That it does. Avoid putting Seafoam in, it's too hard on the cats and doesn't do much for fuel injected engines. It's for carburetors and no converters.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2019 | 08:29 PM
  #89  
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good to know......

I may add some seafoam to the crankcase before I change my oil
 
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Old Jun 28, 2019 | 12:47 AM
  #90  
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I wouldn't do that either. If it's not sludged up you don't need it. If the engine is sludged up, do an AutoRX treatment.
 
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