ok, so I need help figuring out which replacement I may need to buy, not sure what the options are. Do I have a tow package? I don't even know. I do have a trailer hitch

I snapped the top nipple off my radiator on the driver's side. The one that goes into the coolant reservoir. It is maybe 3/8"


So here is my idea, I will drill the hole a little larger and try to thread in a barbed nipple.... it should work, and as I am going brass into plastic, I am either going to snap the plastic, or it will work and shouldn't leak,,,, what do you think?

otherwise, it is a new radiator, or pick-n-pull time.....

like this:

brass hose fitting, adapter, 3/8" barb x 1/4" NPT male pipe

 

That would be a good temporary fix.

It certainly wouldn't hurt to put a bigger radiator in.

 

I have no idea where to start looking, or what I need/don't need. Been looking on amazon and ebay already, but have no idea, or does it matter? 1 row, 2 row, tow pacakge? etc...

I do have a trailer hitch, automatic trans, stock gearing was a 3.55 with limited slip. 5.4l, 2001, 4x4, xlt.



should I get a 1/4" NPT tap and do it that way? or just use the threads to cut the plastic?

 

I would get a 1/4" NPT and tap it. Then use some 2-part epoxy.

 

if I thread it, where is the epoxy going to go?

about to go on amazon and order a tap and some jb weld

 

I don't remember what year your truck is, but I bought a new 2000 5.4 Scab 4x4 with tow package and it had the same radiator that the trucks without the tow package. And since Ford advertised that it had additional cooling capability with the tow package and it didn't Ford came out with an offer of a 7700 radiator to replace the 6600 radiator, $100 cash, or $500 credit for a tradein. I chose the 7700 radiator. So, evidently the 7700 radiator is a fit. I don't know what the difference is as in how many rows or whatever is. I was working in Oswego, NY at the time and the heater would burn my right foot with the OE radiator and it wasn't quite as hot with the 7700 radiator.

 

After you snug the barbed adapter on. Mix up your 2 part, and put some around where you screwed it in. Just an added layer of protection.

 

Already done 😉
I used jb quik

 

That works! Matches to boot.

 

My hands are all stinky from the jb qwik

anyways, says it fully cures in 6 hours. It is already hard.

I used non-chlorinated brake clean before the jb to clean the area and promite the epoxy to stick, especially since I can't access around it very well. The epoxy is all the way around the base of the nut part.

worked slow drilling it out, the material is thin walled, and is right on the edge of the tank, it has to be straight, or I might have busted out the side.


hopefully this works!


so the spectre cai, sucks. I have had to make too many improvisations to it. And the tubes wont allow the triton plastic cover to go back on. I would not recommend it. The k&n is bolt in (my neighbor has one, the tube is nice. Although he doesn't have a heat shield, but I don't know if it comes with one or not, as his po put it on

 

I had a Spectre CAI years ago and I ended up putting the stock intake back on because the Spectre kept coming apart.

Look at the Summit Racing CAI

https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/sum-f1140

It's a K&N intake sold as Summit Racing brand for over $100 less.

 

Mine is legit now, I basically rebuilt it... I can't use the Triton cover though as I had to reroute some of the emissions lines. I had to cut a plastic line, and spliced in rubber hose. And... the pupe seems like it isn't bent enough, and the coupler was 4" and not 3.5" so I had to order a coupler off amazon.

 

That fix should last a long time. It's not under pressure, and that JB stuff should seal up nicely. Much cheaper than a radiator! The only thing I may have done was use a step bit instead of a twist bit to help reduce the chance of it grabbing and tearing/cracking the plastic, but it looks like it worked well for you. Good job!